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View Poll Results: Can you bend a 3 point saddle?
Yes!!! 99 90.00%
No!!!! 11 10.00%
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Old 10-20-2007, 04:01 PM   #41
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I use to bend them all the time in the 80's 1 1/4" Without a tape measurer Seriously I did. And know they wernt barking

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Old 10-20-2007, 04:17 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by 00Funk View Post
I use to bend them all the time in the 80's 1 1/4" Without a tape measurer Seriously I did. And know they wernt barking
I just barely have enough backside to bend 1-1/4 by hand. I look like I'm riding a drunken pogo-stick.
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Old 10-20-2007, 05:09 PM   #43
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I did a 100 apartment complex all EMT seperate feeders to each unit all 1-1/4" I was the only one with enough back side 3 months worth.
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Old 10-21-2007, 07:13 AM   #44
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I can barely lug the bender around. The bends aren't uniform either. If I fall of the bender whilst I'm bending, it seems to affect the quality of workmanship.
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Old 02-15-2008, 11:48 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tab Faber View Post
3 point saddle (emt)

measure center point of saddle and mark

measure and mark both directions away from center

pipe in air, emt bender
first mark, closest to end of conduit lay on center mark of bender, bend to 22.5
second mark middlle, lay on star of hand bender and bend to 45
last mark, lay on arrow and bend to 22.5

Your center will always turn out correct.
I usually have a minor straightening adjustment at the end.

Try it guys, it works great.
That’s basically how I bend a 3 point saddle. I bend conduit almost every day and this seems to be the fastest and most consistent way to come up with near perfect saddles every time. The only difference is:

After I laying out the saddle on the conduit in the typical way, keeping the bender pointing in the same direction. (Makes it easer and faster) I bend the first bend on the star mark of the bender, (the mark away from me) (it doesn’t matter which way you turn the pipe) - slide the pipe down to the second mark (the middle of the bend) make this bend on the notch – slide the pipe down to the next mark (the one close to you) bend this on the arrow. – It works and is much easer than turning your pipe to make the different bends.
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Old 02-16-2008, 01:53 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdelung View Post
That’s basically how I bend a 3 point saddle. I bend conduit almost every day and this seems to be the fastest and most consistent way to come up with near perfect saddles every time. The only difference is:

After I laying out the saddle on the conduit in the typical way, keeping the bender pointing in the same direction. (Makes it easer and faster) I bend the first bend on the star mark of the bender, (the mark away from me) (it doesn’t matter which way you turn the pipe) - slide the pipe down to the second mark (the middle of the bend) make this bend on the notch – slide the pipe down to the next mark (the one close to you) bend this on the arrow. – It works and is much easer than turning your pipe to make the different bends.

Your use of the bender marks makes no sense to me, but i've never used the marks the way you say they work. Although with your method of the marks and pointing the pipe either way I assume it's always a cut both ends of the pipe situation?
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Old 02-16-2008, 01:58 AM   #47
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Hey Brian John;
just noticed your avatar (haven't been on in a while), and it reminded me of a pic I got today in an email (the virginia plate)

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Old 02-16-2008, 06:09 AM   #48
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I think vdelung bends the saddles the same, just that he lays the pipe on the ground to bend them. I bend them in the air.
The method does not require the ends to be cut off.
You measure center, bend on the center notch, she comes out at the right length.
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:16 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Momma View Post
Your use of the bender marks makes no sense to me, but i've never used the marks the way you say they work. Although with your method of the marks and pointing the pipe either way I assume it's always a cut both ends of the pipe situation?

No, it's never a cut - center is center, no matter which way you point the pipe. -- it's always easer to point the short end of the pipe away from you. I came up this one day when I had a rack of about 20 pipes that had to cross one little 3/4 pipe. the center was close to the end of the pipe ( dont remember what it was, something like 15 inches) -- try turning the short end tward you on that, it's almost inpossable to do, after a few trial and error bends, i found this system works...... try it. --
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Old 02-16-2008, 02:21 PM   #50
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I don't measure unless I'm doing something like a 1'-4' offset. Easy enough with 1/2" emt, but IMC over 3/4" becomes a comedy routine with a scheduled hot tub after.

Dave
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Old 02-16-2008, 05:44 PM   #51
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A little trick on emt is put a connector or coupling on your pipe first the screw gives you the center line
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:16 PM   #52
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[quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by vdelung View Post
I came up this one day when I had a rack of about 20 pipes that had to cross one little 3/4 pipe. quote]
this is where all you need is one 4 bend saddle on only one pipe... the 3/4 you are thinking about bending all those 20 other pipes around.
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:16 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gampa View Post
A little trick on emt is put a connector or coupling on your pipe first the screw gives you the center line
very good tip g-pa
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Old 02-16-2008, 08:57 PM   #54
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Unistrut came to mind thinking of 20 saddles!
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Old 02-16-2008, 10:42 PM   #55
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Your right Vdelung about center being center, wasn't thinking clearly last night.
Nice to have a trick when make a full rack all the same, but if it were just one or two I found a trick for making small bends on short ends(like the 15 incher mentioned)

I'll slide the handle of another bender over the short end and bend in the air. Gives the needed leverage and won't oval the pipe so long as the stub length is within reason (perhaps 6 or 8 inches, never found the limit)
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Old 02-17-2008, 07:32 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftyguitarjoe View Post
Alot of electricians go through out their career
and never learn how to do this bend.

