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Old 01-28-2017, 04:59 PM   #41
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@99cents we advise our people to use no-ox on any aluminum components or any exterior wiring, the anti corrosion properties are many for the cost expelled. Short of filling exterior splice boxes with silicone we try to do a better job than just meet minimum code requirements.
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Old 01-28-2017, 05:38 PM   #42
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I just use an acid brush to paint it on. I'll paint the conductor, the threads of the lug and even the jaws/blades to a meter. I've had a few issues working in older equipment trying to loosen lugs but they were galled during installation. A little dab will do ya.
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:43 PM   #43
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A tiny smattering on the threads of flood lamps helps keep them from seizing in the socket too.
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:11 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99cents View Post
Inspector says to put antioxidant on aluminum even if the lugs are good for aluminum. He says to always put antioxidant on aluminum. Is this true?
I assume the inspector (AHJ) has improved on the Code with a local amendment.
Per Code, new alloy 8000 aluminum does not require No-Lox.
But the lugs might, so I always use it.

It works good on treads but this is a Code violation, since it changes the torque requirements. But I still use it to prevent galling.

The bottom line is do what the boss or AHJ says and save the fights for the big issues.
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Last edited by Semi-Ret Electrician; 01-28-2017 at 09:12 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:24 PM   #45
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A tiny smattering on the threads of flood lamps helps keep them from seizing in the socket too.
This is critical along the ocean!
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:45 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by LawnGuyLandSparky View Post
To that end, are you using any stainless steel or PVC meter pans and disconnects outdoors?
In the past I have . Cutler Hammer used to have a stainless meter/main can for a reasonable price- I think I was paying around $400 for it. But it was only a 100 amp setup. I do mostly 200 amp meter/mains. I did a marina job on the North Shore once using all stainless equipment - MDP, Stainless CT can, Stainless pull boxes, Stainless safety switches. I have bought houses for less money than all that stuff cost.................


By the way, that job came thru a company Hardworkingstiff gave my name to. (four or five yrs after he did).

Don't remember if I properly ever thanked him , but- Thanks Lou, you da bestest.
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:54 PM   #47
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I'm more worried about home depot employees misinforming home owners to install 20 amp fuses on 12 gauge aluminum circuits/wires intended for 15 amp fuses. This occurred to me a year ago after reading an aluminum wire gauge size chart. A misinformed home depot employee insisted with CERTAINTY that 12 gauge aluminum wires need 20 amp fuses. I snapped at him and told him that this is one of the main reasons why fires start with aluminum wires. Installing the wrong fuse and then home owners overloading the circuit. The HD employee sure drove me nuts.

http://www.propertyevaluation.net/Al...%20Wiring.html

I use purple connectors when I pigtail copper wires with aluminum wires for switches and receptacles. If there is a copper terminal, I pigtail a copper wire with the aluminum wire and then terminate the copper wire to the copper terminal. The point of the antioxidant compound is to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals.
Urban tale. The point is to prevent aluminum oxidation , which happens when aluminum is exposed to moisture and air. What you refer to is galvanic corrosion , and anitoxidant probably does help because it puts a thin layer between the two dissimilar metals. But not always will it help, and also, the newer aluminum alloyed conductors don't suffer to the same degree from galvanic corrosion as they did when pure aluminum was used in conductor manufacturing.
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:12 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by macmikeman View Post
Urban tale. The point is to prevent aluminum oxidation , which happens when aluminum is exposed to moisture and air. What you refer to is galvanic corrosion , and anitoxidant probably does help because it puts a thin layer between the two dissimilar metals. But not always will it help, and also, the newer aluminum alloyed conductors don't suffer to the same degree from galvanic corrosion as they did when pure aluminum was used in conductor manufacturing.
Perfect! This actually answers my question. Even if the lugs are rated for aluminum, doesn't matter, oxidation can still happen. Thanks, mac .
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