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Old 02-26-2015, 06:51 PM   #21
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I vote new screws all together. There are something's a screw driver wont fix.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:53 PM   #22
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I'm just a little intimidated by fossil fuels ......






~CS~
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicken steve View Post
Yeah we kinda do, -20F is what i call 'stupid cold' , unfortunately i'm usually the stupid out in it

BUT, when i come home i stuff my wood boiler>



~CS~

So how does that maintain the correct water temperature if the fuel source is not controllable like a cycling oil burner? How hot does that pipe get with the MC attached to it.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicken steve View Post
Yeah we kinda do, -20F is what i call 'stupid cold' , unfortunately i'm usually the stupid out in it

BUT, when i come home i stuff my wood boiler>



~CS~
Time for some paint
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:00 PM   #25
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So how does that maintain the correct water temperature if the fuel source is not controllable like a cycling oil burner? How hot does that pipe get with the MC attached to it.
Good Q Meadow

the wood heats the water, but it's not consistent , wood rises and falls in temp, so two problems exist

A) what to do with excess hot h20

B)what to do when the fire croaks, and it's just warm h2o


for ~A~ i salvaged a number of simple hydrostats>



then hooked then all into a relay panel , which does nothing more than over ride the tstats (all 24V) , activating the zones to pump the excess when overheating occurs>>>




~CS~
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:02 PM   #26
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Time for some paint
Wood is dirty, Coal even worse .....~CS~
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:04 PM   #27
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Here's a better shot of the 'works'



a lot of what's there is from reno's....

~CS~
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:09 PM   #28
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Upstairs the good/bad lights are in the kitchen>



I can tell when it's time for another log>



~CS~
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:32 PM   #29
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Do I see a fire sprinkler? And a no smoking sign????


So what do those stats do when you have to much heat? Just signal?
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:00 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=meadow;1713241]
Quote:
Do I see a fire sprinkler? And a no smoking sign????
and a class C fire ex, and baking soda, and an old fashion 'stand pipe', and a heat detector mounted above the unit that's tied into the house smokes, and i have a night hitch by my bed.....(is that paranoid enough?)


Quote:
So what do those stats do when you have to much heat? Just signal?
call in the zones, override the Tstats, and pump it all out to a zone that essentially doesn't need it. So yes, you might end up with a room @ 80F....


~CS~
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:06 PM   #31
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All too much hot h20 and/or flue temp paranioa aside, i have to deal with ~B~ , (fire croaking, not enough hot h20) , which is where the gas furnace kicks in ....attenuated via hydrostat as well.

Now most resi hot h20's keep their innards @ 170F , which decreases incrementally outward to the furthest radiator. Typical heat take off, right?

But what if the fire dies, and the water is 120F? What i concluded was mass and volume made a dif, so i selected over sized radiators (buderus panel style)

~CS~
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:24 PM   #32
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Should install an aquastat that controls a draft inducing fan and solenoid that opens/closes the draft. Save on wood and you won't have to overheat a zone.
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:05 PM   #33
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[quote][quote=chicken steve;1713377]
Quote:
Originally Posted by meadow View Post
and a class C fire ex, and baking soda, and an old fashion 'stand pipe', and a heat detector mounted above the unit that's tied into the house smokes, and i have a night hitch by my bed.....(is that paranoid enough?)
Dry pipe or wet pipe... let me guess dry pipe system with a Siamese connection to the exterior





Quote:
call in the zones, override the Tstats, and pump it all out to a zone that essentially doesn't need it. So yes, you might end up with a room @ 80F....


~CS~
How many zones? Radiant floor or convectors?


Im itching to see a wiring diagram of the whole system
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Old 02-27-2015, 02:49 AM   #34
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This thread makes my nerd light blink like crazy, I love it.

Also....



BOOBS!
Im such a child...
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:18 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mista Bojangles View Post
Should install an aquastat that controls a draft inducing fan and solenoid that opens/closes the draft. Save on wood and you won't have to overheat a zone.

The wood boilers come with an auto-draft hyrdo activated draft Bojangles .

Which keeps the unit from having it's pressure relief open up, but the fire/hot h20 curves are still not linear.

In other words, i'll often end up with a bed of coals, and 40gals of hot h2o with no zone calling for it.

i found that inefficient .....

~CS~
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:25 AM   #36
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[QUOTE=meadow;1713713][quote][quote=chicken steve;1713377]

Quote:
Dry pipe or wet pipe... let me guess dry pipe system with a Siamese connection to the exterior
I wish, love our local FF's but i'm a bit out there from the station....



Quote:
How many zones? Radiant floor or convectors?
6 zones in about 2K sq ft , buderus radiators, (couldn't pitch for in flr) , biggest units available because the heat take off can be anywhere from 170F on down


Quote:
Im itching to see a wiring diagram of the whole system
It's really nothing more than an isolated 24V system & relays to over ride any given Tstat

~CS~
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:07 AM   #37
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A few years back, when I had a wood boiler system in my old house, I piped underground to the detached garage and installed a separate zone out there as well. I used the same kind of control ideas, if all the other end switches were open from the other zone valves and no part of the house was calling for heat, then it was set up to dump the excess hot water through the cast iron rads in the garage.

Never overheat the house that way and if I was working or puttering in the garage it was easy to open the O/H door and drop the temp in there if the it got overheated. If I wasn't in there I didn't care how hot it got.

I often thought, if we had stayed in that house, about a concrete driveway and putting the dump zone into that. Never shovel again
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:49 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicken steve View Post
Here's a better shot of the 'works'



a lot of what's there is from reno's....

~CS~
That's dedication
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Old 03-01-2015, 06:40 AM   #39
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If you have the space, water storage tanks should take care of the excess heat issues, extend boiler life and save wood.
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Old 03-01-2015, 06:53 AM   #40
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When it gets too hot I open a few windows or the screen door. When it gets to chilly I close a few windows, and the screen door. When it comes to carbon footprints, I am only wearing flip flops......
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