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Old 02-08-2011, 06:48 AM   #1
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Default wiring new icf home

fixing to start a new icf home does any body know of a site that has some info on this application

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Old 02-08-2011, 06:49 AM   #2
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Ug... a glutton for punishment, I see.

Not too much info out there. A little bit on this site is about as much as you'll see in any one place.

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Old 02-08-2011, 06:51 AM   #3
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fixing to start a new icf home does any body know of a site that has some info on this application


I've done a bunch of them. Any openings on the exterior walls will get the polystyrene troughed out for the wires to pass. X3 your normal time for any openings in the foam. They're fun but messy
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:57 AM   #4
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I've done a bunch of them. Any openings on the exterior walls will get the polystyrene troughed out for the wires to pass. X3 your normal time for any openings in the foam. They're fun but messy
Do you use that special hot knife tool, a router, or some other implement of destruction?
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:10 PM   #5
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Do you use that special hot knife tool, a router, or some other implement of destruction?
Electric chain saw. Run a long bolt through the bar so it serves as a depth guide.
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:47 PM   #6
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Do you use that special hot knife tool, a router, or some other implement of destruction?

I've found a sawzall to work the best. The router is too messy, although it makes a slightly better looking cut. But once you foam in your wires, who cares?

The hotknife makes fumes

A sawzall can make two parallel cuts, let the blad go all the way back and bounce off the cement. Then remove chunk of foam . Lay wire in place. Hilti shot one hole straps to the cement and get inspection. After inspection, spray foam the troughes.
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:54 PM   #7
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I've found a sawzall to work the best. The router is too messy, although it makes a slightly better looking cut. But once you foam in your wires, who cares?

The hotknife makes fumes

A sawzall can make two parallel cuts, let the blad go all the way back and bounce off the cement. Then remove chunk of foam . Lay wire in place. Hilti shot one hole straps to the cement and get inspection. After inspection, spray foam the troughes.
A chainsaw makes the perfect sized slot for the wire to stay in place without fastening. i just take some scrap wire and wedge it in for inspection. Foam afterwards. All done.
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Old 02-08-2011, 01:38 PM   #8
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Electric chain saw. Run a long bolt through the bar so it serves as a depth guide.
Great minds think alike.

Cut the boxes in with a drywall saw, use pieces of that foam to wedge into the trough holding your wire after.

What are you guys using for boxes. We use the Iberville 2104 lssax as that is all we have found that will work. They are normally used for steel studs.
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Old 02-08-2011, 02:01 PM   #9
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Great minds think alike.

Cut the boxes in with a drywall saw, use pieces of that foam to wedge into the trough holding your wire after.

What are you guys using for boxes. We use the Iberville 2104 lssax as that is all we have found that will work. They are normally used for steel studs.

I just use a normal 4sq. Ramset to 'crete. Mud ring to required depth.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:18 PM   #10
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A chainsaw makes the perfect sized slot for the wire to stay in place without fastening. i just take some scrap wire and wedge it in for inspection. Foam afterwards. All done.


They won't let us get away without fastening here. Even if i cut the slots to fit the wire tightly, they still require strapping within the 8" or 12" rules. I argued with them about it because after the foam, it will be secure. Their argument was it's not secure at the time of rough in
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Old 02-08-2011, 09:49 PM   #11
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guys thanks for the info this is a new one on me . all sound like good ideas ill give them all a try and see what works best for me.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:28 PM   #12
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I just use a normal 4sq. Ramset to 'crete. Mud ring to required depth.
we use 2104lle and spray foam them into place. Just make sure you block them so the foam doesnt push the boxes out
Also we spray foam the slot and once its set, then we call for an inspection.
have been using the sawzall method but have been considering the electric chainsaw
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:40 PM   #13
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Our work uses skill saw with a dado blade. Easily set the depth and gives you the width you need. Drywall saw for box cutouts
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:57 PM   #14
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They won't let us get away without fastening here. Even if i cut the slots to fit the wire tightly, they still require strapping within the 8" or 12" rules. I argued with them about it because after the foam, it will be secure. Their argument was it's not secure at the time of rough in

So when you run NM through the holes you drilled in studs, they won't accept that either?
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:43 AM   #15
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Use the hot knife (I think it is called a foam scoop). It works fast and doesn't leave any mess like a saw would. I have done several of these and the foam dust will get all over you, other workers and the job site if you use a saw blade of any kind. Static electricity will make it nearly impossible to brush off. The cleanup afterwards is a bitch.
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Old 02-09-2011, 12:27 PM   #16
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So when you run NM through the holes you drilled in studs, they won't accept that either?


Of course they would. It's plainly written in the NEC the hole would count as support. It's not, however, plainly written that jamming in between two pieces of styrofoam would count as support.


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we use 2104lle and spray foam them into place. Just make sure you block them so the foam doesnt push the boxes out
Also we spray foam the slot and once its set, then we call for an inspection.
have been using the sawzall method but have been considering the electric chainsaw


Around here, foaming the slots before inspection would be no different than drywalling a wall before a rough in inspection

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