twintask

Which brand and what type (right angle, straight) of drill do you guys prefer for making holes fast when doing roughins.

JohnJ0906

Residential, wood framing, you mean?

I use a Milwaukee 1/2" D-handle (straight) with a 18" x 13/16" Greenlee ship auger.

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480sparky

Milwaukee Hole Hawg, Lenox 7/8" ship auger.

http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...oductId=684305

http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...UGER_BITS.html


If'n your speaking commercial, then a Greenlee Stud Punch.

http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/m...c_number=08377


Now, if you talking BIG commercial, and you need to punch a bunch o' holes in a panel that have no KOs from the factory, nuttin' beats a C-frame punch.

http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/m...c_number=15911

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All responses based on the 2008 National Rat Code.

itsunclebill

This depends. I own a Hole Hawg, a Milw. D handle rt angle drill, a DeWalt right angle stud borer, a Milw. Magnum 1/2 inch drill (the older model), an older 3/8 Milw. drill, and a Milw "mechanics" drill (chuck is offset at about 55 deg). I also have a 33 deg 30 inch extension for the right angle drill. And spares of several of these.

Floor joists almost always get drilled with the 33 deg extension and D handle with a stubby auger. I usually use the 3/8 with stubby auger or paddle bits to drill studs, up to 7/8 dia. Larger holes in studs get the Magnum, larger holes in joists get the Dewalt, big holes in plates get the Hawg. I use the lightest drill I can without tearing it up because I don't like hauling around the big stuff all day. Overhead the leverage on the DeWalt using the 2 handles is about right, the Hawg has to have the pipe handle or you'll get hurt eventually, but it'll drill anything

When I've only got a few floor joists or close studs the mechanics drill comes out as long as they're inch or less holes (the drill will take more abuse than my wrists will) because it's easy to bore horizontal holes with it. Good drill in a lot of close spots but will kill wrists using it all day.

I'm adament about drilling aligned holes for ease of pulling wire. While I've nothing against the guys that use the 18" augers, you have to drill alternate studs or joists from opposite sides to be able to pull wire easily, and it pulls a lot easier with straight ones.

I suppose if I had to choose I'd get buy with the D handle and Magnum.

Bits have to have flutes to clean out chips if you're drilling through more than 1 2X or it's work to pull the bit back out - unless it's a large vertical hole. If the smaller self feed bits would clean out the chips I'd throw away augers and paddle bits.

Confused yet?

threewire

http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...oductId=684309


May be a bit more expensive but well worth it. I used to use a regular hole hog and it would about rip my arms off every time i hit a nail, but the super hole hog has a clutch to prevent arms from getting ripped off. It is a little heavier and awkward at first but you get used to it.

480sparky

Don't forget about using the 30° extension for taller ceilings!

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All responses based on the 2008 National Rat Code.

randomkiller

Funny how much that looks like the old timerwolf.

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randomkiller

I have an older Milwaukee right angle, hole hawg, and 1/2" magnum drills on my truck for heavy duty stuff and an 18v rt. angle for holes smaller than 1 1/8".

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Speedy Petey

As also Unk mentioned, THIS is my drill of preference! 7'-10' ceilings and any walls or floors. This drill rocks! My back and knees are forever in debt to Milwaukee for this drill.

For big or fast work I have a SuperHawg as well. That drill is a TANK and will drill faster than you can clear the chips, in almost ANY size hole!

I have several others as well, like a P-C RA drill that is beefy, and others, but they usually only come out when more are needed.

For a quick few holes I just grab a battery drill. I have many spade bits and a few small (~5/8") augers. Much better than dragging out a big drill and cords for a couple of holes.

KayJay

The DW124 is what I normally use, but depending on the application, I also have these other RAD’s as well.
Unfortunately it’s been pretty slow a round here lately, so they aren’t getting used nearly as much as I would like them to.

480sparky

'Course, if you really want to have fun at work:

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KayJay

I think that may give a “hole” new meaning to the term...STUD PUNCH !!

twintask

Thanks everyone for the quick replies, keep'em coming. It seems that the Milwaukee right angle, and Milwaukee 1/2in Magnum are favorites among most of you guys. That extension attachment looks awesome with the V18 Milwaukee RAD.

480sparky

We'll need to learn the meaning of the phrases like "Exit Wound" and "Collateral Damage" as well!

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All responses based on the 2008 National Rat Code.

Idaho Abe

I like Sparky's idea. I use what ever the apprentice likes to use.

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BIGRED

That Milwaulkee extension sucks! Check out these extensions www.priceandrutzebeck.com/index.html, they are much better!

twintask

BIGRED, is that extension compatible with most types of drills and how is it attached?

randomkiller

It's chucked in with a clamp on brace to the drill body, which looks like a joke for homeowners that don't want a professional tool like the Milwaukee. I have seen the Milw's in use since I was a kid (long time ago) and other than hooking insulation blowing through a stud, never seen anything bad about them.

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randomkiller

Exit wound: the last part of the body to try and grab on to the bullet.

Collateral Damage: often being sprayed by debris when shooting a .50 in an urban environment

being covered in "wet" debris when your muzzle is too close to an enemy

sometimes caused by follow through when you troops are located behind or too close too said enemy targets


Shooting .50 is getting to expensive for me at @$3.00 per round surplus

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HighWirey

[quote=480sparky;22523]'Course, if you really want to have fun at work:

[/QUOTE

Thought the writers strike was over. But 480 keeps going and going, just like that Energizer Bunny.

He has a pic for every occasion, and more.

Best Wishes Everyone

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