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Cordless drill with metal gearbox?

59K views 121 replies 49 participants last post by  CMP 
#1 ·
Does anyone have any firsthand knowledge of any cordless drills, in current production, that have metal gears?

I've freaking had it with Milwaukee cordless drills. I'm a Milwaukee fan, but I've torn up more cordless drills in the last 5 years than I ever hoped to own. I've personally gone through at least 4 or 5 18 volt drills, had a couple 28 volt drills rebuilt (each at least twice) and I just tore up another one yesterday (while drilling 6-5/8" holes with a holesaw in 5/8" drywall). Time for a change.

The last 18V I tore up, I tried to do some research and came to the conclusion that all cordless drills have plastic gears now. I switched to the 28V on the promise by the Milwaukee rep that they have that sorted out now, and the gearbox is sturdier. Not so, I'm here to tell you.

I need a bulletproof cordless drill. Survey says.... ?
 
#2 ·
I' m a Milwaukee fan too, but I tore the gears out of two 18 volt last year. My 28, the gears aren't stripped, it's the clutch, even though the dial is set to drill, the clutch slips. So I got another 28. Three months later, the variable speed trigger quit working. It's either full speed or nothing, which makes it impossible to "start" a bit on a brick wall in a precise location. I have spent tens of thousands on Milwaukee, and thousands on drills alone, and I'm still not satisfied.
 
#3 ·
I've been using the 18V XRP series DeWalt Hammerdrill combo for the past 3-4 years. Have not had quite as many problems as you have had although the DeWalt drills do have the same clutch problems, which cost more to fix than the drill itself. Currently have two drills that have made it two years.
 
#4 · (Edited)
This is a new DeWalt (DCD970) model: http://www.ebuild.com/articles/844783.hwx

However that article claims it has an all metal transmission which I don't know enough about to say if that applies to your all metal gear box.

Googling "all metal gear box drills", Craftsman came up a lot, though I would take that with a grain of salt.

Unfortunately it seems my beloved Bosch does not seem to provide that kind of design in the majority of its' drills with the exception of their impact wrench: http://bosch.cpotools.com/drills/cordless_impact_wrenches/21618.html Though I've dropped my baby drill several times without issues, and my 18 volt hammer hasn't caused any problems either.

Metabo claims to have a "die cast aluminum build" but once again I don't know if that's enough to meet your criteria.

http://www.cpometabo.com/products/602147520.html


EDIT: After looking at my current drill again it also claims to have "all metal gears", http://bosch.cpotools.com/drills/cordless_impact_wrenches/21618.html
 
#6 ·
The Dewalt:
In order to meet the jobsite demands of end users, DeWalt designed the drills with an all-steel transmission. The tools have a metal gear case allowing the transmission to dissipate heat and run cooler. Additionally, a steel lockout feature positively locks the tool in drill mode. The frameless motor produces increased airflow through the tool allowing the unit to function more efficiently. The motor also contains replaceable brushes for easy serviceability.
From that it seems that only the case is metal, it doesn't say anything about the gears. Altho the "steel lockout" to keep it in drill mode would help you guys who have clutch slipping problems.

The newest line of Hilti 18V Li-Ion drills are work horses and also pretty expensive, I wonder if they have steel gears?
 
#7 ·
Really? I've never even heard of gears stripping in milwauke drills. I've been quite happy with mine, never had a problem.

What I CAN tell you is, mikita must have a huge problem with plastic gears, because just about everyone I know with one has had to have the gears repaired.
 
#8 ·
I have a dewalt 18v XRP that I bought about a year ago and the clutch is already showing signs of wear. About 3 months ago it started to slip out of hammer mode during drilling. It has now reached the point where I have to physically hold the selector to keep in in hammer drill mode. Needless to say it is very irritating. I am planning to try a Hilti on the next round. (At this rate it looks to be pretty soon.)
 
#16 ·
I refuse. This is 2009. There should be a cordless that can handle it. Put the same gearbox they put in a corded drill, why don't they. I've torn them up drilling 7/8" holes in studs too.
 
