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Old 01-09-2017, 05:10 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Dual function, water and wire. I like it .
Hence the Canadian term: "hydro."
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telsa View Post
Hence the Canadian term: "hydro."
'Hydro' is far more an inner city term than Canadian in my experience.

'Hydro' is the good chit!
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:38 PM   #23
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If I have unfinished basement underneath, I'll mount a 4 square and change over to MC if its exposed. I've used wiremold as well. The plastic sealtite works as well.
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:59 AM   #24
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Just curious because I do not do residential, but the standard practice for under cabinet lighting is running romex from cabinet to cabinet and then you use a sleeve to run your romex to the wall to get power?
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:02 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by nrp3 View Post
If I have unfinished basement underneath, I'll mount a 4 square and change over to MC if its exposed. I've used wiremold as well. The plastic sealtite works as well.
I've done mc and wiremold but never sealtite, seems like an expensive waste.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:13 PM   #26
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Apparently, many of you mount your U/C lights at the outer edge of the cabinet. If you mount them in the back, butted up to the wall, there are no sleeve issues.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:23 PM   #27
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By sealtite, I mean the plastic stuff without the metal corrugated inside.

Are we really worried about exposed romex on the bottom of a kitchen cabinet? Inside the cabinet I get, but feeding undercabinet lights? I typically mount to the back as he said anyway.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:25 PM   #28
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I have never sleeved romex coming out of the wall and going into an under cabinet light since I don't feel that is subjected to physical damage.

I am talking about when I run romex thru a cabinet.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:27 PM   #29
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Mistake.
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:11 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrp3 View Post
By sealtite, I mean the plastic stuff without the metal corrugated inside.

Are we really worried about exposed romex on the bottom of a kitchen cabinet? Inside the cabinet I get, but feeding undercabinet lights? I typically mount to the back as he said anyway.
Carflex (all plastic) in 3/8" is $2 per foot, 3/8" Greenfield is about $.28 per foot, plus it's thinner.

It's only inside a cabinet I'd sleeve it.
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:20 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by MechanicalDVR View Post
Carflex (all plastic) in 3/8" is $2 per foot, 3/8" Greenfield is about $.28 per foot, plus it's thinner.

It's only inside a cabinet I'd sleeve it.
IIRC, 1/2" is the smallest trade size permitted for field wiring.

A mere technicality in this instance, but there it is.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:08 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telsa View Post
IIRC, 1/2" is the smallest trade size permitted for field wiring.

A mere technicality in this instance, but there it is.
If you want small technicalities, no size of Greenfield is allowed for protecting NM. The general "conduit" protection method which allowed it was removed quite some time ago.
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:14 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telsa View Post
IIRC, 1/2" is the smallest trade size permitted for field wiring.

A mere technicality in this instance, but there it is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishbulb View Post
If you want small technicalities, no size of Greenfield is allowed for protecting NM. The general "conduit" protection method which allowed it was removed quite some time ago.
I don't know what either one of you are talking about. You can use anything to sleeve romex. It's not a raceway, it doesn't have to be listed or in the NEC.
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:30 AM   #34
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I don't know what either one of you are talking about. You can use anything to sleeve romex. It's not a raceway, it doesn't have to be listed or in the NEC.
Thanks, I have never heard any objection from an inspectior or engineer about Greenfield. I used 3/8" most often because I was using it most of the time for control wiring.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:52 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg7879 View Post
Just curious because I do not do residential, but the standard practice for under cabinet lighting is running romex from cabinet to cabinet and then you use a sleeve to run your romex to the wall to get power?
18/2 thermostat wire to the driver. The driver gets switched. Not a fan of 120V UC lighting.
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:34 PM   #36
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If I have unfinished basement underneath, I'll mount a 4 square and change over to MC if its exposed. I've used wiremold as well. The plastic sealtite works as well.
That method totally screws the next guy when going to finish the basement.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:16 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by HackWork View Post
I don't know what either one of you are talking about. You can use anything to sleeve romex. It's not a raceway, it doesn't have to be listed or in the NEC.
Previously that was arguably true. From the 2002 NEC:

Quote:
334.15 Exposed Work.
(B) The cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary by conduit, electrical metallic tubing, Schedule 80 PVC rigid nonmetallic conduit, pipe, guard strips, listed surface metal or nonmetallic raceway, or other means.
But changed in 2005 and later versions:

Quote:
334.15 Exposed Work.
(B) Protection from Physical Damage. Cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary by rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, electrical metallic tubing, Schedule 80 PVC rigid nonmetallic conduit, or other approved means.
Notice a couple of changes there?
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:50 PM   #38
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I try to stay away from anything with separate drivers or transformers. I have good luck with the 120v lighting I use. Not cheap but good. Most of the basements I work on don't end up being finished. I suppose I could get into the habit of just running those circuits in MC from end to end.
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:56 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishbulb View Post
Previously that was arguably true. From the 2002 NEC:



But changed in 2005 and later versions:



Notice a couple of changes there?
Yes, but the heading and first line are still the same:

"Exposed Work"

"The cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary"

When romex is ran thru plumbing pipe, a cigar holder, a fallopian tube, etc. it is not exposed nor is it subject to physical damage, and therefore it is not necessary to use rigid pipe or other such extreme methods to protect it.

Mikey mac mania man uses plywood to cover romex. Therefore it is not subject to physical damage and doesn't need an approved means of protection.
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Old 01-13-2017, 02:17 AM   #40
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I see no problem with using this to protect the romex. Especially awesome when it comes up underneath the sink to power the waste disposal unit. It just looks like it belongs there.

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