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Old 05-03-2012, 11:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by electric ninja
Looks like a cat or a Detroit. How long did you have it at 75% before that happened?
It's a Cummins. 855 block it looks like a small cam. The fuel pump dangling gives it away that its a Cummins. Not to mention it appears to be painted Cummins beige as well

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Old 05-03-2012, 11:56 PM   #22
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Looks like a cat or a Detroit. How long did you have it at 75% before that happened?
I will be the second person in here will say it is Cummins small cam engine.

More likely the valve did drop and cause the damage especally if someone forgot to adjust the differnce on bridge rocker. That will useally kill it if too much slop on the bridge rocker ( this part can happend to any engines with multi valve set up )

Merci,
Marc
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:01 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by frenchelectrican

I will be the second person in here will say it is Cummins small cam engine.

More likely the valve did drop and cause the damage especally if someone forgot to adjust the differnce on bridge rocker. That will useally kill it if too much slop on the bridge rocker ( this part can happend to any engines with multi valve set up )

Merci,
Marc
I hate running the overhead on any diesel epically the 2 stroke detroits. I have a trick for the old school Cummins. But the same goes for all ' no body around while im setting overhead
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:04 AM   #24
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I hate running the overhead on any diesel epically the 2 stroke detroits. I have a trick for the old school Cummins. But the same goes for all ' no body around while im setting overhead

I have many peoples call me in to set the rack on detorits and EMDs ( Monster Detorits ) and few of them were suprised that I never bother look at the service manual I told them if you fool around long engouh you will know the numbers right off your head.

The old school Cummis the main thing is make sure you do not over travel on injector rocker arm otherwise you will blow the cup out or bend the push rod.

Merci,
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:14 AM   #25
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I have many peoples call me in to set the rack on detorits and EMDs ( Monster Detorits ) and few of them were suprised that I never bother look at the service manual I told them if you fool around long engouh you will know the numbers right off your head.

The old school Cummis the main thing is make sure you do not over travel on injector rocker arm otherwise you will blow the cup out or bend the push rod.

Merci,
Marc
Yup on the Cummins. I have a special 6 inch pounds. Torque wrench for the Cummins. I've for a l10 in the shop I have to tear into when u hit the started it spins like half turn. Then stops but I can turn it several revs backwards but not in the correct direction. Fresh batteries and starter too I guess ill start by pulling the injectors
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:19 AM   #26
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Yup on the Cummins. I have a special 6 inch pounds. Torque wrench for the Cummins. I've for a l10 in the shop I have to tear into when u hit the started it spins like half turn. Then stops but I can turn it several revs backwards but not in the correct direction. Fresh batteries and starter too I guess ill start by pulling the injectors
I will give you a serious head up on L10 Series ( the same thing with M11 as well ) is look at #3 et #4 hole ( Cylinder ) and very carefull check the counterbore and countersink flange they are good for cracking if not watch them.

The reason why due you will have coolant leak comming from that area it kinda the same way with 855 series if you are aware with it.

BTW they are mid stop wet sleeve engine so give you a head up with it if you have to pop them out.

Merci,
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:24 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by frenchelectrican

I will give you a serious head up on L10 Series ( the same thing with M11 as well ) is look at #3 et #4 hole ( Cylinder ) and very carefull check the counterbore and countersink flange they are good for cracking if not watch them.

The reason why due you will have coolant leak comming from that area it kinda the same way with 855 series if you are aware with it.

BTW they are mid stop wet sleeve engine so give you a head up with it if you have to pop them out.

Merci,
Marc
This one was putting a little bit of water in the oil it plugged up the blow by tube with a gray slime. This gen ran 12 hrs a day but only used a half gallon of water a week but they didn't keep up on the sca in the coolant so I think the liners may be pitted badly
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:30 AM   #28
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This one was putting a little bit of water in the oil it plugged up the blow by tube with a gray slime. This gen ran 12 hrs a day but only used a half gallon of water a week but they didn't keep up on the sca in the coolant so I think the liners may be pitted badly

Bingo.,, SCA is the key item on wet sleeved engines and with your situation it pretty much done for due a major inframe so just be prepare for two differnt situaton when you pull the top end off either upper liner stop is cracked or have counterbore cracked in either location that will do a slow leak.

If you see the head is good shape I will give you a trick to do this to find out if liner leak or counterbore leak is take few washer and build a brige and toqure the cylinder head bolts to specs and pressure up the coolant to about 10 or 15 PSIG ( If I recall the correct number ) and yank the oil pan out and look from below if you see it drip then the O ring is done for it. ( mid stop )

If stay dry then counterbore or upper stop is cracked.

But to reset the counterbore can be pain in butt if don't have proper counterbore boring tool so check with dail indecator to see how much it runs out if too much you will have to ream it out with counterbore drilling rig. ( just a very little then you will have to add shim to get all the bore at same height.)

Merci,
Marc
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:34 AM   #29
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Bingo.,, SCA is the key item on wet sleeved engines and with your situation it pretty much done for due a major inframe so just be prepare for two differnt situaton when you pull the top end off either upper liner stop is cracked or have counterbore cracked in either location that will do a slow leak.

If you see the head is good shape I will give you a trick to do this to find out if liner leak or counterbore leak is take few washer and build a brige and toqure the cylinder head bolts to specs and pressure up the coolant to about 10 or 15 PSIG ( If I recall the correct number ) and yank the oil pan out and look from below if you see it drip then the O ring is done for it.

If stay dry then counterbore or upper stop is cracked.

But to reset the counterbore can be pain in butt if don't have proper counterbore boring tool so check with dail indecator to see how much it runs out if too much you will have to ream it out with counterbore drilling rig. ( just a very little then you will have to add shim to get all the bore at same height.)

Merci,
Marc
I hate the single head design if its not as simple as just throwing new liners at is we will probably buy a truck with a emissions not compliant in ca engine. Rob the engine from it and scrap the truck. We have quite a selection of 855 Cummins. Small and big cam. And cat 3400 s. Just waiting for the current engines to die
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:45 AM   #30
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Nobody like BBQ blamed it on GENERAC..
I would have if I thought it was.

My guess is it is an older Cummings.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:47 AM   #31
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it appears to be painted Cummins beige as well
That was what I noticed as well.
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:34 PM   #32
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I bet Cletis could fix it !
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:53 AM   #33
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Well the makers or j b weld claim there epoxy repaired a cat block. J b weld is a hillbilly s. Friend
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:50 PM   #34
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Well the makers or j b weld claim there epoxy repaired a cat block. J b weld is a hillbilly s. Friend
Our shop mechanic is an old farmer, he told me a story once that him and his father cracked the block on one of their monster john deer tractors, and they fixed it with some jb weld and it ran for years.

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