The thing is, ITS NOT HARD!!!!!
I'VE BEEN BENDING PIPE FOR 3 DAYS and i can do it.

for those who might not know:

1. mark the pipe where the center of the bend will be (directly above the obstacle)

2. Measure the height of the obstacle. Multiply the height by 2 1/2 and make a mark that distance from the center mark.

3. ADD 3/16 OF AN INCH FOR EVERY INCH HIGH THE OBSTACLE IS

4. Make the center bend at a 45 degree angle. (does not have to be 45, some prefer 60, some prefer others)

5. make the other 2 bends 22 1/2 degree bends. you gotta do these in the air.

6. Place the new 3 point saddle above your work and adjust if necessary





So thats it. I've memorized it


Wow, bending pipe for three days and already he knows it all. The shrinkage for the 45 degree angle is 3/8 for every inch not 3/16. Also, you have to add shrinkage for 22 1/2 bends which is 3/16 per inch. You didn't mention your multiplier between bend marks. You want to bend like a pro you would bend your first 22 1/2 first , flip it over and bend the 45 and bring it down and over for the last 22 1/12 Done properly there's no need for adjustments.

If there's an electrician that doesn't know how to bend saddles (which I doubt) doesn't mean he's not a qualified and skilled electrician. I'm wondering how you know that there's alot of electricians who doesn't know how to bend saddles? Someone must have told you of course.

I't's good that your learning, try being a little more humble.

Practice bending offsets, 3 and 4 point saddles, parallel offsets with scrap pipe. Remember, pipe bending is an art in itself. The biggest factor in a nice professional pipe run is "simplicity". Bends only when needed and always keep in mind about pulling wire through it. In my experience with conduit bends, I have used 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 degree bends as well as 30, and seldom 45 you will learn from others with more experience and you will get better.

Last edited by idoelectric; 02-17-2008 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 02-17-2008, 04:50 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDShunk View Post
Me too, but mostly due to impatience. Bigger (read-more expensive) pipe, I'll take my time to do it right. The 'no dog' offset level pretty much cures that if I'm not too lazy to walk to the truck to get it.
Marc,

I'll bet if you are doing a RobRoy job, you will expend the extra walking energy! Then if you can just tread it without a mess.

I thought I was good at pipe, but I usually copped out buy using strut.

Best Wishes Everyone
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Old 02-17-2008, 05:09 PM   #58
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When working with robroy I clean the end up with a minigrinder before threading and when bending I use a larger shoe and put a couple of rags oround the pipe It seems to help a bit Hint : Always have can of liquid plastic handy and when the job is complete (each stick) put it on all the marks that way you don't have to go back on your work and do it later and you don't miss any
I hope I have helped someone today
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:06 PM   #59
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If the saddle needs to be very deep (over 3"), Igenerally bend a 4 point. Easier and looks better. I have to saddle bend fairly regular as I do industrial work.

And yep, I've dogged them on occasion. Do like the other poster said, either cuss or say oh well, depending on mood and stress level.


I see several others also keep Benfields book handy. That was my teacher and savior on bending pipe.

Last edited by 3phase; 02-23-2008 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:34 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftyguitarjoe View Post
Alot of electricians go through out their career
and never learn how to do this bend.

The thing is, ITS NOT HARD!!!!!
I'VE BEEN BENDING PIPE FOR 3 DAYS and i can do it.

for those who might not know:

1. mark the pipe where the center of the bend will be (directly above the obstacle)

2. Measure the height of the obstacle. Multiply the height by 2 1/2 and make a mark that distance from the center mark.

3. ADD 3/16 OF AN INCH FOR EVERY INCH HIGH THE OBSTACLE IS

4. Make the center bend at a 45 degree angle. (does not have to be 45, some prefer 60, some prefer others)

5. make the other 2 bends 22 1/2 degree bends. you gotta do these in the air.

6. Place the new 3 point saddle above your work and adjust if necessary





So thats it. I've memorized it


I am glad you got it down as you say. Like to take a ride and see what you can run????? Don't get me wrong, I work maintenance, and don't bend alot of pipe. I have seen guys run pipe without a tape. A saddle is not a whole lot to brag about. When you see someone run pipe just by thumbnail marks and can duplicate it, then you have accomplished something. Don't ever say you have pipe work down unless you can back it. I have seen guys run pipe tighter than the virgin Mary. Here I am running tight numbers and these guys are banging off super tight pipe work without a second thought. YES, it makes me feel little!!!!

Running pipe is not something simple.

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