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Old 02-21-2015, 05:16 PM   #41
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Just curious Lep, what's this drought thing you talk about???
out here in California most the new construction residential front yards are drought resistant don't need much water.They're trying to avoid having lawns anymore.
some people design their own yards others get landscape architects actually they look nice I think.
(not just a bunch of rocks in the yard),
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Old 02-21-2015, 05:50 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Lep
out here in California most the new construction residential front yards are drought resistant don't need much water.They're trying to avoid having lawns anymore. some people design their own yards others get landscape architects actually they look nice I think. (not just a bunch of rocks in the yard),
Sounds like my grandparents house in Arizona.
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Old 02-21-2015, 06:23 PM   #43
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out here in California most the new construction residential front yards are drought resistant don't need much water.They're trying to avoid having lawns anymore.
some people design their own yards others get landscape architects actually they look nice I think.
(not just a bunch of rocks in the yard),
I think Wisconsin's idea of a drought would be a bit different than a California drought. We almost never have to water our lawns. In a normal season, we're FORCED to mow our lawns about once a week. Otherwise we can end up with what is commonly known as a hayfield.
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Old 02-21-2015, 06:45 PM   #44
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What's wrong with forced air? All I see installed these days is geothermal or natural gas forced air.
Nothing. Your heating and cooling contractor will probably be the most familiar with this system. Geothermal has really died down in my area. They're building better air to air heat exchangers than they used to. You can run them down to 25 degrees or so.

I have over 150 cans scheduled for the house, I like lots of light and cans are super cheap.
Good idea. Just be sure to use LED lights or you'll have to increase the AC system capacity.

Never worked with icf foundations, but sounds like a good idea.
It is. It makes for a warm, dry basement and it's easy to finish.

Central vac is out of the question the wife loves her dyson and I don't get a say in that.
Don't care for it myself

320a vs 200a is about $600 for me is rather have the extra space. Garage is 30x58 and I plan on finishing the basement so total size for house will be 4200 sq ft ish.
Not a bad idea at all. Sub panel in garage?

Back up gen prep is a good idea.
Wiring for future pool and hot tub is already planned.

I have a ton of wireless stuff in the house now and hate how it's a cluster f&$8, is like as much as possible hard wired.
If you install any of it, it doesn't pay to install cheap Menards stuff.

I like the led tape strips under the trim, do you have any pics or can you explain how this is done?
Piece of cake. The last house we did, we installed the transformer in the pantry and switched it from the kitchen counter area. All you have to do is run the low voltage wire to the various locations you want lighting. If possible, I like to make the connections on the top of the cabinets. Might depend what brand of tape you're using. I use WAC because that's what my supplier sells. On the under-counter, stick the tape to the bottom of the cabinet behind front face frame so it isn't visible. On accent lighting, if you can, have them build the cabinets with a wide enough face frame so you can install it vertically behind the face frames.

Is in floor heating worth it, I need to figure out a heat source for the large garage; in floor, gas, or mini split w/ac.
Definitely in the garage and I'd at least put the tubing in the basement floor. You can always hook it up later. Mini splits are very efficient but I hate the looks of the line set running down the wall. You won't be able to use it in the extreme cold unless you get one with heater strips.

Roofing I'm debating 4tab vs metal roofing if I can afford it.

I put the house to bid with a couple builders and came up at 317-340 with their 10-18% fees.
Why don't you save some money and general the thing yourself?
Do floor trusses really burn faster than tjis?
I've never done a comparison test!
For attic to basement chases would 1-1/4 emt save me on the fire hazzard as opposed to ent or pvc? I'll use fire caulk and foam to seal around the penetrations and throw some duct seal in the pipe around the wiring. If you get it sealed off tight enough it'll probably be okay. Otherwise, if there's air movement, it'll probably rust over time. As long as it's covered with sheetrock, you're probably okay with PVC.
Just my opinions. I'd be curious to hear others as I'm thinking of building one of these years. It probably makes a lot of difference on your location. Up here, heating is the big thing.
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Old 02-21-2015, 06:47 PM   #45
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24" thick reinforced poured concrete walls with solid metal doors all around.

You know, for the zombie apocalypse.
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Old 02-21-2015, 06:51 PM   #46
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24" thick reinforced poured concrete walls with solid metal doors all around.

You know, for the zombie apocalypse.
Just don't forget the tinfoil core............
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Old 02-21-2015, 09:22 PM   #47
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Just my opinions. I'd be curious to hear others as I'm thinking of building one of these years. It probably makes a lot of difference on your location. Up here, heating is the big thing.
Indoor wood boiler Wendon, about 1/3 the cords of the outdoor ones.............

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Old 02-21-2015, 09:27 PM   #48
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Indoor wood boiler Wendon, about 1/3 the cords of the outdoor ones............. ~CS~
there is also the hybrid wood/gas furnace

http://www.napoleonheatingandcooling...brid-furnaces/
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Old 02-21-2015, 09:55 PM   #49
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For resale or financing reasons you might lower the switches and raise the receptacles and comply to other ADA specs. Lots of old timers out there.

