I know tungsten lamps don't require polarization, do CFL's?
I have a rewired garage sale 60's pole lamp I'm trying to change over to CFLs. I get one CFL bulb to barely light out of 5 then the breaker blows when I operate the rotary 3 way switch attempting to turn on more lamps.
Dimmable CFLs are designed to work with fixtures wired to a dimmer switch. A dimmable CFL cannot produce the same range of light levels as an incandescent bulb connected to a dimmer, however. Dimmable CFLs typically dim down to about 20% of total light output. Below that, the bulb switches off. If you want to use a CFL with a dimmer switch, make sure you choose a bulb with “dimmable” on the packaging.
Three-way CFLs are designed to work with three-way lamps. When you progress through the lamp’s three lighting levels, the bulb steadily increases its light output.
Additionally, CFLs may not work with electronic lighting controls, such as timers and motion sensors. Check an electronic control’s product specifications to determine whether it’s designed for use with CFLs.
Many CFL's have a base that is not designed for a "3-way" socket. Using them in such a socket results in a dead short circuit, tripping the breaker or blowing the fuse.
Do NOT use them in such lamp sockets, unless you are using one rated for such use.
I guess I'm not making myself clear. I'm not using a three way socket, I have a rotary switch on this type lamp.
with this type of top lamp containing 2 bulbs. The switch is supposed to light the bottom lamps,
then switch them off and turn on the top lamps,
then add the bottom two to the top two,
then off.
None of these are a three way lamp and none are dimmable.
I'm not sure when the guy replaced the rotary switch that he wired it correctly.
Are the bottom two CFL's in series or parallel? It looks like series to me.
It has to be wired wrong or something is shorting out to the metal (both lines though, so unlikely). It will probably blow the breaker even with no lamps installed.
Cause: One or more of the cfl's was/is screwed in too tight.
Possibilities:
1) Center tab of socket(s) bent down too far or off to one side shorting out the socket(s);
2) Center contact of one or more of the CFL's is down too far shorting out the socket(s).
To verify, unscrew ALL of the CFL's and inspect the sockets. Make sure all center tabs are clear of the shell metal connections. Try to turn the switch with no lamps in and see if the breaker holds. If it does then the wiring is ok, just don't screw the bulbs in so tight. (It helps to bend that center tab up a bit too.)
Forget measuring the switch...if it is wired wrong you won't get a short circuit but it would make the lamps operate in odd ways. I would make sure that it is wired only to the hot side of the line and then off to the proper set of sockets.
However, I would replace the switch anyways since the contacts aren't very robust and switching into a short has pitted them pretty good.
Just today I threw away a utility light...one with the aluminum reflector. The pin in the middle, (HOT), was twisted and had moved closer to the screw shell and would blow the breaker. Have you checked the sockets? I am editing.
Oops, I had not read the previous post by MXSLICK. What he said, as well.
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