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Old 06-29-2011, 01:07 PM   #1
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Default Noalox (anti-oxidant)

Code reference? is there one?

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Old 06-29-2011, 01:54 PM   #2
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110.3(B) you only need to use an antioxidant compound if the manufacturer requires its use. Either the wire manufacture or the equipment manufacture.

Most likely you will not need to use it.

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Old 06-29-2011, 01:58 PM   #3
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In my world if it's aluminum inspectors want to see it on there. Never seen one look to see if it's actually at point of contact... They just want to see it...
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:02 PM   #4
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In my world if it's aluminum inspectors want to see it on there. Never seen one look to see if it's actually at point of contact... They just want to see it...
There are lots of inspectors that want to see NoAlox smeared all over the lugs but that does not mean that it is required.

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Old 06-29-2011, 03:07 PM   #5
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There are lots of inspectors that want to see NoAlox smeared all over the lugs but that does not mean that it is required.

Chris
and to really do it proper, you need to get into the individual conductors of the cable, not just the surface
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:37 PM   #6
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and to really do it proper, you need to get into the individual conductors of the cable, not just the surface
Yep, that's why I peel the label off all my no ox. The instructions say to work it into the cable using Emory cloth. How many of us do that? I take off the label so an inspector wont pick the bottle up and read it, and then ask if I did that. So all my no ox bottles have no labels...
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:42 PM   #7
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Yep, that's why I peel the label off all my no ox. The instructions say to work it into the cable using Emory cloth. How many of us do that? I take off the label so an inspector wont pick the bottle up and read it, and then ask if I did that. So all my no ox bottles have no labels...
Ask the inspector where NoAlox is required.

I have not seen any new panel manufactures that require the use of an antioxidant compound on the lugs when using Aluminum wire.

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Old 06-29-2011, 03:45 PM   #8
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and to really do it proper, you need to get into the individual conductors of the cable, not just the surface
Exactly, I know of inspectors area my area that want to see NoAlox on all aluminum terminations and don't care if someone just applies the stuff on the lug after the wires are terminated.

Gooping antioxidant paste on a terminated lug is a huge waste of time and makes a hell of a mess. But that makes some inspectors all warm and fuzzy and able to sleep at night.

(End Rant)

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Old 06-29-2011, 04:17 PM   #9
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I have used a wire brush to put it on once...It makes a huge mess...I never even use the stuff anymore...but its funny everyone says that, b/c they all want to see it on the lugs like its a code or something...
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:03 PM   #10
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I dip my aluminum conductors in it. Doesn't cost much and could help some. Why not use it? Aluminum doesn't conduct well when it oxidizes. Compared to copper which does conduct when it oxidizes.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:07 PM   #11
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I dip my aluminum conductors in it. Doesn't cost much and could help some. Why not use it? Aluminum doesn't conduct well when it oxidizes. Compared to copper which does conduct when it oxidizes.
My understanding is doing that really does nothing. You need to use something abrasive to work it into the wire...
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:13 PM   #12
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My understanding is doing that really does nothing. You need to use something abrasive to work it into the wire...
I don't know, can't hurt. I figure I'm at least decreasing the chance of corrosion. I work the Noalox up to the wire insulation and try to get it on all the wire surface. I like the clearish stuff. The Ideal stuff is pretty nasty.

I've had good luck with coating my battery terminals with Permatex anti corrosion spray. I don't wire brush it on. I know not the same thing but it seems similar.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:40 PM   #13
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My understanding is doing that really does nothing. You need to use something abrasive to work it into the wire...
You're not working it into the wire... you're removing the oxidation layer and the goop is not allowing it to re-form.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:07 PM   #14
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You're not working it into the wire... you're removing the oxidation layer and the goop is not allowing it to re-form.
There is always one. I'll leave it at that
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:19 PM   #15
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That's one of those things I just do instead of arguing about it.

Just squeeze a dab after termination so they see it.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:25 PM   #16
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One thing I hadn't thought about was the POCO doesn't use Noalox when they connect over head drops in my area. If it was a real problem you would think that you would see more problems with the overhead terminations. Maybe I am just wasting time and making a mess. Or maybe there is some of the stuff inside their connectors..
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:28 PM   #17
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That's one of those things I just do instead of arguing about it.

Just squeeze a dab after termination so they see it.

You're looking to raise a few flags here, correct? I know you're not serious.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:54 PM   #18
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I haven't put noalox on lugs in quite a long time. Like Raider said usually not required.



I've done the same as 220 if I'm dealing with an inspector I know will bitch and I just want the job passed and don't feel like arguing.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:57 PM   #19
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These guys are right.
Its a recomendation by some manufacturers. Or should I say - it used to be a recomendation by some manufacturers.

I use it. I dont know why I dont throw it away. Having the proper torque on the connections is much more important in my view.
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Old 06-29-2011, 09:39 PM   #20
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I see it inside these. Thomas & Betts Blackburn Description:2-2 Serv Ent Splice

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