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Old 05-30-2017, 10:59 AM   #21
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No I meant your idea of DPDTs would work unless you had to wire a four way as well. A regular four way is a DPDT with the throws jumpered cross wise. I am getting an ice cream headache trying to think of how you'd accomplish that with both phases
Oh yeah, a two pole 4-way would be... quite a sight to see. Four wires in, four out, hrm, four pole double throw with some jumpering? That's not fitting on a single gang yoke.

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Old 05-30-2017, 11:11 AM   #22
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Oh yeah, a two pole 4-way would be... quite a sight to see. Four wires in, four out, hrm, four pole double throw with some jumpering? That's not fitting on a single gang yoke.

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Just dont go there with that dang arrangement otherwise I will send ya few mangos to ya to get my message ( lol ) the handyman will faint on this one but for us we just kinda sholder on .,, Oh well .,,
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Old 05-30-2017, 12:28 PM   #23
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Oh yeah, a two pole 4-way would be... quite a sight to see. Four wires in, four out, hrm, four pole double throw with some jumpering? That's not fitting on a single gang yoke.

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What a goat rope. Either use a contactor with a 120v coil or a buck/boost xfmr to make it 277v with a neutral if you have to switch both hots. At least that would be recognizeable by the electricians coming behind you.
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Old 05-30-2017, 12:48 PM   #24
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What a goat rope. Either use a contactor with a 120v coil or a buck/boost xfmr to make it 277v with a neutral if you have to switch both hots. At least that would be recognizeable by the electricians coming behind you.
Buck-boost won't do. You need total isolation to provide a grounded leg.

The whole idea of chasing 240 VAC is nuts.

120 VAC and modern electronic ballasts get the job done without any further complication.

The OP appears to be troll-work... as the OP claims to having been wiring up said circuits for years, ( PM ) but now is concerned about whether it's up to Code. Heh.

The modern janitor is NOT expecting to deal with a hot leg while he's fiddling with lamps.
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:03 PM   #25
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What a goat rope. Either use a contactor with a 120v coil or a buck/boost xfmr to make it 277v with a neutral if you have to switch both hots. At least that would be recognizeable by the electricians coming behind you.
I wasn't suggesting to actually try and find a two pole four way switch, if he actually needs it, was only speculating what such a hypothetical switch would involve. From a practical standpoint, way too much work. If he's got only two locations though, two DPDT switches at $25 a piece might be hard to beat vs control relay setup. I'm sure somebody with better familiarity with those catalog could probably beat it.

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Old 05-30-2017, 01:36 PM   #26
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Just use regular three way switches to disable one leg, and put in a double pole disconnecting switch right at each fixture. Easy cheesy and the next guy lives to see another day. I thought you guys were electricians.
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:40 PM   #27
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Just use regular three way switches to disable one leg, and put in a double pole disconnecting switch right at each fixture. Easy cheesy and the next guy lives to see another day. I thought you guys were electricians.
Mac .,, for coconut to coconut .,, ya have right idea but the OP mention high bay T8's so with Highbays sound like possiblity a twistlocker is there allready so that should serve as disconneting mean for each luminaire.,,
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:49 PM   #28
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Mac .,, for coconut to coconut .,, ya have right idea but the OP mention high bay T8's so with Highbays sound like possiblity a twistlocker is there allready so that should serve as disconneting mean for each luminaire.,,
I think he said t5's and anyway if a twist loc is there why are we even having this discussion for?
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:35 PM   #29
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FWIW Ideal, Wago & others make small plastic ballast disconnects.
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:45 PM   #30
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I don't believe 410.104 applies. The ballast is not auxiliary equipment unless IMO it is remote from the fixture. Not certain about that...
The wording in 210.6(d)(1) Seems to imply that auxiliary equipment refers to ballasts/starters/capacitors inside fixtures.

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(1) The auxiliary equipment of electric-discharge lamps
mounted in permanently installed luminaires where
the luminaires are mounted in accordance with one
of the following:
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:49 PM   #31
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In a world where 120 VAC solves EVERYTHING...

What is the OP 'on' about ?

It's a nonsense project.

You jump to 2P 240 for site lighting in a commercial setting ... with contactors and the whole nine-yards.

Even then, I'd jump to 277 VAC and a grounded neutral... [ I love grounded circuits.]

The reduced ampacity// watts needed to drive modern light fixtures makes the complications of a 2P scheme unjustifiable.

The OP is talking about 3-ways. This is strictly a conditioned space circuit. ( well, almost )

How many light fixtures are going to be on the load side of such a switch ?

That's right, practically NOTHING... a few amps. Sheesh.

The OP is jerking our chain.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:14 AM   #32
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FWIW Ideal, Wago & others make small plastic ballast disconnects.
So far I have only seen the ones with one black and one white wire. A 240 v version with 2 blacks would be cool. (I suppose one could paint the white conductor black, but now we might have to go pull out a code book again and looky at the fine prints.
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