If the motor is dual-voltage (115/230), all windings are 115 volt.
If the windings are numbered, and there's one start winding, there'll be 6 wires out. We'll ignore stuff like capacitors, overloads, and start switches. Typically, these wires are labeled T1, T2, T3, T4, T5, and T8. (T6 and T7 are internal wires connected to the capacitor and start switch.)
T1 and T2 are one of the run windings, T3 and T4 are the other. T5 and T8 are the start winding.
If we connect T2 and T3 together, and apply 230 volts to T1 and T4, each winding will see 115 volts. What about the start winding? There's only one, and nothing to series connect it to.
Since the run windings are wound on the same core (the stator), they'll act like a transformer. Meaning that they'll maintain constant voltage. Therefore, the start winding can be placed in parallel with one of the run windings. Usually, it's T3 and T4.
The obvious problem here is that if T3 and T4 are paralleled with T5 and T8, and these are series connected to T1 and T2, the current through T1 and T2 will be huge during starting. One solution (usually found on larger motors, 2HP and up) is to have two start windings. In this case, one start winding parallels with T1 and T2, the other with T3 and T4.
A motor with two start windings typically has more starting torque, and the start windings can be engaged for a much longer time, but it's more costly to build.
Rob
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