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Old 02-27-2014, 07:41 PM   #21
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I had to do the same thing on an entire floor once. This was summer time in New Orleans. Some days I was chipping in 1-2 inches of water from the afternoon showers.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:43 PM   #22
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Hmm. I don't know what you are talking about I guess. Those are sch 40 90's do you mean something like schedule 80 90's?
Ok my bad then. From my eye it looked like ent.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:46 PM   #23
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Ok my bad then. From my eye it looked like ent.
No problem. Lol. Not much there to judge from.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:47 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by TGGT
I had to do the same thing on an entire floor once. This was summer time in New Orleans. Some days I was chipping in 1-2 inches of water from the afternoon showers.
Yuck. I hate working in mud and water. Lol
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:52 PM   #25
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We will blow in a jet line and then pull in a mule tape so we shouldn't be burning through them.
for shorter pulls, that works.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:57 PM   #26
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for shorter pulls, that works.
What would you consider a short pull? Also I've never used anything else. What do you use?
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:14 PM   #27
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It's winter here and half of them are covered in inches of ice. I get to chip em all out and get couplers on them. Lol. Wish me luck to get them all working!
. Start stubbing up out of slabs with rigid , and you'll rarely have they problem . They may get bent , but nothing a hickey can't fix .
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:17 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by cl219um
i usually use rigid 90s, if you have ever burned through a pvc 90 while pulling wires in, youd never go back,
That's a good way to never win a competitive bid job. I'll use rigid 90s all day on [email protected] jobs, but bid gets the cheapest of the cheap.
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:08 PM   #29
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what would you consider a short pull? Also i've never used anything else. What do you use?
100'
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:11 PM   #30
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That's a good way to never win a competitive bid job. I'll use rigid 90s all day on [email protected] jobs, but bid gets the cheapest of the cheap.
How cheap is it to chip conduits out all day. Spend a couple bucks and walk away. One and done contractors go belly up every day.
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:55 AM   #31
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Well you don't have to chip out pvc stubs anymore Carlon makes a tool for that . You buy the kit from 1/2" to 1 1/4" pvc you drill into the pvc with this special cutter they make .

Then from Carlon they have a pvc special coupling that goes inside the conduit you glue it and you done its a UL listed fix .

We never use factory 90 s on any slab we prefab our own at the shop and we never have lost a stub during dirt work because it gives when hit and the length of the stub if its hit during concrete pouring by a pump hose or stepped on by idiots it bows but the coupling will not come apart . factory 90 s are a waste of money and a problem you have two couplings close together your just looking for trouble .

Plus we always have a man or two to watch the pour with boots on in the mud .Think about the cost in labor or just get the tool it takes 5 minutes to fix it . Don't listen to me iam just a monkey pipe guy
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:29 AM   #32
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Well you don't have to chip out pvc stubs anymore Carlon makes a tool for that . You buy the kit from 1/2" to 1 1/4" pvc you drill into the pvc with this special cutter they make . Then from Carlon they have a pvc special coupling that goes inside the conduit you glue it and you done its a UL listed fix . We never use factory 90 s on any slab we prefab our own at the shop and we never have lost a stub during dirt work because it gives when hit and the length of the stub if its hit during concrete pouring by a pump hose or stepped on by idiots it bows but the coupling will not come apart . factory 90 s are a waste of money and a problem you have two couplings close together your just looking for trouble . Plus we always have a man or two to watch the pour with boots on in the mud .Think about the cost in labor or just get the tool it takes 5 minutes to fix it . Don't listen to me iam just a monkey pipe guy

Does it reduce the i.d of the pipe?
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:51 AM   #33
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Never done it, but I've heard of guys stopping stubs and putting threaded couplings on right at floor height, then plug the end of the coupling. As long as you've got good locations you find them after, and thread in your connectors or nipples to get above finished floor.
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Old 02-28-2014, 11:09 AM   #34
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I agree. Rigid is the way to go... but live and learn.

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i usually use rigid 90s, if you have ever burned through a pvc 90 while pulling wires in, youd never go back,
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:40 PM   #35
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http://www.tnb-canada.com/en/catalog...lon_03_eng.pdf Page 6
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:47 PM   #36
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Does it reduce the i.d of the pipe?

No it doesn't go to the Carlon web page read about the product
its been around for years .

Another trick we have done for many years is most jobs we do use a laser screed concrete slab you can not have any stubs you must be 1/4"of a inch below finish top,
So we use a pvc female to change over to EMT .

What we do is install a weed wacker string stubbed up 3 " above top of slab when the screed wipes over the weed wacker string stays in place easy find after pour .

If they used a ride on motor trowel the blades cut it off but it leaves chatter marks in a circle around the stub so you just pop it out with a hammer easy finding it after a pour . We also use this in tilt walls shear walls you never have to locate crap its there follow the string to box pipe or anything under concrete.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:53 PM   #37
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Don't listen to me
That's good advice.
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:07 PM   #38
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No it doesn't go to the Carlon web page read the about the product its been around for years .
Oh man. Those look awesome. I'll have to mention them to my jman.
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:26 PM   #39
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Never done it, but I've heard of guys stopping stubs and putting threaded couplings on right at floor height, then plug the end of the coupling. As long as you've got good locations you find them after, and thread in your connectors or nipples to get above finished floor.
I've done a lot of tip up wall new construction in this fashion. Every concrete panel has a page of prints for device boxes and conduits. Stub outs obviously aren't an option so you gotta get it flush. I've had way more success with PVC couplings over FAs
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:18 PM   #40
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I've done a lot of tip up wall new construction in this fashion. Every concrete panel has a page of prints for device boxes and conduits. Stub outs obviously aren't an option so you gotta get it flush. I've had way more success with PVC couplings over FAs
Well it doesn't matter what you use female or a coupling if you need to change over you must use a female . Weed wacker string works on anything box stubs coupling females even block outs below concrete .
we cant run pvc above any floor and you can mount a box to a female not a coupling I guess you use pvc any place lucky you but we cant on all our jobs its rigid or emt only . Its our building fire code no pvc out of slab I think you mean tilt walls .
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