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Old 09-26-2016, 12:50 AM   #21
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Neutral is fine...
Voltage is a little high, consult your power company...
Washing machine...is the lid closed? Had to ask...
My guess is the voltage isn't the issue but the machine has an issue.
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Old 09-26-2016, 02:02 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWW View Post
Neutral is fine...
Voltage is a little high, consult your power company...
Washing machine...is the lid closed? Had to ask...
My guess is the voltage isn't the issue but the machine has an issue.
Thge lid switch is a common problem on many different machines, good call.
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Old 09-26-2016, 02:27 AM   #23
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BTW, appliance engineers don't hesitate to interrupt the neutral return with door latch micro switches.

This can really fake you out as you'll get solid voltages where a properly running machine would show ZERO voltage in the run state.

A whole slew of interrupt switches will be stacked in series along the neutral returns within the appliance if it suits the manufacturer.

So watch out for it.

You'll see this inside microwave ovens, dryers, ... anything that is intended to 'hold its state' while the door is opened in mid-process.
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Last edited by telsa; 09-26-2016 at 02:30 AM.
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:50 AM   #24
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The utility company vame and its from the transformer. I guess the washer is just shot. Thanks guys
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:31 AM   #25
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So everything was fine or?
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:29 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Low batteries will almost always result in high readings.
That's what I thought, I was told the voltage reading is basically a comparison between the battery voltage and the voltage at the terminals, so if the battery is low, the voltage at the terminals looks high.
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Old 09-26-2016, 01:37 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telsa View Post
BTW, appliance engineers don't hesitate to interrupt the neutral return with door latch micro switches.

This can really fake you out as you'll get solid voltages where a properly running machine would show ZERO voltage in the run state.

A whole slew of interrupt switches will be stacked in series along the neutral returns within the appliance if it suits the manufacturer.

So watch out for it.

You'll see this inside microwave ovens, dryers, ... anything that is intended to 'hold its state' while the door is opened in mid-process.
Automobiles break the negative side of a device many times. A dome light for example (in the old days LOL) would have 12 VDC at the light but the "ground" or negative side of the light would be open by the door switch.

I've seen on the A/C Condenser Unit (outdoor) they will break ONE of the two L lead's going to the fan and compressor. Using a two pole contactor, breaking one leg on each device. All legal... So please use the sight-switch to protect yourself.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:47 PM   #28
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Pseg came and confirmed its from the transformer. He said hes gonna talk to the engineer. Im just pissed i dont have the time to figure out what is wrong with the washer , guess il pay someone to fix it .
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:00 PM   #29
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I'll fix it for you, $450 plus parts!.....and airfare/lodging/food.....perdium
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MechanicalDVR View Post
If I get an odd voltage reading I use a second loZ meter to check.
It would have to be quite higher than 130 for me to even consider digging for another meter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sicilianiggy View Post
Pseg came and confirmed its from the transformer. He said hes gonna talk to the engineer. Im just pissed i dont have the time to figure out what is wrong with the washer , guess il pay someone to fix it .
Don't be silly. Washing machines are easy to fix. (I have never worked on a front loader though) Go to YouTube and type in repair washing machine and include make and model number.
Since I have been using YouTube to help me, I have fixed so many things around here. Mostly small engines.
My biggest win was when I fixed the ice maker in the kitchen fridge.
It was not working for over a year and ice trays were the result. I just decide to fix it and I did.
It turned out to be very simple and when that first batch of ice dropped into the bin, it was pure satisfaction!

Got points with the wife as well!
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:16 PM   #31
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It would have to be quite higher than 130 for me to even consider digging for another meter.
I have a regular Fluke 81 and a Fluke True RMS clamp meter in the same bag for troubleshooting. I find an accurate amp reading while watching the voltage as motors and controls cycle can be helpful in finding problems now and then.
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Old 09-29-2016, 12:03 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by MechanicalDVR View Post
I have a regular Fluke 81 and a Fluke True RMS clamp meter in the same bag for troubleshooting. I find an accurate amp reading while watching the voltage as motors and controls cycle can be helpful in finding problems now and then.
Sometimes you must look at voltage and current at the same time. So, I can see and agree. I carried a clamp and a meter with me all the time.
A good example is a DC control with external field weakening.
As you increase speed, you must know what the voltage is you are applying to the armature and the current draw so you do not exceed nameplate amps.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:57 PM   #33
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I,,,,,,, Got points with the wife as well!
wow, youtube was able to fix your wife as well ? I'm sold !
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:29 PM   #34
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Wife points are always good.

I couldn't fix the 1970 dryer so...


[IMG]image hosting websites[/IMG]


Bigtime wife points!






.
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:30 PM   #35
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Looks fixed to me!
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