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07-13-2009, 10:28 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 46
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Low Volt Switches
i was just in a house built in '58, it has all low volt switches. in the attic there is a relay panels that has a bunch of 3 condutor wires in it and a bunch of relays.
tell me how to post a pic and i will
has anyone seen this before from that time period?
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07-13-2009, 10:32 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Beautiful Cumberland Valley, in PA
Posts: 5,846
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Yeah, sounds a lot like a GE RR-7 or RR-9 system with probably the GE rs2-32 switches or maybe touchplate switches.
Use the little  logo to paste images.
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07-13-2009, 10:47 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 46
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07-13-2009, 10:47 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 46
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duh that was easy
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07-13-2009, 10:51 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 633
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Yes Ge relays c/w red white and black wires right? Connected to momentary contact rocker switches and a 24vac transformer. The relays fit in a 1/2 in KO.
They used to be all over the place.. Mostly in Offices.
Sure you can still get them.
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07-13-2009, 10:52 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb
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Yuck.. Now thats ugly But they look like ge relays. Is there three low voltage wires or two? Looks like two from here.
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Last edited by Toronto Sparky; 07-13-2009 at 10:55 PM.
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07-13-2009, 10:53 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by MDShunk
Use the little [IMG
http://www.electriciantalk.com/images/editor/insertimage.gif[/IMG] logo to paste images.
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I thought you had to use Photobucket to post pics??
This is the first time I ever saw using the icon
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07-13-2009, 10:58 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 46
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with little research it seems to be touch plate
why would there be 12-3's going to the relay panel. i would just pull power to the light fixture then a 12-2 to the relay box to switch the hot. then an 18-2 or so to the LV switch.
cant figure out why there would be a 3 conductor in the relay box??????
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07-13-2009, 10:58 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Beautiful Cumberland Valley, in PA
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I think I spy a White-Rogers type Silent Operator, for controlling electric heat with a low voltage stat, attached to the bottom right of that junction box.
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07-13-2009, 11:01 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Ridge, Virginia
Posts: 2,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb
with little research it seems to be touch plate
why would there be 12-3's going to the relay panel. i would just pull power to the light fixture then a 12-2 to the relay box to switch the hot. then an 18-2 or so to the LV switch.
cant figure out why there would be a 3 conductor in the relay box??????
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I would use 14 guage romex since 12 guage is overkill and extremely unnecessary.
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07-13-2009, 11:03 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 46
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14awg whatever, i was getting @ the whole 3 wire thing. why would they bring a grounded conductor there if they did not need to. i assume there homerun goes to the light fixture. the panel looks normail and it obviously doesnt go to the switch so that leaves it going to the light fixture.
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07-13-2009, 11:15 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Ridge, Virginia
Posts: 2,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb
14awg whatever, i was getting @ the whole 3 wire thing. why would they bring a grounded conductor there if they did not need to. i assume there homerun goes to the light fixture. the panel looks normail and it obviously doesnt go to the switch so that leaves it going to the light fixture.
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not sure why they would do that. Doesn't seem to make sense other than that maybe they wanted to cover their asses just in case.
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07-13-2009, 11:33 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDShunk
I think I spy a White-Rogers type Silent Operator, for controlling electric heat with a low voltage stat, attached to the bottom right of that junction box.
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I noticed that too I just could not for the life of me remember what it's name was.  Guess 8 months outta the trade and I'm losing it.
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07-13-2009, 11:35 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
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Location: Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelersman
not sure why they would do that. Doesn't seem to make sense other than that maybe they wanted to cover their asses just in case.
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GE relays require an 18/3 from the switch to the relay as they contain two coils.. one on / one off
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Last edited by Toronto Sparky; 07-13-2009 at 11:37 PM.
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07-13-2009, 11:45 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Canada
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Been years since I worked with stand alone GE Relays but.. I do believe the red and black from the switch go to the red and black on the relay.. the white from each go to the 24vac on transformer. (switch is a single pole double throw momentary contact)
Most common failure was the switch getting stuck and burning out one of the coils in the relay.
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 Don't fight .. Play nice!
Last edited by Toronto Sparky; 07-13-2009 at 11:47 PM.
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07-14-2009, 07:34 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Ridge, Virginia
Posts: 2,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toronto Sparky
GE relays require an 18/3 from the switch to the relay as they contain two coils.. one on / one off
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I thought the OP was saying that there was 12/3 from the light fixtures to the relay cabinet.
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08-23-2009, 12:37 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: N California
Posts: 27
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low voltage switches FLASHBACK!!
It was 1964.
The light switches started failing in great numbers about 6 years after the house was built. My dad called the local electrician/plumber/HVAC guy because i was only 8 and he didn't trust me yet to do electrical work.
The guy he called was really neat! He let me watch him work and sent me to fetch tools. The problem turned out to be the black low voltage latching relays. The company that made them went out of business and GE had the only replacement on the market.
The electrican gave me an assignment to take apart some of the failed ones and report back how they worked and see if i could figure out what caused them to fail.
Wow this was my first real electrical project that didn't involve burning my fingers or getting in trouble!!
So I took them apart and found out that the 3 fat wires were needed because they had an internal transformer powered by the black and white wires. The red wire was the switched load. It looked like the contact was melted between the heavy black and red wires which caused the malfunction.
The GE replacements were a PITA. They had no internal transformer so a new transformer was needed for every 2-3 units that were replaced. This was bad because they were not located in one panel, but rather spread out in junction boxes throughout the attic. I still remember my dad cursing every time he went up in the attic and tripped over one of those transformers.
The new GE units made a rather nasty rasping noise when ever they were turned on or off.
Yes I did burn out 1 or 2 by holding the button in the on/off position for a really long time! But then I had to replace them and my allowance was used up in buying the parts.
EJPHI
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