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05-06-2008, 11:06 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27
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Cutting Stainless Steel Strut
Hey all,
We were standing near the gang box this morning discussing the best way to cut 1 5/8" Stainless Steel Strut. "The company bought a chop saw", said the foreman.....We chuckled......We thought a band saw or table saw would be the way to go with a certain type of special blade. Does anyone else have any better solutions? Please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
Reseman
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05-06-2008, 11:29 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 665
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I've always used a PortaBand to cut it.
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05-07-2008, 12:10 AM
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#3
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a real PITA
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: N. Central Indiana/ SW Michigan
Posts: 885
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depends on how much I have to cut. anything from a hacksaw to a ssawzall to a portaband to a horizontal band saw.
chop saws work fine but they leave a real bad burr and you wear out the blade fast.
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05-07-2008, 05:24 AM
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#4
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"A" inside wireman
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ocean, NJ
Posts: 4,721
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If it's a 316 or stronger type I only use the chop saw, if it's the lighter stuff a hardened band saw is just fine.
__________________
A Veteran - whether active duty, retired, guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."
"One Nation Under God"
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05-07-2008, 08:23 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reseman
Hey all,
We were standing near the gang box this morning discussing the best way to cut 1 5/8" Stainless Steel Strut. "The company bought a chop saw", said the foreman.....We chuckled......We thought a band saw or table saw would be the way to go with a certain type of special blade. Does anyone else have any better solutions? Please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
Reseman

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Why would you laugh at that? thats exactly the tool I would be using. Perfect square cut.
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05-07-2008, 12:27 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cocoa, FL USA
Posts: 625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nap
depends on how much I have to cut. anything from a hacksaw to a ssawzall to a portaband to a horizontal band saw.
chop saws work fine but they leave a real bad burr and you wear out the blade fast.
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Reseman, good post.
Pretty much always used a portaband regardless of the composition of the strut. Less clean up and fewer tools to babysit, whether on a large project or small. I always insisted on marking the strut with a square prior to cutting. A square cut kinda gives your project that 'professional look', versus that 'wacked off look' that some men insisted was OK  And 'zinc-it' goes on every A-36 strut cut. I even insisted on 'cap nuts' on the end of each drop rod on a trapeezed strut run, under 10 feet AFF. How is that for being an A-hole? We were always invited back to those bid openings, for some reason.
If you men are interested, I'll reveal Heloise's secret for 60 second cuts on 4" GRC, or 4" anything.
Work'in For That Free Tee . . .
__________________
Be Safe Out there
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05-07-2008, 04:50 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighWirey
If you men are interested, I'll reveal Heloise's secret for 60 second cuts on 4" GRC, or 4" anything.
Work'in For That Free Tee . . .
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If doing it by hand, here's what I do: Take your tape measure and bend it around the pipe and use that as your straight edge. Take your pencil or sharpie and trace the line around the pipe.
Take your hacksaw and cut a groove (not all the way through) around the pipe exactly on your line. After your groove is cut go ahead and cut through the pipe, your hacksaw will follow your guide grooves and make a perfectly square cut with your hacksaw.
For a 4'' it's more than 60 seconds I'm sure. Doesn't take long though and you don't have to cut it more than once to try to get a square cut..
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05-07-2008, 06:33 PM
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#8
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"A" inside wireman
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ocean, NJ
Posts: 4,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gilbequick
If doing it by hand, here's what I do: Take your tape measure and bend it around the pipe and use that as your straight edge. Take your pencil or sharpie and trace the line around the pipe.
Take your hacksaw and cut a groove (not all the way through) around the pipe exactly on your line. After your groove is cut go ahead and cut through the pipe, your hacksaw will follow your guide grooves and make a perfectly square cut with your hacksaw.
For a 4'' it's more than 60 seconds I'm sure. Doesn't take long though and you don't have to cut it more than once to try to get a square cut..
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One of the benefits of having fitters in the same company is you can borrow a wrap-a-round, it's like a leather belt they use to lay out cuts on pipe, some are leather and some composite, they work well on large pipe. I usually mark it out and cut it with a porta band.
__________________
A Veteran - whether active duty, retired, guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."
"One Nation Under God"
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05-07-2008, 06:36 PM
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#9
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"A" inside wireman
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ocean, NJ
Posts: 4,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighWirey
Reseman, good post.
