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Old 10-26-2009, 11:14 PM   #1
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what do you guys think - at least its made in america
http://cgi.ebay.com/Electricians-Too...item45eedc93fd
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:17 PM   #2
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I usually just take a scap piece of pipe and cut it same length as the height of the bottom of the box. (dummy stick)

I haven't done a lot of residential though.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:18 PM   #3
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something else to carry around. IDK, I use a tape measure, and my boxes are all pretty much where they should be. If you have an idiot mounting the boxes for you, you can give him all the tools you want he/she still won't do it right. Never needed anything fancy.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:20 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by BCSparkyGirl View Post
something else to carry around. IDK, I use a tape measure, and my boxes are all pretty much where they should be. If you have an idiot mounting the boxes for you, you can give him all the tools you want he/she still won't do it right. Never needed anything fancy.
Touche
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:27 PM   #5
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I wear a knee pad on right knee.. put hammer next to 2X4, hold box with left hand and use hammer to bang box onto stud.

Works same way with steel studs except use screw gun

Hammer makes a great tool for measuring boxes off the floor
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:27 PM   #6
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my favorite was always "hammer height" , who's hammer i would always ask
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:33 PM   #7
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my favorite was always "hammer height" , who's hammer i would always ask
lol no doubt, that thing looks pretty neat. I usually use a 2x6 that way I can mount two boxes next to each other ( high/low volt ). Throw it in with the box of boxes, works for me.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:58 PM   #8
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My boxes are at "Klein hammer height"
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:39 AM   #9
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my favorite was always "hammer height" , who's hammer i would always ask
I answered the question that way on an job app for a resi shop once...
and for how high to run the wire it was hip high...
where the drill is held and braced for boring.

bigger resi shops insist everyone have the same brand/model of hammer for just that reason
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:42 AM   #10
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I love the guy wearing sneakers in the pic haha I do stanley anti-vibe hammer height on mine unless spec says other
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:01 AM   #11
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I like the hammer or "dummy" stick method. If that tool is not adjustable, what good is it? The owner or architect may have their own height for whatever reason. I remember one time roughing over counter receptacles in an old house measuring off the floor. After the counters were installed my rough in looked like sh#t. The floor was very unlevel. Should have used a 4 foot level as a guide. Good thing that house was purchased to be flipped.
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:43 PM   #12
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I love the guy wearing sneakers in the pic
When I was roughing houses in the Summer/Fall that's all I ever wore. I love my New Balances. Light and airy, keeps you cool and light on the feet.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:17 PM   #13
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Makes my MDF blocks look low tech.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:07 AM   #14
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you have to measure off the ceiling to get all boxes to line up on a deck>>>
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:13 AM   #15
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something else to carry around. IDK, I use a tape measure, and my boxes are all pretty much where they should be. If you have an idiot mounting the boxes for you, you can give him all the tools you want he/she still won't do it right. Never needed anything fancy.
BINGO!
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:21 PM   #16
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Most custom houses I've worked on we ask the GC if there was a preferred box height. If there was, great. If not, we usually went with 14 inches from the subfloor and made a long dummy stick with markings for outlets, switch boxes and any special-request box heights for certain locations. We always had one guy going around marking all the locations and box heights while the got on with attaching the boxes.

It seems like that box height tool thing would waste a lot of time what with attaching the box to the tool and then nailing it in followed by removing the tool.

Isn't it easy enough to hold the box to the marking on the stud, smack the side once so the teeth dig in, put the screws in place and drill them in? That's like 10 seconds.
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:37 PM   #17
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Edit: I didn't read the part about you screwing the boxes up...
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:08 AM   #18
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Isn't it easy enough to hold the box to the marking on the stud, smack the side once so the teeth dig in, put the screws in place and drill them in? That's like 10 seconds.

Haven't you Canadians caught on to the concept of a nail-on box yet?
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:13 AM   #19
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Haven't you Canadians caught on to the concept of a nail-on box yet?
The ones with nails already attached when they come out of the carton? I've never used one I don't think they are that common around here.
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:15 AM   #20
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The ones with nails already attached? I've never used one
Can you even get them in Canada, eh?
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