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Old 04-29-2014, 11:26 PM   #1
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Default Door Jamb Switches

Any tips on installing these? I always find them a pain in the ass so I was hoping for some tips. It is new construction. I will be using this type of switch.



Also they have multiple double door closets and they want both doors to be able to turn on lights. Anyone see a code problem with wiring both to the light.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianSparky View Post
Any tips on installing these? I always find them a pain in the ass so I was hoping for some tips. It is new construction. I will be using this type of switch.



Also they have multiple double door closets and they want both doors to be able to turn on lights. Anyone see a code problem with wiring both to the light.
I use a motion sensor mounted on the ceiling towards the front of the closet. Works great and if they leave the door open, the light shuts off.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:34 PM   #3
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we have used both the door switch ( pain in the ass) and the motion. i really like the motion. however if the home owners gonna leave the doors open the lights will be on as soon as they walk near the closet. the ones we use stay on for about 3 mins after no movement
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:35 PM   #4
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Due to insanely high failure rates in the door jamb switches, we have gone to occupancy instead.

I see no code problem with your proposal.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:36 AM   #5
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Yeah. Really sharp????? Oh what the hell are those called???? Those carpenter blade chisel tools. They worked for me.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:46 AM   #6
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We use a low voltage, magnetic style called "better switch".
The controller is mounted in the fixture or j box then low voltage wire is ran to the door. Does not have to be in the hing jab. We mount them on top. Also you can order as many of the switch parts as you want to operate one controller.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:16 AM   #7
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Multi-tool with the small blade that is about 1/4" wide.

We install a lot of them, but I do my best to talk the customer in to an occupancy/motion sensor instead. Especially when there are two doors, the client doesn't want to pay for two jamb switches when the motion will do the same thing.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:40 AM   #8
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I don't know who, but someone makes a round door switch with a cylindrical box. Much easier and cleaner install.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:47 AM   #9
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LV to a RIB relay has been my shtick for a while....~CS~
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:19 AM   #10
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http://www.betterswitch.com/1.html

Here is the website for what we use.
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
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we have used both the door switch ( pain in the ass) and the motion. i really like the motion. however if the home owners gonna leave the doors open the lights will be on as soon as they walk near the closet. the ones we use stay on for about 3 mins after no movement
If they're coming on when they walk by the closet, you're not mounting them in the right place. If you mount them on the ceiling about 6" from the front wall, they have to stick their arm (or something) into the closet to turn the light on.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:37 PM   #12
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Multi-tool with the small blade that is about 1/4" wide.

We install a lot of them, but I do my best to talk the customer in to an occupancy/motion sensor instead. Especially when there are two doors, the client doesn't want to pay for two jamb switches when the motion will do the same thing.
Do you put the wiring box in during rough in stage or do it all after?
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:40 PM   #13
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Better switch with a magnetic contact
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:21 AM   #14
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se a P.I.R. motion combo switch.
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Opportunities multiply as they are seized.
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:54 AM   #15
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Carpenters hate those things. I usually notch the stud about half way thru part way down making sure I miss the hinges. I think hinges are about 10" or so down so check with the builder.

I just run my wire out and hang the box on the wire so the trim carpenters have it when they get there.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Alwon
Carpenters hate those things. I usually notch the stud about half way thru part way down making sure I miss the hinges. I think hinges are about 10" or so down so check with the builder. I just run my wire out and hang the box on the wire so the trim carpenters have it when they get there.
Me too, usually drill through rough opening with a 1" hole saw so they ,or I don't have to get to close to the wire when chiseling out.
Pop a box connector on and slide her back in place
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:14 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Do you put the wiring box in during rough in stage or do it all after?
We have the contractor pull the wire through the jamb then cut in the box at final. It's never fun, but they have gotten easier.

Years ago, before using the multi-tool, those things sucked a million times more. It was always borderline "is the jamb going to crack"?
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:52 AM   #18
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Occ sensors work well. I did have to disable one. Cats running into the closet in the middle of the night woke up the home owners.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:18 AM   #19
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Occ sensors work well. I did have to disable one. Cats running into the closet in the middle of the night woke up the home owners.
I have talked them into the leviton occ sensor closet lights. It beats installing 15 separate door switches.

Thanks for the advice on installing them though guys...it will hopefully make it easier the next time I have to do them.
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