Jlarson

I'd break the little stoppers. Something that's gonna ride in my truck boxes, get tossed in a lift and on my cart shouldn't have small movable pieces

And it's stupid/mildly ******ed above all else

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HARRY304E

I wonder how long it would take to lose it....

"Hey what are you doing?" I'm walking around looking for my 3/4" marking thing , Have you seen it.?

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East Coast Paul

the lead size in a drafting pencil is 2mm
for drafting i used 2H and a pack of 20 leads lasted me about 2 years, HB not nearly as long.

mechanical pencils like that shown are completely different, they come in .3, .5, .7, and .9 mm sizes.

Big John

I thought about getting that for guys guys who are learning pipe bending. It seems like it'd be faster until you realize it's a handicap: They won't ever know how to use a real bender.

-John

Wirenuting

That looks like it takes longer then just doing it normal.

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480sparky

That's my thinking..... by the time this dude was using his fancy thingamabob putting all those marks around the pipe, I'd have the thing bent, installed and beat feet to the next stick.

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freeagnt54

The only time you bend on the ground is for 90s.

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dirtyfrank

I have a 3/4 rack a tiers bender and I have no problems with it. Perfect saddles, and offsets every time...whether you use the simplified multipliers or the traditional ones. Although i've switched back to using an Ideal shoe.

It takes the skill out of bending pipe. Plus, it's a hard product to sell since there are no real issues with the ideal/greenlee/klein shoes. It's like reinventing your linesman pliers. They've been working quite well for decades. Why bother?

Shockdoc

Could be fun watching a helper attempt to use one of these to bend EMT

Attached Images

GL-849.jpg (23.4 KB, 84 views)

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dronai

I posted this because I thought it was a gimmick.

Where can I see the the simplified vs traditional multipliers ?

The Ugly's book showed a different method for a 3 point saddle from the ideal info.

dirtyfrank

the guy in those videos doesn't really do a good job of explaining how the bender is designed.

the marks that are 1.5/2/4 etc on one side of the bender are the simplified multipliers. Line up the stop to whichever mark, use the multipliers and you're set. the trade off of this, is that because the math is now different (aside from 30 degree bends) your offsets won't be perfect 45's or perfect 60's, or what have you. they'll be a few degrees off, but will be consistent.

on the other side of the bender are the degree notches (22.5/30/45/etc) which do not line up with the hoppy bender style notches. so just line up the stop with those on that side of the bender, and you can use the normal multipliers. 2 for 30 degrees, 1.4 for 45 degrees, etc.

so you can use the traditional system, or the hoppy system.

doing 3 bend saddles is really a joke with the hoppy. if you use the table on the handle, it's really easy. The instructions that come with the bender are really good.

Not a bad bender but it comes down to pride in doing it the old fashioned way, or increasing productivity.

nrp3

I am admittedly a lousy pipe bender. I have one that I picked up at a show a couple of years ago. I did a post and beam barn/garage with it and it worked fine. Its probably not a big help to those of you who are good pipe benders, but I found it helpful.

Dennis Alwon

The bender would probably be good for someone like myself who rarely bends pipe but I agree the marking thing seems foolish.

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SparkYZ

If its in the wall, sharpie. If its exposed, pencil.
Eff the hoppy bender I'll take my IDEAL bender any day

jrannis

I used to do that an then I discovered that a small dot is just as easy to see.

BTW, I think I could have made two of those 4 point saddles in the time he was playing with all of his toys...

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jrannis

I would say if its in the wall, no marks..

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Hippie

Why reinvent the wheel? A good pipe bender doesn't need all the gimmicks if they understand basic geometry and know how to use their tools. And I can see the little stop piece bending /breaking /getting lost pretty quick...