noobapprentice

Willing be doing this soon and a lot of it apparently so want to start off strong.

30 amp breaker box in the basement and a dryer outlet that is 240v. How should I go about converting so there are 120v outlets available?

randomkiller

Not to bust your balls but if you're an apprentice why haven't you asked the JW that you work with about this? And as even a 1st year apprentice you should know that you need a neutral to get 120v, so think about what you need to add to get what you desire there.

__________________
A Veteran - whether active duty, retired, guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."

"One Nation Under God"

Speedy Petey

I agree. This is stuff your journeymen or school are supposed to be teaching you.

mollydog

run a few extension cords............. but oh wait theres more, make sure they are ul listed

electricista

I guess it would depend on the wiring, What type wiring? How many conductors? etc. 240 can mean just 240 with no neutral and no ground. Or it can have a neutral and no ground or it can have a neutral with a ground.
Are you planning on doing away with the dryer?

mikeg_05

Sounds like a side job gone bad

MDShunk

Probably easiest to throw the 120/240 switch the other direction:

__________________

Peter D

Do they make a 277/480 version of that as well?

TOOL_5150

~Matt

__________________
I would rather beg for forgiveness then beg for permission.

480sparky

Yep!

__________________
This message is hidden because Forgery, Honda Racer, JackBoot, LawnGuyLandSparky, milehiwire and user 5941 are on your ignore list.

Peter D

No transformer required! Just $11.99 at your local electrical supplies dealer!

480sparky

They're only $7.99 at Home Cheapo!

__________________
This message is hidden because Forgery, Honda Racer, JackBoot, LawnGuyLandSparky, milehiwire and user 5941 are on your ignore list.

micromind

Actually, I have done switches somewhat similar to this for dual-voltage single phase motors on construction tools. Like air compressors, table saws, etc.

Some of the older Dewalt radial arm saws came from the factory with a dual voltage switch. Anyone who has used woodworking tools much knows they are considerably more powerful on 240 than 120. Especially when using a long extension cord.

Rob

480sparky

I'd like to see how they get away with using a single NEMA cord cap for both 120 and 240.

__________________
This message is hidden because Forgery, Honda Racer, JackBoot, LawnGuyLandSparky, milehiwire and user 5941 are on your ignore list.

TOOL_5150

an L14-30 has 120v and 240v avalible. - but I get your point.

~mATT

__________________
I would rather beg for forgiveness then beg for permission.

480sparky

If you've got an L14-30 receptacle, you've got 240. Why run it at 120?

If you've only got a 120 receptacle, how do you plug it in?

__________________
This message is hidden because Forgery, Honda Racer, JackBoot, LawnGuyLandSparky, milehiwire and user 5941 are on your ignore list.

micromind

It would certainly never get a UL listing these days, but I remember many years ago (in the 60's when I was just a kid) that most of the Dewalt 10" and 12" radial arm saws had a dual voltage switch on the end of the motor. The cord plugs were the 6-15 type (15 amp 250 volt straight blade), and everyone had an adapter that had a 125 volt plug and a 250 volt connector.

They also had adapters for twist-lock, dryer recpts, range recpts, etc.

You have to remember, this was the 60's, people actually had common sense back then. There wasn't a rule for everything, you learned how to use stuff like this on the job.

Rob

MF Dagger

Just tape one wire white