Pretty much always used a portaband regardless of the composition of the strut. Less clean up and fewer tools to babysit, whether on a large project or small. I always insisted on marking the strut with a square prior to cutting. A square cut kinda gives your project that 'professional look', versus that 'wacked off look' that some men insisted was OK  And 'zinc-it' goes on every A-36 strut cut. I even insisted on 'cap nuts' on the end of each drop rod on a trapeezed strut run, under 10 feet AFF. How is that for being an A-hole? We were always invited back to those bid openings, for some reason.
If you men are interested, I'll reveal Heloise's secret for 60 second cuts on 4" GRC, or 4" anything.
Work'in For That Free Tee . . .
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We have had some 3/8" threaded SS rod that just burns up blades (sawzall or porta band) no matter how slow you go or use lubricant. They cut fairly on a chop saw but slowly just the same.
Let's hear the hint from Heloise. Cooking spray as lube?
__________________
A Veteran - whether active duty, retired, guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."
"One Nation Under God"
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05-07-2008, 08:41 PM
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#10
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Semi-Retired
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Triad (NC)
Posts: 1,289
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Bi-metal 18 teeth per inch blades and slow speed (heat); no lube.
__________________
November 2011: Relocated to Winston-Salem.
May have to change the username suffix.
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05-08-2008, 10:05 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cocoa, FL USA
Posts: 625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randomkiller
We have had some 3/8" threaded SS rod that just burns up blades (sawzall or porta band) no matter how slow you go or use lubricant. They cut fairly on a chop saw but slowly just the same.
Let's hear the hint from Heloise. Cooking spray as lube?
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You sure do run into some wierd material between that 3/8 rod and the aluminum pipe where "the outer skin seems harder than normal".
Heloise's conduit quik-kut hint only works on a larger project where there is a little extra money for 'small tools', and a fab shop.
I bought a small (1/4" capacity) plasma torch. It worked so well on our NEMA 4X stainless panel KOs (those punch killers) that I built a ten foot long 'roller table'. The torch head was mounted on a 10' length of strut and was quickly adjustable throughout the length of a stick of pipe. The whole thing was driven by a Grainger gearmotor via a 'fan speed' controller. Really sweet. 60 second cuts or less in any pipe, guaranteed.
No blades, no lube, no pipe vise, no wrap-a-rounds, cuts any conductive material, very little kerf cleanup, and cheap, less than $3K. Payback came quickly. Try it, you'll like it. Sorry no pictures.
Work'in For That Free Tee . . .
__________________
Be Safe Out there
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05-08-2008, 04:05 PM
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#12
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a real PITA
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: N. Central Indiana/ SW Michigan
Posts: 885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randomkiller
One of the benefits of having fitters in the same company is you can borrow a wrap-a-round, it's like a leather belt they use to lay out cuts on pipe, some are leather and some composite, they work well on large pipe. I usually mark it out and cut it with a porta band.
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if you have some sheet rockers around, you can use some of their paper tape. Works just as well.
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05-08-2008, 06:44 PM
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#13
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"A" inside wireman
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ocean, NJ
Posts: 4,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighWirey
You sure do run into some wierd material between that 3/8 rod and the aluminum pipe where "the outer skin seems harder than normal".
Heloise's conduit quik-kut hint only works on a larger project where there is a little extra money for 'small tools', and a fab shop.
I bought a small (1/4" capacity) plasma torch. It worked so well on our NEMA 4X stainless panel KOs (those punch killers) that I built a ten foot long 'roller table'. The torch head was mounted on a 10' length of strut and was quickly adjustable throughout the length of a stick of pipe. The whole thing was driven by a Grainger gearmotor via a 'fan speed' controller. Really sweet. 60 second cuts or less in any pipe, guaranteed.
No blades, no lube, no pipe vise, no wrap-a-rounds, cuts any conductive material, very little kerf cleanup, and cheap, less than $3K. Payback came quickly. Try it, you'll like it. Sorry no pictures.
Work'in For That Free Tee . . .
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We do get some wierd jobs, it's a part of the design build that my company loves to bid. Some of us say "if it was easy they would have had another bid".
__________________
A Veteran - whether active duty, retired, guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."
"One Nation Under God"
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