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Old 09-14-2016, 01:17 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by samgregger View Post
Are you afraid someone will accidentally take 3 hours to crawl up there and touch the fixture and get shocked?
No. I was afraid I would lay awake at night knowing I did not correct a problem that I had the opportunity to correct.

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Originally Posted by Going_Commando View Post
It took 3 hours to replace a 4' fixture over a sink? Oh muh god.
I'm not going to admit actually how long it took. But I will give you a hint.
I had to make two brackets to hang the light with and had to install a j-box.

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Now after all that you the other end is done that way too right??
Actually, I put in the switch for that light many years ago and there was a ground wire. So that end is right and so are all the cables in the panel. I did a service upgrade when I bought this house.
Most of the house is re-wired. Not all of it. Most of it.

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I think it was more of a transitional period where old school electricians didn't want to get with the times. I'm not sure it's a regional thing. I've come across it too in my area. Yes, this is a stab at dudes who freak out about AFCI'S.
The reason I said "southern" is I helped a friend and the house had been re-wired. All fairly new cables with every stinkin ground cut off.
Its as if they thought it was not required or even needed.

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I have never liked the idea of this. I hate the idea of 120 volts on those brittle ends. I have worked in way to many fixtures where the ends were burnt to ****. My company will never do this, I will replace the fixture first or use a tube and driver combo.
Glad to hear that about the tube and driver. I just hope this thing lasts a while. Its says on the package 35,000 hours.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:45 PM   #22
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Its difficult to say. Only time will tell how long these things last. I started converting recessed to LED. Started with only switched stuff first. Used some Utilitech stuff from lowes 2700k. Looks ok. One ended up on a dimmer and works fine because its on with an incandescent bulb over the stairs. Take out the incandescent and the dimming range shrinks. Nothing new there. I don't really feel like replacing a bunch of dimmers. Granted none are the newer LED type.

The ballast type tube conversion concerns are valid ones. They do come with decals that state the ballast has been removed. I can see where if you were doing a bunch, you might think about how you do it.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:10 PM   #23
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I have no problem with the LED tubes. I'll put 120 to the tombstones (as long as there not shorted). Heck the florescent ballast put out more than 120 volts.

Plus they come with a sticker that informs anyone it's not suitable for florescent lamps replacement.

The owners know this too. Anyone that changes them will see they're different from standard lamps.

Plus the customers like the fact that there's only one operation point to the light. If it doesn't turn on, the lamp is bad (mostly).
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Last edited by Service Call; 09-14-2016 at 09:11 PM. Reason: Added "mostly".
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:13 PM   #24
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I change the tombstones if they are bad anyway.
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:49 PM   #25
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Its difficult to say. Only time will tell how long these things last. I started converting recessed to LED. Started with only switched stuff first. Used some Utilitech stuff from lowes 2700k. Looks ok. One ended up on a dimmer and works fine because its on with an incandescent bulb over the stairs. Take out the incandescent and the dimming range shrinks. Nothing new there. I don't really feel like replacing a bunch of dimmers. Granted none are the newer LED type.

The ballast type tube conversion concerns are valid ones. They do come with decals that state the ballast has been removed. I can see where if you were doing a bunch, you might think about how you do it.
That's the brand I bought at Lowe's. Utilitech.
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