If you go w/ LED's make sure they're listed & labeled.
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Old 02-21-2015, 10:01 PM   #50
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Just my opinions. I'd be curious to hear others as I'm thinking of building one of these years. It probably makes a lot of difference on your location. Up here, heating is the big thing.
I will general it myself I was planning on paying myself about half of the standard gc rate to make up for time I'll lose doing electrical work.

100a sub in the garage for sure.

I was thinking of running the pex in floor lines depending on costs just for possible future use.

What part of Wisconsin are you based out of? I'm near the capital.

I don't really shop menards, logistics and free deliveries from my supply houses make it worth it to shop them. I try to spend wisely but never cheaply.
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Old 02-21-2015, 10:04 PM   #51
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For resale or financing reasons you might lower the switches and raise the receptacles and comply to other ADA specs. Lots of old timers out there. If you go w/ LED's make sure they're listed & labeled.
I use tcp leds from city electric they give me a 5yr warranty.

Not planning on selling the house for at least 10 years maybe longer.

I'll use my 46/16"
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Old 02-21-2015, 10:51 PM   #52
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Pex is cheap you zip tie to your rebartook me by myself couple hours to do 1800sf I would think anyone this day and age wouldn't think of pouring any concrete without it, stub it up in a closet somewhere and you'll have it at least for resale but a warm garage floor is well worth the couple hundred in pex and half days work. I'm sure you have a plumber buddy that drinks beer.....,
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Old 02-21-2015, 11:12 PM   #53
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Pex is cheap you zip tie to your rebartook me by myself couple hours to do 1800sf I would think anyone this day and age wouldn't think of pouring any concrete without it, stub it up in a closet somewhere and you'll have it at least for resale but a warm garage floor is well worth the couple hundred in pex and half days work. I'm sure you have a plumber buddy that drinks beer.....,
Don't you have the put the 2" pink insulation board down, then pex, then pour floor?
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Old 02-21-2015, 11:35 PM   #54
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Got any pictures of your site ?
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Old 02-22-2015, 12:21 AM   #55
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...
Do floor trusses really burn faster than tjis? ...
They both fail to support the load that they are intended to support after about 5 to 10 minutes of exposure to fire. The floor is collapsing about the time the fire companies arrive on scene.
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Old 02-22-2015, 01:20 AM   #56
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I will general it myself I was planning on paying myself about half of the standard gc rate to make up for time I'll lose doing electrical work.

100a sub in the garage for sure.

I was thinking of running the pex in floor lines depending on costs just for possible future use.

What part of Wisconsin are you based out of? I'm near the capital.

I don't really shop menards, logistics and free deliveries from my supply houses make it worth it to shop them. I try to spend wisely but never cheaply.
Have you thought about running the service to the garage and running 200a to the house? Then you could have the transfer switch and generator at the garage instead of next to the house.

Forced hot water, especially radiant is more comfortable to me. I dont like tue noise from furnaces, the dry air they push around, dealing with diffusers in the floor dictating furniture locations, low efficiency, etc. Condensing gas boilers are much more efficient. True, you would still have to do duct work for AC, but you gain at least 15% efficiency with a modulating condensing gas boiler. It is a lot of personal preference, but boilers are where all the r&d and efficiency gains are going.

I'll see if i can find some pics of the led tape set behind trim. I saw it the first time in an assisted living facility where they did that in the hallways. They dropped the crown moulding down a couple inches from the ceiling. Loved it.

For security, 556 is right. Honeywell Vista is the balls. You can get a basic Vista 15 or 20 panel for 120 bucks or so. They are easy to program and wire. They have a ton of expandability now with home automation, cameras, and such.
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Old 02-22-2015, 03:54 AM   #57
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Don't you have the put the 2" pink insulation board down, then pex, then pour floor?
Yes, you have to insulate below your slab otherwise you'll be heating the countryside. You also have to pull the PEX up to the top couple inches of cement when you pour otherwise it'll sit at the bottom and take forever to heat the slab. You also won't have very control of the temperature if the PEX is sitting too low in the slab.
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:26 AM   #58
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Is in floor heating worth it, I need to figure out a heat source for the large garage; in floor, gas, or mini split w/ac.
By far, the best thing I ever did in my house was to heat the garage. (Modine gas unit heater)

I do, however; wish that I had at least had insulation put under the slab, but really should have added a radiant system to it. The floor remains cold.

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For monitoring, go with alarmgrid.com There are slightly cheaper alternatives, but I don't think you can get better, friendlier, more helpful support. Once you get the comm up, they will program the whole alarm for you free.
Looks good, I've had very similar experience with alarmrelay.com.
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:48 AM   #59
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I'm no builder but....






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Old 02-22-2015, 11:49 AM   #60
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Ahh, just went out to my heated garage and realized another thing I'm really glad I did. I used trusses for the roof so that there are no annoying columns, just wide open space.
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