#14 ·
Im right there with you Marc. Im a big Mill fan too. I had to replace my last 28 v drill because the chuck got all tore up. I was going to rebuild it but I said **** it. So I bought a new one (drill only) for 200 bucks. And Ill keep the old one for parts.
As far as bullet proof cordless goes... I dont think they exist. I been listening to fans of all types of drills and it seems to me, for every fan there is a non fan to counter the point. I think the real problem is, us. I can attest that I am very hard on my drills. And Im sure you are too.
 
#15 ·
i've had a milwaukee set for 2 years now, the clutch on the drill is damn near inoperable now, the saw-zall just took a dive, and the batteries are damn near shot, but i figure i got my use out of all of it, and money. i've heard good things about the makita kits so i think i'm going to go with that next, 1 reason being the drill and saw are lighter than the milwaukee and since i got a bosch bulldog, i hardly use the hammer function on the cordless anymore...
 
#22 ·
This is yet another example of the manufacturers/vendors/retailers telling the consumer what they should settle for rather than the listening to the demands of the professional user. Gas stations don't pump your gas for you or wash you windows, you bag your own groceries now at the grocery store (sometimes you even have to ring them up yourself), you get your own soda at fast food restaurants, and they've started to make tools junkier and expect us to like it. Excuse me, but I refuse to settle. I'll happily pay more for a quality drill... I just need to know which one that might be.
 
#23 ·
This is yet another example of the manufacturers/vendors/retailers telling the consumer what they should settle for rather than the listening to the demands of the professional user. Gas stations don't pump your gas for you or wash you windows, you bag your own groceries now at the grocery store (sometimes you even have to ring them up yourself), you get your own soda at fast food restaurants, and they've started to make tools junkier and expect us to like it. Excuse me, but I refuse to settle. I'll happily pay more for a quality drill... I just need to know which one that might be.
While you're at it, refuse to pay $2.59 for that gallon of gas you pump yourself, $3.49 for that gallon of milk you bag yourself, and $2.29 for that small soda you get from the dispensor yourself. :shifty:

You're preaching to the chior here, Marc. Call the manufacturers. :icon_wink:
 
#26 ·
i have a cordless hilti 18volt its a beast, the only draw back from it i say is the weight its heavy compare to a dewalt or a rigid screwgun. i dont know about the weight on the new hilti ion series but if you dont mind the weight then i would say get the hilti its a true worker
 
#33 ·
I can't recommend buying a dewalt 18volt drill. You will be disappointed a year or 2 later if you do. Yes the transmission systems are all steel, but that doesn't make up for their poor design. Yes it is improved compared to their first generation hammerdrills, but no it still based on a badly flawed design.

All that is IMHO of course.
 
#34 ·
I've had the 19.2 volt Porter Cable for 8 years and it's still going strong

The low speed has plenty of torque to drill a 4" hole through wood for a dryer vent :thumbsup:

I needed a "see snake" to look for buried splice boxes in an attic and bought the Milwaukee one that comes with a drill for around $260.00

The "see snake" might be good for inspecting pipes, but it sucked royally for searching through the attic

I used it through holes cut for recessed lights

Was returned the next day :(
 
#37 ·
Short answer... I don't want to. I want the convenience of a battery drill with a quality drive train.
 
#43 ·
Forgive me for being old fashon But I have 3 BLACK & DECKER KODIAK battery drills early 90's vintage. These are heavy duty industrial quality drills.when the last battery will not recharge I will never own anouther battery tool. I am sick and tired of being let down by tools when you need them. I find corded tools to be much more user friendly. I have just relpaced the cords on 2 Mlwaukee 3/8 drills that are 30+years old and one Milwaukee Magum hammer drill that I bought in 1984.
When I bought the batteries for the Kodiak drills the guy at the service center told me that those were the best battery drills that have ever been made bar nun If you ever have used one you know what I mean. I have looked on the net and I cannot find the 13.2 volt batteries even rebuilt.
LC
 
#52 ·
There is a little more physics involved than just the density of the material. The fact that the radius exeeds the recomended size of hole you can drill by almost three fold, is enough to put undo pressure on all the gears regardless of the material being drilled.
 
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