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		<title>Electrician Talk - Professional Electrical Contractors Forum - Residential Electrical Forum</title>
		<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com</link>
		<description>For topics that are specific to residential electrical work</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:03:34 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Electrician Talk - Professional Electrical Contractors Forum - Residential Electrical Forum</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Help please...thx you!</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/help-please-thx-you-10044/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:50:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hello... i have a 6x10 mobile shed for shave ice business, and i am connecting a (small) AC unit, 5 cubic freezer, small water pump (for fresh water...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hello... i have a 6x10 mobile shed for shave ice business, and i am connecting a (small) AC unit, 5 cubic freezer, small water pump (for fresh water tank), ice shaving machine, interior lights, 6+ gallon water heater... My friend has the same unit with all the same equipment running to a breaker box that runs everything to a generator...but he also is able to run a three prung 30 amp 120v rv cord to a building to run everything if he doesn't have his generator with him from time to time... My question is how does he have all of his equipment wired at the breaker box so he is able to run his equipment from a cord to a building if he doesn't have his generator with him to run his equipment? How is all six pieces of equipment wired to breaker box then from there how can he run one cord if need be to a building/outlet and run everything without blowing a fuse or fuses? Can someone help please! Is there a drawing or diagram/schematic? hope you understand my question? thanks Adrien</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>iusetodream</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/help-please-thx-you-10044/</guid>
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			<title>cost as a % of total</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/cost-total-10032/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:15:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Does anyone have any info on what the electrical cost would be on a new house, as a percentage of the total build cost? not including land.  Just...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone have any info on what the electrical cost would be on a new house, as a percentage of the total build cost? not including land.  Just curious, I usually find myself 3-5% when I can get the costs from builders.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Doug</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>doug1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/cost-total-10032/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Removing an old box.</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/removing-old-box-10026/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:49:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am looking for any hints on how to remove a single gang metal box. This one is the type from early 60's that was face nailed onto 2x4 with the flat...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am looking for any hints on how to remove a single gang metal box. This one is the type from early 60's that was face nailed onto 2x4 with the flat plate. I need to turn this box into a 2 gang box in the bedroom to add a 3 way switch for hall that original electricians did not put in. then house has plastered walls and i'm afraid trying to cut bracket off with a sawzall will break out then plaster. Any hints or suggestion?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>boots 211</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/removing-old-box-10026/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Illuminated light switch damages ballast</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/illuminated-light-switch-damages-ballast-10018/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:05:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Something to watch out for concerning fluorescent lighting. 
 
I've had to replace a ballast twice in a customers ceiling fixture.  The first one...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Something to watch out for concerning fluorescent lighting.<br />
<br />
I've had to replace a ballast twice in a customers ceiling fixture.  The first one lasted less than 2 years and the second one failed in less than a month.<br />
The ballast is special order so until the replacement arrives I installed a lamp holder in it's place.<br />
I put a CFL in the lamp holder and noticed it began flashing intermittently.<br />
I learned the customer had illuminated light switches installed a few months prior to the first ballast failure.<br />
I've read about the stray voltage issue before with these type of switches but never heard of them causing damage.<br />
<br />
Has anyone had similar problems?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Unclkracker</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/illuminated-light-switch-damages-ballast-10018/</guid>
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			<title>Wall Oven amp load question</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/wall-oven-amp-load-question-9993/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:52:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I need to replace my wall oven.  It is running on a 4 wire 220V with a 40 amp breaker (2 20amps - double pole).  THe new wall oven I am looking at is...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need to replace my wall oven.  It is running on a 4 wire 220V with a 40 amp breaker (2 20amps - double pole).  THe new wall oven I am looking at is a 220v but has a max amp load of 20 amps.  Am i going to need to have the 40 amp breaker replaced with a 20 amp breaker(2 10 amps - double pole) ?  I'm a home improvement guy and handle basic electrical and will get an electrician to do this but just wanted some background info - Thansk. Jim</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>205bhamjim</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/wall-oven-amp-load-question-9993/</guid>
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			<title>wire ties in a panel</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/wire-ties-panel-9990/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:49:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i was told by our electrical inspector that i sould not put wire ties on the wire in my panels due to it causes heat to the wires. i do it cause it...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i was told by our electrical inspector that i sould not put wire ties on the wire in my panels due to it causes heat to the wires. i do it cause it makes the wires neet and i know the next time i go in what i put in and what someone else put into my panel. but a few wire ties on wires CAN THIS BE THAT BIG OF A DEAL come on. or might it be that they need to make me feel bad and they feel good about getting 65 bucks form me.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>mavajo3</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/wire-ties-panel-9990/</guid>
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			<title>Found this on craigslist today</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/found-craigslist-today-9981/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:55:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*Electrician wanted to label house panel (Mandeville, La)* 
 
Date: 2009-11-16, 7:46AM CST 
Reply to: job-atqgr-1468012939@craigslist.org  
 
 
 
