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Old 04-16-2012, 09:40 PM   #341
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Originally Posted by 480sparky View Post
Those are US inches.

In log homes, I put them at 52".
I generally put them at 12" to bottom (13.5" to centre) unless specs instruct me otherwise.

Switches are 47.5" centre line.

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Old 04-28-2012, 10:31 AM   #342
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Ever need to run a machine nut a long way up or down a piece of all-thread?

Take your HandyMans' Secret Weapon (ordinary duct tape) and wrap 3 or 4 layers sticky-side out around the chuck of your cordless. Lightly press the tape against the nut, and, with the drill set for the proper direction (CW/CCW) just pull the trigger and try to keep up!

I mean, this is really fast! A foot every one or two seconds once you get the hang of it.

This to me seems like an ok idea. Maybe this will work better for some. I usually get the nut started on the all thread about and inch, then stick the all thread into my drill as if it were a drill bit. Grab the nut with channel locks, wrench, whatever you prefer. Run the drill in reverse, the nut will zip up the all thread. Careful to not damage threads when tightening the chuck on your drill, and if you try to tighten with drill before you remove it will likely damage the threads inside the chuck.
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:45 PM   #343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by croakerchoker

This to me seems like an ok idea. Maybe this will work better for some. I usually get the nut started on the all thread about and inch, then stick the all thread into my drill as if it were a drill bit. Grab the nut with channel locks, wrench, whatever you prefer. Run the drill in reverse, the nut will zip up the all thread. Careful to not damage threads when tightening the chuck on your drill, and if you try to tighten with drill before you remove it will likely damage the threads inside the chuck.
That wont work on an existing rack.
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Old 04-28-2012, 05:06 PM   #344
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[quote=dowmace;700826]That wont work on an existing rack.[/

True, never said it would...
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:18 PM   #345
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True, never said it would...
What he's getting at is that the method you commented on will.
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:04 PM   #346
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1)like the color coding on nut drivers ive colr coded my sockets and wrenches with phase tape! instead of digging thru my klein bag, just look for the colors.
2) if ur short on threaded reducers for up to 1 1/2 " thread the outside of a grc coupling ie a 1/2 grc coupl threaded on the outside will screw into a 3/4 hub.
3) when u have a bunch of conduits stubbed out of the slab and need to go into a panel or trough, put a piece of cardboard or 1/4 luan on it and tap with a hammer, no need for all kinds of measurements! makes a great template
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:27 PM   #347
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If you need to cut a drill bit down in size, just get your hacksaw and hold it on the bit steadied against the jaws of the chuck and go for gold moving the hacksaw back and forth. I had to do this recently when I was running conduit inside a cavity sliding door, using my M12 right angle drill.
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:35 PM   #348
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my steps stairs ladder !
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:37 PM   #349
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my steps stairs ladder !
I just cut the front legs down off of a regular ladder for stairs work then replaced the feet and it looks purpose built.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:24 AM   #350
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What could possibly go wrong?
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:30 AM   #351
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What could possibly go wrong?

Belt slip maybe and you break your back when you land? Way more money spent on medical bills than renting or buying a stair ladder.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:32 AM   #352
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1)like the color coding on nut drivers ive colr coded my sockets and wrenches with phase tape! instead of digging thru my klein bag, just look for the colors.
2) if ur short on threaded reducers for up to 1 1/2 " thread the outside of a grc coupling ie a 1/2 grc coupl threaded on the outside will screw into a 3/4 hub.
3) when u have a bunch of conduits stubbed out of the slab and need to go into a panel or trough, put a piece of cardboard or 1/4 luan on it and tap with a hammer, no need for all kinds of measurements! makes a great template

1) Sounds like it'll work.
2) Sounds like a PIA first off and then changing the approved use of a fitting if caught by an inspector just isn't worth it in the long run. Plus I'd think it looks hack.
3) Use it all the time.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:05 AM   #353
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1) Sounds like it'll work.
2) Sounds like a PIA first off and then changing the approved use of a fitting if caught by an inspector just isn't worth it in the long run. Plus I'd think it looks hack.
3) Use it all the time.
only ever done #2 in a pinch, yes it is hack! but has gotten me out of a jam in the past
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:31 PM   #354
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Belt slip maybe and you break your back when you land? Way more money spent on medical bills than renting or buying a stair ladder.
Especially when a Little Giant Select Step 5-8 is only $155 with shipping today.
(unfortunately it's aluminum, even though a fiberglass is only $230)
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:35 AM   #355
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I use a ratchet strap and climb on the 4' yellow ladder , happen maybe twice per year to be in situation like that , so good enough .
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:15 PM   #356
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When marking center in a ceiling tile for a fixture box, use a straightedge and make a line from both diagonal corner to corner. If your tape measure is beefy enough you can use that.

way faster and no math involved.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:53 AM   #357
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When marking center in a ceiling tile for a fixture box, use a straightedge and make a line from both diagonal corner to corner. If your tape measure is beefy enough you can use that.

way faster and no math involved.
Aren't you drilling/cutting from the back in that case? It tends to make the veneer at the edges of the hole pull away when you do that and some fixtures don't cover it.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:16 AM   #358
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Originally Posted by bubb_tubbs

Aren't you drilling/cutting from the back in that case? It tends to make the veneer at the edges of the hole pull away when you do that and some fixtures don't cover it.
Poke through the center from the back and you know where to put the pilot bit. Flip it, then cut. Ceiling tiles have a tendency to blow out the back which makes the face look jagged (like you said above)

I've also heard of using a small bit, some thread measured to the radius of your desired circle and a pencil to mark them. Pop through the center and circle around with your pencil. Never tried it, though.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:22 AM   #359
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Originally Posted by MollyHatchet29

Poke through the center from the back and you know where to put the pilot bit. Flip it, then cut. Ceiling tiles have a tendency to blow out the back which makes the face look jagged (like you said above)

I've also heard of using a small bit, some thread measured to the radius of your desired circle and a pencil to mark them. Pop through the center and circle around with your pencil. Never tried it, though.
I've stacked 3-4 on top of each other and drill through all of them with my adjustable radius cutter…boom, done.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:33 AM   #360
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A Quick tip is to use Portable Test Equipment instead of regulars. There are those with power sources built-in.

MCB Testers

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