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Old 08-28-2009, 06:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by MDShunk View Post
You doing the uf in the conduit the whole way or just in the slab? Just wondering.
Just PVC sleeves at both ends. It's DB twixt and tween. If I was going the pipe it the whole way, I'd use THHN/THWN. But that's more labor to get into the panel and the HO is hanging on to every nickel.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:22 PM   #22
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Just PVC sleeves at both ends. It's DB twixt and tween. If I was going the pipe it the whole way, I'd use THHN/THWN. But that's more labor to get into the panel and the HO is hanging on to every nickel.
I see. I guessed you were using up the end of a roll of UF. I guessed wrong.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:28 PM   #23
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Just say no to UF.

Wire doesn't always last forever. Stuff happens.

I don't think that PVC/THHW is much (any?) more expensive and it is a superior method.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:30 PM   #24
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I see. I guessed you were using up the end of a roll of UF. I guessed wrong.
Another problem with trying to pipe all the way to the house panel is the relationship between the meter and the panel. You can see the shadow of the meter socket in the photo. The panel is higher than the meter, and the wall is finished inside. To pipe it, I would either have to run the pipe inside the wall to the panel or cut a box into the drywall, terminate the pipe there, and convert to NM.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:51 PM   #25
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I dont see what the big deal is with Kens code compliant install...

I personally have never bought UF in my life, but to each his own.

~Matt
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:51 PM   #26
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that looks like some pretty good Iowa black dirt, how far to the cornfield
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:02 PM   #27
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I dont see what the big deal is with Kens code compliant install...

I personally have never bought UF in my life, but to each his own.

~Matt
There is no big deal to be had with Ken's job.. it works and the customer got what he paid for.

Put (10) EC in a room with a set of plans and you will get (15) ways of doing the job.

We don't have cookie cutter ways of doing a job.

Everyone here has their own "style" of engineering the job and making money doing it
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:10 PM   #28
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There is no big deal to be had with Ken's job.. it works and the customer got what he paid for.

Put (10) EC in a room with a set of plans and you will get (15) ways of doing the job.

We don't have cookie cutter ways of doing a job.

Everyone here has their own "style" of engineering the job and making money doing it
I know everyone has their own code compliant way of doing things... but you were the one calling it hack work if it isnt sleeved in pvc.

~Matt
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:14 PM   #29
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..............Put (10) EC in a room with a set of plans and you will get (15) ways of doing the job..........
Shoot, we do that every day right here on THE forum!
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:25 PM   #30
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I know everyone has their own code compliant way of doing things... but you were the one calling it hack work if it isnt sleeved in pvc.

~Matt
Your right I did.. I also said IMO, which we all give here like it or not

I should also add that here on Long Island, I would have a big pile of rocks left over from digging the trench.

Rocks are the arch enemy to UF other than a Landscaper digging a hole for a tree.

Ken could plant corn in his and have room left over for tomato plants

I am not calling the TOOL a hack.. that is far from my point!!!!!
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Old 08-28-2009, 07:32 PM   #31
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To pipe it, I would either have to run the pipe inside the wall to the panel or cut a box into the drywall, terminate the pipe there, and convert to NM.
Why not use romex inside and mount a pvc box on the outside where you can change over to pipe instead of mounting a box inside just mount it outside.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:02 PM   #32
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They must not be putting much in that garage,,,,If they were, you'd never meet the requirements of 225.39 (d) with that 10/3 you got there.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:05 PM   #33
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Why not use romex inside and mount a pvc box on the outside where you can change over to pipe instead of mounting a box inside just mount it outside.
That would look like hack work.

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Originally Posted by mcclary's electrical View Post
They must not be putting much in that garage,,,,If they were, you'd never meet the requirements of 225.39 (d) with that 10/3 you got there.
There's going to be a 100a panel installed, with 30a breakers at both ends. There's only going to be 2 duplexes, two lights and a door operator. That will meet your code requirement.







I've decided to return tomorrow and replace that goofy UF with a new product I'm marketing.

I call it SupeRaceway.
Put this stuff in the ground, and you will NEVER have problems.





1. Interior raceway. Connected to temperature and humidity controls at both terminations for total climate control. Lined with billions of micro-ball bearings, so there's no need for pull soap. No tugger needed either as the bearings are made to last millenium and you can easily push any combination of conductors through the raceway by yourself regardless of the length installed.

2. Galvanized steel lining. Used for physical strength.

3. Cast-iron sleeve impregnated with solid lead. Preferred for radiation protection.

4. Solid PVC section. For water-proofing.

5. Micro-circuit breach detection system. Multiple small conductors connected to short-circuit sensors at both terminals detect a physical breach in the SupeRaceway and initiate a local alarm.

6. Electronic vibration sensors. Detects approach of digging machinery and initiates local alarm as above.

7. Diamond-impregnated layer. To protect SupeRaceway from digging equipment.

8. Multi-sectioned moisture removal layer. Multiple sections isolated from each other are connected to pumps and vacuums to remove any moisture and protect the interior of the SupeRaceway.

9. Cross-linked titanium steel. Physical protection.

10. Gold-pressed latinum. Star Trek TNG technology. Needs no explanation.

11. Dilithium crystals. Also Star Trek technology. Included because it’s so damn cool-sounding.

12. Steel-belted rubber. Same construction as automobile tires. For superior life of SupeRaceway.
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Last edited by 480sparky; 08-28-2009 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:18 PM   #34
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Are you using a 30 in the house feeding a 100 amp panel? That's a good way to meet the requirement
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:19 PM   #35
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Are you using a 30 in the house feeding a 100 amp panel? That's a good way to meet the requirement
Yes. I just edited my response. A DP 30 at both ends.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:21 PM   #36
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Thanks alot Ken,, by the time I replied, you edited yours! Now it looks like I can't read
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:32 PM   #37
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Yes. I just edited my response. A DP 30 at both ends.
So, you are satisfying 225.39(B), then?
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:37 PM   #38
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So, you are satisfying 225.39(B), then?
It doesn't apply. There's only one circuit.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:44 PM   #39
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It doesn't apply. There's only one circuit.
Isn't this a feeder? You are going from the house to a 100 A panel, then to a single branch circuit. The wording of 225.39 seems a little ambiguous as to what the disconnecting means needs to be rated by. Does 225.39(A) mean a single branch circuit from the subpanel, or a single branch circuit from the house? Seriously, I could read it either way.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:47 PM   #40
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That would look like hack work.

I would have to disagree and say that the opposite way would look like hack work. Either way is legal tender, but your's is of utmost hackery.
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