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Old 10-30-2009, 12:35 PM   #101
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Thanks Partimer31. That web site is the best training manual I've ever seen on how the deal with the aluminum wiring problems of mobile homes. I don't do residential anymore, but use to. I used the de-ox when I connected copper pigtails, I'd have loved to know how to do it correctly. On my mom's home, I replaced all the aluminum with copper all the plugs because my repair failed again. I don't want to be responsible for burning down someones home because I tried to repair aluminum wiring that was going bad.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:23 PM   #102
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Since someone already dragged this old thread up again anyway, I have a few other tips for aluminum wiring.

The Ideal 65's are NOT rated for Al to Al, only Al to Cu.

The Lowe's nearby me also stocks the CU/ALR devices now. Leviton is the most widely available manufacturer. P&S doesn't want the liability apparantly.

I've used the Alumiconn lugs, and they are pretty easy to work with. The CPSA (the organization mentioned in all the Copalum-centric websites) is in the process of listing them as an approved method. They are already UL approved. Price-wise and time-wise they are similar to the purple Ideal 65's.

In EVERY house I've seen with aluminum wiring, there has been heat damage to the wire or cable in at least one bathroom receptacle. The load from a hair dryer is probably the worst possible thing you can put on an aluminum circuit. Kitchen receptacles often show heat damage as well. Lighting circuits almost never. The heat damage often extends far past the box down the cable, in which case pigtailing is no longer an option.

I've done quite a few aluminum wiring abatements or partial abatements with pigtailing, and have done quite a bit of research into aluminum wiring in general lately. I am working on a blog detailing my research and experience with aluminum wiring, and if anyone wants, I can PM them the link to it as soon as I'm done.

Last edited by MarkyMark; 11-03-2009 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:47 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkyMark View Post
The Ideal 65's are NOT rated for Al to Al, only Al to Cu, but the Marette 63's ARE rated for Al to Al, and are fairly cheap comparatively. These are the same small black wire nuts you see in existing aluminum installations. I've occaisionally seen them at Lowe's. Many supply houses have them as well.
I could not find any info about "Marette" being UL approved

Only place who carries them according to my supply house is Canada because they are approved only there

http://www.tnb-canada.com/en/catalog..._marrcat_e.pdf
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Old 10-31-2009, 02:58 PM   #104
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I could not find any info about "Marette" being UL approved

Only place who carries them according to my supply house is Canada because they are approved only there

http://www.tnb-canada.com/en/catalog..._marrcat_e.pdf
I stand corrected sir. Marette 63's are not UL listed. I will edit the previous post.
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Old 10-31-2009, 05:04 PM   #105
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I may get sh!t on for saying this, but the odd time I have come across aluminum wiring in buildings (yes aluminum single strand UGH) I have used a can twist marrette I filled with no-alox. Saying that, if I had of had proper marrettes for the purpose I would have used them.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:42 PM   #106
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What would you do if it was your house??

They don't make a wire nut that is UL approved for AL/AL splices

My choices are either leave a 40 year old wire nut on the neutrals in a switch or use a Purple

I don't think that adding a copper element to an AL splice has any mystical powers to make it "approved"

I am also adding arc fault breakers to all circuits mandated in the NEC
Didn't mean to ambush you B4T, real bad day that day. My house? Pretty much a concensus of what every one else brought up.
1) Al/Cu rated devices
2) Clean up the makeup, get rid of excess connections and pigtails.
3) I use the alumiconns (tourqed) for al to cu connections.
4) For nuetrals and other al to al connections I use ordinary wire nuts, I dope them with deox because the threads are not alum (why risk corrosion). I replace the old ones, visually inspecting damn near every connection.
5) Don't expect to fly through a house, it's generally a pain in the ass with short cut conductors and undersized grounds wrapped around the cable clamp screw.

Aluminum is a good conductor but you have to get the connections right. In the last few years I've done 90 townhomes pigtail/AFI/service change. The HOA required the work to avoid an insurance rate hike. We lost money because one apprentice drove a ground rod through the laterals and another forgot to plug a freezer back in. About half the units had a 15 amp three wire home run we didn't bid for. No one ended up happy, we finished it because we'd bid it, our estimator ( who found the work) quit months into it. A couple HOs used other electricians, both failed inspection and lost money eventually asking us how to pass and how to make any money.

It came down to money really and the purples are expensive so why waste them? I see them misused all the time like on cu/cu connections in exterior fixtures. $5...10...15...20 LOL.
I have made money at this in the past, but now I hate it and avoid it, hopefully this helps others do better at it.
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:50 PM   #107
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[quote=Black4Truck;116029]What would you do if it was your house??

I would use no-ox in regular nuts. That's if it was in my house.
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