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Old 11-24-2018, 10:45 PM   #41
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We use insulated flex duct for fan venting. When it goes in to a cold below freezing attic uninsulated duct condenses on the inside and drips back out of the fan. Unhappy customer.
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Old 11-25-2018, 07:01 AM   #42
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I typically use this box. I use a grit holesaw to drill out a 3.5" hole in the drywall (or plaster in older houses). It goes right into the hole and doesn't need any notches cut out to fit the wings thru like the box 99cents posted. A smaller hole means less chance of cracking/chipping around the hole showing. The metal clip on the back is very strong and holds the box much better than those plastic wings.

Bathroom Exhaust Fans and Vanity Lights.-03d56c87-d2be-4552-8a95-0fc94cf6365e_1000.jpg
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:13 AM   #43
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I typically use this box. I use a grit holesaw to drill out a 3.5" hole in the drywall (or plaster in older houses). It goes right into the hole and doesn't need any notches cut out to fit the wings thru like the box 99cents posted. A smaller hole means less chance of cracking/chipping around the hole showing. The metal clip on the back is very strong and holds the box much better than those plastic wings.

Attachment 130318
I sometimes have trouble with the metal wings sliding through the wall, otherwise I prefer them.

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Old 11-25-2018, 08:17 AM   #44
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This thread makes sense now. All we have are these and they’re a PITA. I wouldn’t trust them to hold up a smoky.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:30 AM   #45
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I sometimes have trouble with the metal wings sliding through the wall, otherwise I prefer them.
Do you mean the box that I posted? When you say sliding thru the wall, do you mean after it is fully inserted?

What I learned to do is this:

Make sure that each end of the metal clip is bent out enough.
Push the screws all the way into the back of the box so that the heads are against the back.
Take 2 phillips screwdrivers (or a screwdriver and impact gun) and put them into the screwheads. Now use these to push the box into the wall.
Then tighten each screw only a little bit at a time.

Doing it this way has worked well for me to make sure that the metal clip is completely behind the wall and stays spread out away from the side of the box.

If you tighten one side too much, it pulls the clip in crooked making one side come too close to the box and slip into the crack between the box and the wall (meaning it's no longer grabbing the wall).
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Old 11-25-2018, 12:06 PM   #46
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So those boxes are only 3.5 inches?
I've removed them but have never installed one. I carry metal pancake boxes with a lip and a center screw that pulls in a big metal wing. I tried to post pictures but not sure it will work. I'm realizing a big part of this game is knowing what's available and how to best utilize it

A lot of times with customer supplied cheaper fixtures the base doesn't cover the 4 inch carlon. You end up with that blue ring peaking out on the edges.

I did that once and now I measure the base and use a rectangular pop in. Which I believe is legal for a wall mount fixture but not in the ceiling?

I'm not afraid to put in some sort of anchor in the drywall if I feel like my pop in box isn't going to hold the fixture.

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Old 11-25-2018, 12:10 PM   #47
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The blue Carlon with the metal clip on the back that I posted is a little bit smaller than the blue Carlon with the 3 wings that 99cents posted. Plus, you can break off those 2 wings on the front if they stick out past the small canopies that they sometimes use for little pendant lights.

The pancake box that you posted is good for when you need to put a sconce or vanity light on a bathroom wall and there is a pipe right behind the spot that you need to put it. Other than that, I would rather use a box with more room inside.
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Old 11-25-2018, 12:29 PM   #48
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Vent pipes are exactly why I carry them. I still prefer the regular pancakes screwed to a stud. I don't like the one I posted but sometimes it works better than anything else.

I'm definitely going to pick up some of the smaller Carlon boxes and a holsaw to match.

I almost didn't make the original post because it seems like such a mundane subject. But I definitely got some good ideas and tons of enjoyment. And it confirmed my opinion that those Canucks are crazy.

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Old 11-25-2018, 12:50 PM   #49
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Get a grit holesaw. It will cut thru both drywall and plaster.
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Old 11-25-2018, 01:46 PM   #50
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This thread makes sense now. All we have are these and they’re a PITA. I wouldn’t trust them to hold up a smoky.
I freaking HATE those boxes. I've been known to put in an ex box if the fixture isn't too heavy. Other times, I've even used a 4" hole saw, then put a little piece of steel stud in the hole and screw it through the drywall on one side, then screw a regular octagon into that. I don't understand why we don't have better old work round boxes.

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Old 11-25-2018, 02:01 PM   #51
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The boxes Hax posted are exactly the ones I use for vanity lights. Use a 3 1/2 grit hole saw to drill your hole. If you hit a stud, use a 3 1/4" pancake box instead. Almost all wall sconces will cover those boxes except for Desperation Hardware $hit If I run into the stink pipe, either some scrap wood and the pancake or the Arlington 4" old work pancake. Spoke to the Arlington rep at the last tradeshow about offering a 3 1/4 or 3 1/2 version of this.
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Old 11-25-2018, 02:09 PM   #52
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JoeSparky, I have those boxes on the truck. But the metal one that wmbettsjr posted looks like it would be better.
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Old 11-25-2018, 02:46 PM   #53
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I’m Canadian. I like to loop the wire in the wall and cut in later.
But I hate E-Z octagons! (The metal one @99cents posted. )
However if carefully installed they will hold some weight. I try to hit stud or backing and use a metal pancake.
A small amount of work on rough in can save a lot of potential headache on finishing.


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Old 11-25-2018, 07:04 PM   #54
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I wish carlon would make the 4" box with 3 wings as a 3 1/2" box. I like the 3 wings better than the metal back strap used on the 3 1/2" box.
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Old 12-02-2018, 08:55 AM   #55
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My main problem was trying to rough in the box and things changing such as the mirror size or even the whole vanity cabinet. I just bury the switch legs and keep a variety of boxes, plastic pop in, pancakes and pancakes with ears.

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I bury the wire as well. It will never line up with the measurement on the drawings. Just have to keep a remodel type pancake for when the plumber forgets there are lights in houses these days and run the vent on center.
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