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Old 10-08-2017, 05:53 PM   #1
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Default 0-10 volt dimmers

So, I've only been retired a year or two and I'm already out of touch.

Zero to 10 volt dimmers? Would that be like an electronic low voltage dimmer or is a whole new system for LED's?

Also, hanging bathroom fixtures on full wall mirrors is still the suck.
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:44 PM   #2
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0-10 VDC dimmers are not really that new, but are starting to make it into the consumer market. Nice thing about it all you need is the low voltage wire for the switch. Need special 0-10 volt dimming switches however. Also must get polarity correct or they won't work.

Cheers

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Old 10-08-2017, 06:52 PM   #3
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With these there's a 0-10v input on the ballast or driver. This way the dimmer is on a separate low voltage circuit where the dimmer setting sets the voltage from 0 to 10.

For example:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...Vsubmittal.pdf
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Old 10-08-2017, 07:32 PM   #4
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I've used them, but what is the advantage?
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Old 10-08-2017, 08:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splatz View Post
With these there's a 0-10v input on the ballast or driver. This way the dimmer is on a separate low voltage circuit where the dimmer setting sets the voltage from 0 to 10.

For example:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...Vsubmittal.pdf
Thanks. I had zero understanding of the concept.

The dimmer is ON a new circuit or the dimmer creates a new circuit. The dimmer is powered by 120V, right?


I can see the system making sense in some installations. For example, in a commercial installation, we must use EMT/MC etc. If you could use LV cable for the switch legs, it would make some installations easier. It would be handy for retail display cases where there isn't room for MC cable.


Quote:
Also must get polarity correct or they won't work.
Purple and gray are the new black and white

Last edited by 220/221; 10-08-2017 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 10-08-2017, 10:22 PM   #6
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Light / driver is powered with 120V. Switch leg is either 120V (on/off) or 0-10VDC (0% to 100%). I have used the Diva dimmers as they were spec'd and I needed both voltages at the switch, where other dimmers only need the 0-10VDC.

Check your switch requirements ahead of wiring - some lights will only work with certain switches too... a bit of a PIA actually.

Cheers

John
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 220/221 View Post
Thanks. I had zero understanding of the concept.

The dimmer is ON a new circuit or the dimmer creates a new circuit. The dimmer is powered by 120V, right?
Well in this particular example, there's three steps - the line voltage supply that powers the lights also powers a power pack, which is a 24V power supply; the 24V output of the power supply runs the dimmer, which makes the 0-10V.

The way I see the advantages - with regular incandescent lights, a dimmer that's a simple pot in series with the circuit makes sense and works fine, doesn't work as well with fluorescent or LED drivers. With these devices making a simple reliable dimmer that works in series on the ballast / driver supply is not an easy trick. So with the ballast / driver getting smarter, it figures out what to do to dim based on a generic vanilla 0-10V input.

So you save on the cost of wiring the switch legs yes but you also get a better dimming.

If the dimmers go to a building automation system or just a fancier ballast / driver, the ballast can do tricks like adjust automatically for the light coming in the windows. Some of this hocus pocus is actually required by some of the energy efficiency standards.
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:08 AM   #8
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You need to use a dimmer that is rated 0-10v.... You need 120v at the light as well as low voltage wires.

Southwire makes a metallic cable that has all 4 wires specifically for this install.
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Old 10-09-2017, 09:17 AM   #9
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It is seriously one of the dumbest ****ing concepts they have ever come out with. Maybe it would work on some huge assed jobs where there are multiple circuits involved but nine times out of ten it is just stupid. Not to mention a pain in the asss.
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Old 10-09-2017, 09:39 AM   #10
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It is seriously one of the dumbest ****ing concepts they have ever come out with. Maybe it would work on some huge assed jobs where there are multiple circuits involved but nine times out of ten it is just stupid. Not to mention a pain in the asss.
It definitely sucks on a retro fit when there is no way to get another pair in the ceiling.
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Old 10-09-2017, 02:06 PM   #11
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I love 0-10v dimming. Yes it's more complicated to wire, but it means that you can dim different types of led lights with the same dimmer. You could have a switch that controls some troffers, some pots, maybe some wall sconces, even a couple of tracks, without having to make sure they're all going to get along with the same line voltage dimming technology (leading edge, trailing edge, ELV, MLV, etc). As long as you know what you're getting during rough-in (or you wire for the worst-case scenario), it works great. LED lighting is still a bit wild west, and it's hard to make all the pieces work together. IMO 0-10v dimming goes a long way to making that a little easier.

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Old 10-09-2017, 02:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
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You need to use a dimmer that is rated 0-10v.... You need 120v at the light as well as low voltage wires.

WTF?

I'll pass on this system

The fixture I installed dimmed down to about 50%. Good enough for me
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:43 PM   #13
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We got around having to pull extra wires by using Lutron Vive modules at each fixture and short runs of wire at the fixture to handle the 0-10v dimming. Highbays in a hangar. Used Pico wireless controllers at the entry doors to control them.
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:56 PM   #14
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Done a few commercial office locations with 0-10v dimming. Always used power and control mc to cover our butts.

http://www.southwire.com/products/35959.htm
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:18 PM   #15
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. Used Pico wireless controllers at the entry doors to control them.
This job also had some Pico dimmers . I didn't want to learn anything new so I installed them and told them, "if they don't work, you need to do the research".


SIde note....They also had a pretty slick motion detector light/camera/wifi that sends an alert and activates a microphone/speaker so you can interact via cell phone. I think I'll pick up a couple for my house exterior. .

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Old 10-09-2017, 08:40 PM   #16
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I?m terrible when it comes to programming timers etc. The Lutron picos pair easily.
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