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Old 04-15-2012, 04:20 PM   #1
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Default Entering the top of a 3R trough

I am doing a service upgrade on a two family and adding a house panel. I have a three gang horizontal meter socket with three 100a disconnects underneath. I want to put a 3R trough under the disconnects to give me a easy way to bring the ser into the disconnects. Can I bring a pvc male adapter into the top of the trough or do I need one of those myers hub things? I hate trying to sleeve ser through an LB.
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:23 PM   #2
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:29 PM   #3
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Thats what I thought. Anyone care to point to a code reference for my or anyone else's benefit?
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrp3
Thats what I thought. Anyone care to point to a code reference for my or anyone else's benefit?
Why not pvc then run ser?
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:36 PM   #5
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Because I am inherently lazy and hate trying to stuff a piece of #2 ser through a LB. The line to the house panel is a #1 ser, even more fun. SER into the back of the trough with a romex connector, stripped and up the nipple into the disconnect.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:02 PM   #6
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You can use a sealing locknut if you use rigid nipples. I find it easier when working w/ Se and SER to stub pvc from LB into basement w/ female adaptor and cable connector. Strip down sheathing and push conductors thru connector and LB. It works good for me .
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:10 PM   #7
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I say meyers hub not required, see 312.2.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:13 PM   #8
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Half the time I use sealing locknuts with a bead of silicone over them.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:15 PM   #9
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I try my best not to come in the top of outdoor equpiment, but when I must I either use the factory hub adaptor or a Meyers hub. In your case, I'm struggling with why you're not just using a 3-socket meter main assembly? They go up so slick.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:35 PM   #10
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I would love to use one of those, but this is one of those low budget deals. PSNH gives us the socket. I really wish someone made a weather proof ser connector and sill plate to match (round opening). Just looking for an easier way.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrp3 View Post
I would love to use one of those, but this is one of those low budget deals. PSNH gives us the socket. I really wish someone made a weather proof ser connector and sill plate to match (round opening). Just looking for an easier way.
There are weatherproof SER connectors. Same connectors you'd use on trailing cables for mining equipment. About every brand makes them. About 20 bucks. BUT... the kicker is that you're supposed to connect PIPE to a Meyers hub.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:41 PM   #12
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What would one of those be called? I will finish this off one way or another tomorrow. Maybe putting #1 and 2 ser in 1 1/2 lb won't be that bad.

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Old 04-15-2012, 06:44 PM   #13
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I use meter mains when we do multi-family units. Using seperate disconnects how would you ground that. Does each disconnect require a ground, or could you bond them together. I have never installed multiple disconnects, just meter mains. Sorry for the basic question.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:47 PM   #14
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I bring the water pipe ground and the ground rods into the socket, remove the single barrel lug and swap it for a double. The utility wants a ground in the can here.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:48 PM   #15
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I use meter mains when we do multi-family units. Using seperate disconnects how would you ground that. Does each disconnect require a ground, or could you bond them together. I have never installed multiple disconnects, just meter mains. Sorry for the basic question.
I drop the grounding electrode conductor out of each disco and use an H-tap or C-tap onto the actual grounding electrode conductor.
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