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Old 10-21-2016, 07:56 PM   #1
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Default Under cabinet lighting

What are you guys using for under cabonet lighting. I have some lady asking me to do a few but would be my first supply and install for this. I have installed xenon undercabinet fixtures but that was like 20 years ago.
Should I go LED or stick to T5?
Should I go with the brightest I can find?
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Old 10-21-2016, 08:04 PM   #2
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I still use the zenons occasionally and like them. Usually use LEDs though.
I think they're Electromart. They come with a useless box connector and a
hole that's too small for a grey plastic connector. Have to remember to
bring a hole punch when I'm doing these.
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edit: Regarding brightness, I don't pay attention to this. Just
install the length(s) that best suits the cupboards.
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Old 10-21-2016, 08:26 PM   #3
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The halogens melt the butter left on the counter. Go LED as wide as will fit under each cabinet.
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Old 10-21-2016, 08:32 PM   #4
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Hate extra low voltage. Hate puck lights.
P&L
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Old 10-21-2016, 08:37 PM   #5
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I have always liked fluorescent UC lights, so I want to find LED's that are inexpensive and give out the same type of light with no hotspots and flare reflections.
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Old 10-21-2016, 08:57 PM   #6
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With so many brands its hard to choose. I would prefer to use something low voltage. I think I'm going to install a switched receptacle under the cabinets for the transformer.
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Old 10-21-2016, 11:31 PM   #7
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Don't bother with anything but LED. Best bang for the buck is...wait for it...Ikea! Seriously, pricing is good, easy to install and you can put lots of sticks on a driver.
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Old 10-22-2016, 10:42 AM   #8
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Don't bother with anything but LED. Best bang for the buck is...wait for it...Ikea! Seriously, pricing is good, easy to install and you can put lots of sticks on a driver.
I got a price from my lighting supplier. They sell 120V strips in 1,2,3,4 foot lengths. $18,$27,$33,$38 respectively.
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Old 10-22-2016, 11:36 AM   #9
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I got a price from my lighting supplier. They sell 120V strips in 1,2,3,4 foot lengths. $18,$27,$33,$38 respectively.
Are those the ones that look like the old xenon but are LED? I have seen them but for some reason I don't like them. I like the lovo sticks and using thermostat wire.
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Are those the ones that look like the old xenon but are LED? I have seen them but for some reason I don't like them. I like the lovo sticks and using thermostat wire.
I'm not sure what they look like but theyre led. Which ikea lights do you use?
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:42 PM   #11
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I'm not sure what they look like but theyre led. Which ikea lights do you use?
I use the Omlopp with the Ansluta driver. Be sure to order the power cord for the driver.
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Old 10-22-2016, 01:02 PM   #12
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When using low voltage wire where do you hide the xfmr for cabinets that go to the ceiling?
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Old 10-22-2016, 01:07 PM   #13
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I'd much rather have 120v UC lights.
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Old 10-22-2016, 01:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I use the Omlopp with the Ansluta driver. Be sure to order the power cord for the driver.
How far do you space them apart?
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Old 10-22-2016, 02:38 PM   #15
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I use LED self adhesive tape light. Mount the dimmable driver in the upper cabinet above the microwave and run 2 conductor tstat wire to the underside of the cabinet. Then clear 2 sided gorilla tape to hold wire and splice up underneath.


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Old 10-22-2016, 04:10 PM   #16
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I use LED self adhesive tape light. Mount the dimmable driver in the upper cabinet above the microwave and run 2 conductor tstat wire to the underside of the cabinet. Then clear 2 sided gorilla tape to hold wire and splice up underneath.


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What do you use to make the splices?
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Old 10-22-2016, 04:12 PM   #17
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I generally use LED strip lights from CSL lighting but occasionally use LED tape lighting.

Started using the tape lighting for bookcases and glass door cabinets instead of puck lights. Inside of cabinets I install it vertically.
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Old 10-22-2016, 05:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
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When using low voltage wire where do you hide the xfmr for cabinets that go to the ceiling?
If I can go downstairs to an unfinished area, I will. Otherwise, in a useless cabinet like the one above the fridge. If there is space behind a drawer, put it there. Butt splices and tie wraps with sticky backs to make it pretty.

I know a guy who knows a guy who cuts off the cord end and hard wires it to get around the arc fault rule.
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Old 10-22-2016, 05:33 PM   #19
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Butt splice and heat shrink on the wire and they make a tap to go on the contacts of the tape light. The one I use are cutable every 2".


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Old 10-22-2016, 06:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I'd much rather have 120v UC lights.
Romex to UC lights is ugly.
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