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Carbide Cutters

9K views 62 replies 19 participants last post by  telsa 
#1 ·
I'm lazy and don't feel like taking my KO set with me when I need to make a hole or two. I have holesaws, but I would rather get a good carbide cutter in 1-1/4" and 2" KO sizes.

I've heard a lot of good things about them. What brand do you recommend? Greenlee? Ideal?
 
#2 ·
we bought several of the ideal sets several years ago. worked out great, although careless guys will still eat them up by overspeeding and not bothering to put a drop of oil on them (gives them much longer life).

For lots of holes (production), ko set still is best imo though.
 
#3 ·
we bought several of the ideal sets several years ago. worked out great, although careless guys will still eat them up by overspeeding and not bothering to put a drop of oil on them (gives them much longer life).
Thanks. I'll checkout the Ideals.
For lots of holes (production), ko set still is best imo though.
Agreed. But I am talking about 1 or 2 holes. I figure it's not worth digging out the KO set and carrying it in when I am going to need the drill anyway.
 
#6 ·
I just want to bump this, I still haven't gotten around to buying them but would like to do it now.

Unfortunately it seems that buying just the 2" and 1-1/4" KO sizes will be very expensive. I am wondering if it's worth it over just using a $12-15 holesaw.

This is only for the odd hole. I don't want to have to carry a KO set into a basement just to make 1 hole in a panel. Especially since I have to drill a hole for the KO set anyway, why not just drill the right size hole the first time.
 
#10 ·
That still needs a drill and holesaw, so why not just drill the right size hole the first time? It's only one hole. Plus, I don't have a big impact gun anymore, and if I did I wouldn't want to bring yet another tool in.

I'm trying to be faster and more efficient.
 
#16 ·
I have the Ideal set... I'll send it to you... POS carbide cutters... I have the teeth fall out of 3 1/2" sets in the last two months.

I think I am going to try the Greenlee set.
 
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#20 ·
I've seen a few people say that the Ideal are great. If I remember correctly, they were the first to market with them. So you having issues with them are exactly why I am debating spending the money and thinking about just using a normal holesaw.
 
#17 ·
Save the money from the carbide cutters and just buy a set of those Milwaukee steel hole saws that I talked about and somebody else posted the picture of. They cut panels fast enough and keep sharp if you put em in an impact gun and just short burst the gun thru the metal. They work terrific and have earned the macmikeman seal of approval , a lofty prize indeed!
 
#18 ·
The main reason I see to buy the carbide cutters is stainless steel. For residential work, where stainless is scarce, and needing to cut similar size holes through lumber is common, I'm skeptical you'll see a good return from these.

I do however encourage you to ignore the negative comments above and buy them. The Champion brand comes highly recommended from a local industrial supply that sells to a lot of industrial maintenance and machine shops, these hammerheads love cutting metal. It's made in USA.

https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Carbide-Cutters-Non-Ferrous-Materials/dp/B00PSO76W8

https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Carbide-Cutters-Non-Ferrous-Materials/dp/B00PSO7LKU

You really ought to buy a whole set, you'll be disappointed if you only buy two sizes then you need another one some time.

https://www.amazon.com/Champion-CT5P-SET-1-Carbide-Electrical-Conduit/dp/B001TREZ2W

In anticipation of the thread on Electrician Swap I'd like to be the first to offer you thirty cents on the dollar based on the lowest eBay / Amazon price I claim I've ever seen.
 
#22 ·
I've had nothing but good experiences with the Greenlee set posted earlier. I'd always used a Unibit before, but I've torn up a couple drill transmissions with it. Once I switched to the carbide cutters, I stopped breaking drills. I've been using the same set a couple years and haven't worn out any of them.
 
#48 ·
I have Ideals, Lenox and champion. The Ideals and the champions cut better quality holes but the Lenox cutters seem to have tougher teeth.

Doesn't really matter though if you can find a local sharpening shop, I take mine in for either sharpening or if I break teeth they braze in new carbide.
 
#53 ·
Couple of upsides to these that I have not seen posted anywhere so I figured I would chime in:
The biggest argument to using these versus a hole saw is that the TKO makes a concentric knock out where a unibit/hole saw does not (for those wondering the difference between the two is whether or not you have to use a grounding bushing if running conduit). I DO UNDERSTAND THAT THIS IS BEING VERY PARTICULAR BUT IF YOU'RE NOT TAKING PRIDE IN HOW YOU DO YOUR WORK I AM NOT INTERESTED IN THE DISCUSSION THAT WILL FOLLOW. I ALSO UNDERSTAND THAT THE CORRECTLY SIZED UNIBIT IS CAPABLE OF A CONCENTRIC KO
Second upside is that TKO bits will work should you have to drill a hole overlapping any other KO's without making a complete mess of the panel.
When we were expanding the 1/2"-1" conduit size TKO set was purchased for any new van that was outfitted without exception. I


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#59 ·
I'm guessing he really means a close fitting hole.

Sometimes you get guys that nuts with a bit metal saw and you get some sloppy jagged ass oval the connector barely stays in.

Hole saw tip, replace the pilot bot with either a piece of 1/4" rod or get a long 1/4" bit with partial flutes so the flutes stop before the saw. Makes much cleaner holes in thin stuff when you don't have the pilot bit wearing it's hole out and letting the saw drift.
 
#63 ·
I'm guessing he really means a close fitting hole.

Sometimes you get guys that nuts with a bit metal saw and you get some sloppy jagged ass oval the connector barely stays in.

Hole saw tip, replace the pilot bot with either a piece of 1/4" rod or get a long 1/4" bit with partial flutes so the flutes stop before the saw. Makes much cleaner holes in thin stuff when you don't have the pilot bit wearing it's hole out and letting the saw drift.
Re-purpose a broken Bell hanger bit.

I always use a two-step process.

Pilot hole with a Tek strew followed by a 1/4" puppy.

Then comes a solid shaft 'pilot' that does not wander -- as it has no flutes to %$#@ up the pilot hole.

But, most often, for panels -- I go with the Greenlee 1731.

If I need a big KO, I start with 1" and take it the rest of the way with the usual Greenlee stuff.
 
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