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09-11-2009, 11:25 AM
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#81
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Badger
Yeah, your right, you are much more mature then the rest of us, your posts make that very clear.  |
your = you're
then = than
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09-11-2009, 12:19 PM
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#82
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child please.....
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hack City, USA aka New Orleans
Posts: 2,957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikheil
you wrapped it up pretty well.
we may just be talking to a handyman that has no clue of what the NEC code is. I feel sorry for his customers.
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Ever seen some of the pics of his work?...It's pretty clean looking.
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09-11-2009, 03:00 PM
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#83
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B4T Scotchkote installer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 4,455
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220/221 has 30+ years of experience and has posted plenty of pics to back it up 
He is not a hack or a "handy man" and has done jobs most of us would not want to attempt
Everyone here has their own views of what code articles a job should conform too.. right or wrong
How many here have buried a splice box inside the walls??? 
I have, because HO would not want $2000.00 in damages to run new wires 
Home Improvement contractors who "don't need an electrician" do it all the time 
I personally would never use standard wire nuts for a pig tailing job because of all the liability issues 
I would and did use Ideal Purple wire nuts on AL/AL connections
I also put all circuits on AFCI breakers to minimize what splice boxes might be hidden inside the walls, ceilings, and attic
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09-11-2009, 03:01 PM
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#84
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Not Peter D
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Eastern MA
Posts: 2,904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadSplice
your = you're
then = than
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What has two thumbs and does not give a crap?
Me.
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09-11-2009, 03:07 PM
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#85
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B4T Scotchkote installer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 4,455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Badger
What has two thumbs and does not give a crap?
Me. |
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09-14-2009, 12:22 AM
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#86
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,161
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Hi everybody
Quote:
we just have different ideas of where to draw the line.
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09-17-2009, 07:32 AM
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#87
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1
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There is a community of condos (over 150 owners) in CT where they are all Aluminum wiring. The issue just found out is the insurance company will not insure them anymore until the wiring is either replaced or copallum. The condo owners are now paying for new roads and they have to update the roofs due to major water issues throughout (they are flat roofs). They are already loaded with expenses right now. They are being told that there are approx. 6 electricians who do the copallum in CT. Is this true? Also, what is the best electrical solution for the community cost wise?
Thanks,
Paul
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09-17-2009, 08:54 AM
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#88
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B4T Scotchkote installer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 4,455
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Welcome to the forum
Why not use Ideal Purple wire nuts.. much easier
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09-17-2009, 09:51 AM
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#89
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 155
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Why not shop around for different insurance coverage?
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09-17-2009, 01:02 PM
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#90
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Senile Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 698
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Why not make sure all devices are rated for cu/al, and forget the pigtails in the first place? Then get another insurance policy. Changes to an existing al system such as adding copal pigtails is way more dangerous than leaving it alone in the first place....
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09-17-2009, 03:20 PM
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#91
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauliez3
The issue just found out is the insurance company will not insure them anymore until the wiring is either replaced or copallum. l
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Amp / Tyco has sure done a good job of spamming the internet with the notion that their overpriced proprietary crimp solution is the only option with aluminum wiring.
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09-17-2009, 03:23 PM
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#92
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Manchester, Verrmont
Posts: 171
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final, someone who is not afraid to speak his mind.
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09-17-2009, 04:42 PM
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#93
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B4T Scotchkote installer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 4,455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macmikeman
Why not make sure all devices are rated for cu/al, and forget the pigtails in the first place? Then get another insurance policy. Changes to an existing al system such as adding copal pigtails is way more dangerous than leaving it alone in the first place....
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Only problem is what do you do if the wires are really short.
If you pig tail with Ideal Purple wire nuts, you can use any devise you like
Do they even make a GFI that has terminals rated for AL wire???
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09-18-2009, 12:17 AM
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#94
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,161
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Quote:
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If you pig tail with Ideal Purple wire nuts, you can use any devise you like
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That's my line of reasoning.
I have one coming up next week. It's a typical small kitchen remodel but I noticed 1970's AL romex. I then looked around and saw that all the devices were not stock. I pulled a couple out and sure as sh!t they wrapped the terminals on copper devices.
I gave him a quote to pigtail everything with purple nuts. 
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10-29-2009, 10:56 PM
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#95
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: kentucky
Posts: 2,026
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aluminum to copper
I have used copper-tails, but only for terminations.
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10-29-2009, 10:59 PM
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#96
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B4T Scotchkote installer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 4,455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIVETER
I have used copper-tails, but only for terminations.
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If it was connected to AL.. you need to use Ideal Purple wire nuts or any approved connector
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10-29-2009, 11:07 PM
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#97
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: kentucky
Posts: 2,026
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aluminum to copper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black4Truck
If it was connected to AL.. you need to use Ideal Purple wire nuts or any approved connector
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I don't remember the manufacturer, but they were straight
thru butt splices with oxide inhibitors in the aluminum side. The insulation, which I did not like was kind of like ARMAFLEX, too soft.
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10-29-2009, 11:26 PM
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#98
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B4T Scotchkote installer
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Posts: 4,455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIVETER
I don't remember the manufacturer, but they were straight
thru butt splices with oxide inhibitors in the aluminum side. The insulation, which I did not like was kind of like ARMAFLEX, too soft.
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Never heard of them and I have been around the block about a dozen times looking for a UL approved device for AL - CU wire
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10-29-2009, 11:29 PM
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#99
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: kentucky
Posts: 2,026
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aluminum to copper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black4Truck
Never heard of them and I have been around the block about a dozen times looking for a UL approved device for AL - CU wire
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That is understandable...I went around thirteen times before I found them.
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10-30-2009, 12:02 AM
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#100
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Stiff Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sebring, FL
Posts: 129
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Ooh ooh I want to post on the resurrected old dead thread.
Care to dig it up and tell us? You're the only person who has seen these, so I'd hope you are just rousing us up before finally divulging what you've known all along. You sly devil you. Otherwise you didn't really add anything new to the conversation that everyone else didn't know.
Answers damnit! I want answers! DO I HAVE TO START USING CAPS LOCK?
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