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Old 03-16-2019, 07:44 AM   #21
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I still use traditional recessed lights when the ceiling is open. Cheap and adaptable. The drywaller does all the work of cutting them out. Then I just throw an LED trim into it.
This makes complete sense.
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:45 AM   #22
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You use 6” so it’s rare that you come across an obstruction that causes grief. 4” is a little trickier.

A couple of times I have run LVT to a hole and put the driver at an adjacent fixture location. That’s when the framers do backing after the fact and almost completely block my hole.
I use 4" sometimes too. And I have done the same thing, ran low voltage wiring to the opening because it was directly over the center of the joist and the driver wouldn't fit. That works fine.

But strapping like in Peter's situation is too thick and takes up too much of the hole to get the wireing and both clips into it. So cutting it out is the only option.

I hit solid plywood twice, I drilled 3 holes with a large spade bit and all was well in the world
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:54 AM   #23
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While I guess I like the look of traditional cans and LED trims better, the layout is so much easier with wafers, that I don't like them that much more. I don't know that by the time you get the pans solidly mounted so they don't move during drywall, that you save a lot in time, but the layout is easier. I'm not sure I'd go back to cans unless someone wanted them.
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:57 AM   #24
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[quote=Travvy;5177136]
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Why?
Strap a ceiling?

My ceiling was strapped at 12" centers... for 1x1 foot ceiling tile. I think only the basements were done. Tiles would interlock and a staple held the tile.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:01 AM   #25
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[quote=daveEM;5177194]
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Strap a ceiling?

My ceiling was strapped at 12" centers... for 1x1 foot ceiling tile. I think only the basements were done. Tiles would interlock and a staple held the tile.
I run into stuff like that from time to time, and it makes things interesting for install. Sometimes you open drywall and find that underneath or above traditional drop ceilings too.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:02 AM   #26
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I think the long, skinny Lithonia driver is best if you think you will encounter obstructions.

One thing I can say about Lithonia, Halo and Lotus is that the latches on their doors are solid. With the cheap, crappy ones like HD sells, the doors don’t stay shut. Halo and Lithonia are priced the same as the garbage fixtures anyway.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:03 AM   #27
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The long thin driver housing on the Lithonia 4 inch definitely can be a challenge.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:08 AM   #28
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I still don’t see the issue with that strapped ceiling. There’s lots of open space to drill holes. If you spend some time with a laser plumb and a chalk line or line laser, plot things out on the floor first.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:14 AM   #29
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That's how we've been doing it. Carpenter has a bosch laser we mount on a camera tripod for the counter receptacles and we use it for vertical marking too.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:17 AM   #30
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Quote:
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I think the long, skinny Lithonia driver is best if you think you will encounter obstructions.

One thing I can say about Lithonia, Halo and Lotus is that the latches on their doors are solid. With the cheap, crappy ones like HD sells, the doors don’t stay shut. Halo and Lithonia are priced the same as the garbage fixtures anyway.
I've been using the lite line pot lights, and their latches are garbage on half of their drivers. Nothing some black tape won't fix though.

We ordered some brand new lights from them. They're not slim line but they're a 3.5" recessed gimble trim pot light with a selector switch from 2700-5000k color temp. I'd love to see a slim pot from them with that switch. It makes sense if you like one color temp but sell and the owner wants a different colour temp without changing the fixture.

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Old 03-16-2019, 08:20 AM   #31
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I know a guy who hit dead-center of a joist and couldn't fit the driver in the hole. He took a big beater screwdriver and knocked about 3/4" off one side of the joist.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:30 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackWork View Post
I still use traditional recessed lights when the ceiling is open. Cheap and adaptable. The drywaller does all the work of cutting them out. Then I just throw an LED trim into it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolWill View Post
I know a guy who hit dead-center of a joist and couldn't fit the driver in the hole. He took a big beater screwdriver and knocked about 3/4" off one side of the joist.
If it was an engineered joist, he’s probably in jail right now.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:39 AM   #33
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I know a guy who hit dead-center of a joist and couldn't fit the driver in the hole. He took a big beater screwdriver and knocked about 3/4" off one side of the joist.
Using a piece of bell wire and 4 levernuts is a lot easier.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:42 AM   #34
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I’ve forgotten, does Lithonia have “extension cords” so to speak to extend the distance between driver and led?
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:44 AM   #35
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I’ve forgotten, does Lithonia have “extension cords” so to speak to extend the distance between driver and led?
Yes, but they are specific sizes and not cheap.

Just use bell wire and levernuts.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:48 AM   #36
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Yes, but they are specific sizes and not cheap.

Just use bell wire and levernuts.
Not manufacturer approved but who cares? I use butt splices.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:52 AM   #37
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I suspect those cords aren't usually off the shelf items either. I haven't needed one yet.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:52 AM   #38
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I used lithonia in my basement and they are a good light.

I personally like the Halo's that allow you to choose the colour of the light.

I had the nightmare of installing the below recessed lights this week(not slim but similar). These have the worst junction boxes ever, the locknut for our L16 would not fit in the box. We had to squeeze the lock nut in and then bang the cover to close it. I hope never to see these again.

http://www.dalslighting.com/en/produ...-baffle-square
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:58 AM   #39
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Still a lot of products out there that leave you scratching your head asking what were they thinking when they made this?
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:05 AM   #40
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I suspect those cords aren't usually off the shelf items either. I haven't needed one yet.
They can save a lot of time for attic work. I mount all the drivers by the hatch and then run the extensions to my holes. I poke holes through the loose fill from below with pieces of single conductor, tape the extenders to them from above and pull them down. Then I can do all my connections off a ladder at the hatch.
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Last edited by 99cents; 03-16-2019 at 09:07 AM.
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