I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>Electrician wanted to label house panel (Mandeville, La)</b><br />
<br />
Date: 2009-11-16, 7:46AM CST<br />
Reply to: <font color="#0000ff">job-atqgr-1468012939@craigslist.org</font> <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I have a 42 space panel that needs to be relabeled correctly. I am looking for an electrician that can efficiently and correctly label the panel for me. <br />
<ul><li>Location: Mandeville, La</li>
<li>Compensation: $40</li>
<li>Principals only. Recruiters, please don't contact this job poster.</li>
<li>Please, no phone calls about this job!</li>
<li>Please do not contact job poster about other services, products or commercial interests.</li>
</ul>PostingID: 1468012939</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>ryanapplequist</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/found-craigslist-today-9981/</guid>
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			<title>help transister problem</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/help-transister-problem-9975/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 20:00:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>please please please can anyone help me i have a hoover washing machine and a transister has gone on the pcb:mad: it is the one that controles the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>please please please can anyone help me i have a hoover washing machine and a transister has gone on the pcb:mad: it is the one that controles the pump and it has on it z0607 ma gx543 i cant find where i can get one from .plenty of data sheets but that is it . it dose seem that we live in a throw away world now thanks very much please help keep the hoover dream alive :)dave 07533400791</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>d.vince</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/help-transister-problem-9975/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Wine fridge and ejector pump on same circuit?</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/wine-fridge-ejector-pump-same-circuit-9973/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:19:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Anyone see anything wrong with putting a 3/10HP sink ejector pump on the same 20 amp circuit as a wine fridge in a finished basement bar?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Anyone see anything wrong with putting a 3/10HP sink ejector pump on the same 20 amp circuit as a wine fridge in a finished basement bar?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Mr. Sparkle</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/wine-fridge-ejector-pump-same-circuit-9973/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>existing panel location</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/existing-panel-location-9971/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:19:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i added a two pole circuit to an existing panel that was located in a bathroom. The inspector says that now i have to relocate the electrical panel...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i added a two pole circuit to an existing panel that was located in a bathroom. The inspector says that now i have to relocate the electrical panel since i added an overcurrent device. If the panel is existing then why do i have to move it?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>cle</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/existing-panel-location-9971/</guid>
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			<title>old timer rule of thumb for bids</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/old-timer-rule-thumb-bids-9935/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:19:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i have benn running my business for 5 yrs and just had a gentleman that has retired but did electric work for 30yrs and he told me that a good quick...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i have benn running my business for 5 yrs and just had a gentleman that has retired but did electric work for 30yrs and he told me that a good quick rule of thumb to do a quick bid is: for every opening (switch, light, recept) you charge $35. that includes wire, labor parts. Is this price out dated or is it close.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>mavajo3</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/old-timer-rule-thumb-bids-9935/</guid>
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			<title>A Base meter socket connections</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/base-meter-socket-connections-9932/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:50:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i have a A base meter and like all good electricans i yanked out the wires and do not know which screws are line or load. there is the meter and 4...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i have a A base meter and like all good electricans i yanked out the wires and do not know which screws are line or load. there is the meter and 4 screws at the bottom of the meter which screws are load and which ones are line?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>mavajo3</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/base-meter-socket-connections-9932/</guid>
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			<title>Generators for Dummies</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/generators-dummies-9930/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 20:58:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>A customer wants to buy a portable generator for the occasional New England winter week-long power outage. There are loads in the 200-amp main...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>A customer wants to buy a portable generator for the occasional New England winter week-long power outage. There are loads in the 200-amp main panelboard, as well as in two sub-panels, one of which is in a detached office/garage, that will need to be fed. The house is high-end, and they run their business out of this office.<br />
<br />
The customer does not want a pad-mounted generator or an automatic transfer switch, because they don't feel the odds of losing power justify the cost. A portable generator would have to be wheeled out of the garage and parked near the house, maybe 60' and a snowbank or two away. She claims to be OK with the idea of managing loads. Meanwhile, she and her husband are in their 60's, and not mechanically inclined.<br />
<br />
Couple of questions:<br />
<br />
I'm going to price out a permanent, automatic system for them, anyway, and try to gently make the argument. If they insist on portable, I assume they'll need as big a generator as they can heft. Although I've installed my share of Gentran sub-panels and inlets, I've never been called upon to recommend a particular generator, until now. What's the most powerful portable that can be schlepped around by mere mortals?<br />
<br />
Since the loads to be served are spread around in these three panels, I would install a transfer switch at the main. Has anyone used those Interlockkit kits? I've seen them, and poked around the website. I see they're not actually UL listed, which gives me pause. Naturally, I'd call the AHJ. But, I'm wondering what people's experience with them has been.<br />
<br />
Are there alternatives that accomplish the same thing?<br />
<br />
If the generator stays near the garage, and I make them a honking extension cord to feed the house, how do I size the cord? 60-70' from the generator in, but do you account for the distance of the feeders from the panel back out, say to the garage?<br />
<br />
Thanks for ideas...</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>WMA</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/generators-dummies-9930/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>If meter goes slower...are you paying less?</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/if-meter-goes-slower-you-paying-less-9922/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 02:57:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Do you believe, or not , that if your electric meter goes slower,at times, than at other times, you are paying LESS money, at the times the meter is...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Do you believe, or not , that if your electric meter goes slower,at times, than at other times, you are paying LESS money, at the times the meter is SLOWER?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>RIVETER</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/if-meter-goes-slower-you-paying-less-9922/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Plunbers worth more?</title>
			<link>http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/plunbers-worth-more-9916/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 23:02:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello 
 
New to this site, found it when looking for cost info.  This all started when one of our builders started to question our rates.  I have...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello<br />
<br />
New to this site, found it when looking for cost info.  This all started when one of our builders started to question our rates.  I have always considered the plumbers, HVAC and us Electricians to be similar in the fact that we all have to carry licenses (in residential work), I know for sure the HVAC contractors are registered with a governing body and so are we, not sure about the plumbers.  I checked with the other trades to see what there rates were, when I asked the plumber he was at $65., I'm at $60, the plumber told me I was expensive and should be at $50.  The HVAC contractor is $55.  Do others find that the plumbers are 30% higher in their areas?  I know we're worth more but I'm biased. <br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Doug</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/">Residential Electrical Forum</category>
			<dc:creator>doug1</dc:creator>
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