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Old 03-14-2019, 09:26 AM   #1
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Default Conduit on split face block

In my career I have run miles of conduit on brick and block but never on split face block.
I have several fixtures to install on buildings that are split face block. The conduit runs are all vertical and I cannot think of a way to fasten the conduit other than using minerallac straps and 1/4" all thread studs. there are places that the finish protrudes 3/4" and then there are places that the finish is almost flush with the mortor joint and then there is everything in between.
I know that the minerallac straps will look like s%#t but this work is on the back of buildings and I dont think that the crack dealers and crack whores will care .
thanks
LC
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:38 AM   #2
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sounds like a plan to me.


split face is fun, nothing you can do about it.
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:59 AM   #3
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Speak to the customer. Take a 10' stick and show him how it will sit. If it's in the back of the building then they might not care if you just place the pipe on the block and 1-hole strap it in places where the block is sticking out far enough.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:05 AM   #4
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I'm with wildleg, there is nothing you can do that will look very pleasing so just go with it.

But I'd tell the customer first so it isn't a surprise.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:10 AM   #5
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Split face is the one surface that justifies two-hole straps, IMHO.

I'd bend the strap faces a tad to fit the contour. Visually, they then all look balanced.

I'd also skip the Minerallac straps. You just can't quite get them to line up... and they are slow.

Forget the 10-foot rule: go from high to high point. An extra strap or two is not going to break you. Messing with a low-point can bury your clock and drive you crazy.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:14 AM   #6
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Using a 1/4" stud for the hangers will work but I picture it being harder than it sounds. Number one, driving studs into anchors is a little harder than driving screws. You'll need the studs to come out almost plumb to each other or they'll interfere with the pipe. Turning the nut that's under the hanger may be a pain in low spots, the wrench will hit the wall.

Long tapcons (jyuck) with a spacer under the hanger might be easier. You can use everyone's favorite spacer, by a box of washers and use a stack of them. You can also cut spacers to length out of a scrap of 1/2" PVC, with the pliers style cutting tool this takes no time.

Sometimes if it's going to be a pain, I just strap a 1x3 to the wall and screw the straps and the box onto that. That's about a $3 board pressure treated. That's real easy, I think it would work fine. If they say it's ugly you could paint flowers on it.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:25 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telsa View Post
Forget the 10-foot rule: go from high to high point. An extra strap or two is not going to break you. Messing with a low-point can bury your clock and drive you crazy.
The 10' rule is a minimum, even I don't use that. I generally strap every 8' or less, depending on the circumstances.

In this instances I would scope out the run and find the high spots and try to strap it as evenly as possible, even if it was every 5-6'.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Sometimes if it's going to be a pain, I just strap a 1x3 to the wall and screw the straps and the box onto that. That's about a $3 board pressure treated. That's real easy, I think it would work fine. If they say it's ugly you could paint flowers on it.
You would use wood to hold metal conduit onto an outside block wall, instead of just using straps on the high spots?

And you people call me hack?
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:40 AM   #9
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You would use wood to hold metal conduit onto an outside block wall, instead of just using straps on the high spots?

And you people call me hack?
Hmmm. Let me see. What's more hack:

Strapping conduit to a beautiful wood baseboard to a masonry wall in an alley where nobody but crackheads will care one way or the other

or

Strapping a handy box with a splice to a wood framed wall sitting on a block foundation in some poor defenseless old lady's house
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:48 AM   #10
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Cut up some sissy bar, er, I mean unistrut. Anchor those to the wall. Use drop in anchors and threaded rod for support to the concrete. You can cut 1/2" emt to size for stand away spacers for the longer exposed rod places. Come away from the block entirely. It will also make a great ladder for the hobo's who want to sleep up on the roof and see all the stars at night.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:58 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splatz View Post
Hmmm. Let me see. What's more hack:

Strapping conduit to a beautiful wood baseboard to a masonry wall in an alley where nobody but crackheads will care one way or the other

or

Strapping a handy box with a splice to a wood framed wall sitting on a block foundation in some poor defenseless old lady's house
I don't understand. Why would you use wood at all?

Stop crapping threads with that other stuff, there are enough of them already. Let's keep this about Lone Crapshooter's pipe run.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:09 PM   #12
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I don't understand. Why would you use wood at all?
Wood is serving about the same purpose strut does in other applications, it just gives you something to attach to. You could call it a cleat or a nailer.

In about two minutes you can very quick / easy / painless / cheap screw an 8' PT 1x3 to the wall, turning an uneven surface into an even surface. This is easier than trying to use spacers to get hangers or strut plumb in front of the wall. The wood will naturally find the high spots and bridge over the low spots. Then in another minute you can strap the pipe and the box to the wood. Then you're done. The guy with the spacers will still be dicking around with a plumb line and a box of washers.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Wood is serving about the same purpose strut does in other applications, it just gives you something to attach to. You could call it a cleat or a nailer.

In about two minutes you can very quick / easy / painless / cheap screw an 8' PT 1x3 to the wall, turning an uneven surface into an even surface. This is easier than trying to use spacers to get hangers or strut plumb in front of the wall. The wood will naturally find the high spots and bridge over the low spots. Then in another minute you can strap the pipe and the box to the wood. Then you're done. The guy with the spacers will still be dicking around with a plumb line and a box of washers.
Wood seems out of place completely, and strut seem unnecessary in this situation (he didn't mention multiple conduits, it seems like he's running only 1).

There are always plenty of high spots to use 1-hole straps. Putting a large piece of wood on uneven block-face is going to look kinda terrible.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:22 PM   #14
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Wow a few of you guys are thinking really labor intensive methods here.

Does the 'K.I.S.S.' principle sound even remotely familiar?
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
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You would use wood to hold metal conduit onto an outside block wall, instead of just using straps on the high spots?

And you people call me hack?
Let's break this down just a tad;

who was it that picked your screen name?
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:26 PM   #16
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Wow a few of you guys are thinking really labor intensive methods here.

Does the 'K.I.S.S.' principle sound even remotely familiar?
You mean to say that you don't enjoy a trip to the lumber yard and breaking out the skilsaw?
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:28 PM   #17
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Wood would be out of place & it won't last as long as metal.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:39 PM   #18
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You mean to say that you don't enjoy a trip to the lumber yard and breaking out the skilsaw?
Its a shame there's not a store that sells both conduit and boards, hmmm, what if*

I doubt I would have to cut these but if I do it will take less than one minute with the hand saw that I always have on the truck.

Only @telsa 's idea with two hole straps could be quicker and cheaper than cleats. One hole straps at the high spots - I am skeptical. Depends on your luck with where the high spots are.

BTW, if there's a way to feed these from the inside, obviously, that's the way to go, I guess for whatever reason the inside wall is a no go.

*And box offsets.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:59 PM   #19
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Single conduit to each fixture, building is existing,masonry on the first floor siding on the upper floor and these fixtures are feed from a house panel.

LC
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:05 PM   #20
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One hole straps at the high spots - I am skeptical. Depends on your luck with where the high spots are.
You've got 10 foot of possibilities. You will find plenty of places within every 10 foot of pipe to strap it.
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