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Old 07-10-2019, 07:39 PM   #41
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That's actually a poor man's shop tool.

At the big shops, lights will be delivered to the shop-prep-'factory' -- where half of the work required to trim them out is performed. Namely that they are provided with a whip from the fixture to the j-box of the correct length -- calculated off of the AutoCAD print after the lighting backbone is in place. Then the whip is zip-tied into a loop and sent out to the field.

In the field the troops can drop in the 2x4 in no-time flat. The typical whip is a default 72" run. That way it meets NEC without further strapping. For ultra-fast paced jobs, this scheme is the ticket. The troops performing the work are cheap and their W/C is even cheaper as they are not deemed field troops.

The cost savings are so great that the EC doesn't mind consuming shop space.

With the above gadget he can crank out 6-foot whips like crazy -- even with brain-dead troops. ( i.e. common temp labor)

Dude, I mc cable 95 % of my flush in wall outlets in commercial nowadays. The premade whips for that is so expensive I only see them in State of Hawaii or Federal jobs. The other 5% is the box with the home run, it gets emt back to the panel............. Otherwise.......... minimum 20 recess troffers and yea, I buy the ones with a pre-made whip....
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:40 PM   #42
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Did you buy one Martine?
I ordered one online, it says it's an online exclusive, I'll have to wait a week or two for them to ship it to the store. A buddy of mine at work has one and I tried it, it works really well, and although I wouldn't carry it in my tool pouch every day, if you know you're going to be doing BX for a good part of the day, it gets a clean cut every time, where I otherwise end up snipping bits (and losing time) so that the edges aren't sharp after cracking and cutting it. So i'll see how much I actually end up using it.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:48 PM   #43
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That's actually a poor man's shop tool.
I actually didn't notice that it was the drill version, I chose that photo for @99cents to see what the end looks like, how the rotosplit cuts the ridge.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:52 PM   #44
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I ordered one online, it says it's an online exclusive, I'll have to wait a week or two for them to ship it to the store. A buddy of mine at work has one and I tried it, it works really well, and although I wouldn't carry it in my tool pouch every day, if you know you're going to be doing BX for a good part of the day, it gets a clean cut every time, where I otherwise end up snipping bits (and losing time) so that the edges aren't sharp after cracking and cutting it. So i'll see how much I actually end up using it.
Put it to you this way, Been doing it with Roto split for more than 30 years that way now. I can bend and snap and snip, Bla, Bla , Bla, but - Roto split is just too comfortable. Using a hacksaw on any metal spiral wound cable smaller than #10-3 is ....... Tard.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:20 PM   #45
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Put it to you this way, Been doing it with Roto split for more than 30 years that way now. I can bend and snap and snip, Bla, Bla , Bla, but - Roto split is just too comfortable. Using a hacksaw on any metal spiral wound cable smaller than #10-3 is ....... Tard.
yeah, I really like how it works! I was just having a hard time spending the money with the amount of stuff I already have, it was a WANT way more than a NEED, but for 13$, I'll GLADLY get one
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:35 PM   #46
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I wouldn't not have a rotosplit handy. I have done the hack method with dykes when I lost my rotosplit, and it is garbage compared to using a rotosplit. There really isn't a reason to not have one if you do any amount of MC or 3/8" flex.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:48 PM   #47
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I've cut a ton of mc and never thought you needed to add a motor to it, maybe if you have a very dull blade.
We had an office tower with about 10,000 troffers.
The warehouse guy built a rig which where you set up 5 spools of AC90, cut them into 6 ft pieces and eun them thru a guide with 5 of those rotosplit cutters on a mandrel. Had a small belt drive to turn the blades.
Took him awhile to design and build, but with 20,000 ends to cut off, it was way worth the effort.
Almost felt sorry for the apprentice in the shop whose job was to make them and tie them into 50 piece bundles
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:01 PM   #48
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We had an office tower with about 10,000 troffers.
The warehouse guy built a rig which where you set up 5 spools of AC90, cut them into 6 ft pieces and eun them thru a guide with 5 of those rotosplit cutters on a mandrel. Had a small belt drive to turn the blades.
Took him awhile to design and build, but with 20,000 ends to cut off, it was way worth the effort.
Almost felt sorry for the apprentice in the shop whose job was to make them and tie them into 50 piece bundles

Well damn bro that is an extreme need for working smarter!
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:41 PM   #49
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Well if you want a professional job......


Always went back and forth between a Roto-split and Klein 1104 bx cutter.
Every Canadian I know bends, breaks, twists and snips.
Yep, that's how we do it.
I like a hacksaw for bigger cables and coflex.
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Old 07-11-2019, 02:10 AM   #50
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There are literally billions of "crack and cut" connections across Canada working just fine. It's not hack, it's just like so many other things in this trade: there's a technique to it. It's not that hard to learn to do it right, it's fast, it works, it's safe.

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Old 07-11-2019, 08:26 AM   #51
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There are literally billions of "crack and cut" connections across Canada working just fine. It's not hack, it's just like so many other things in this trade: there's a technique to it. It's not that hard to learn to do it right, it's fast, it works, it's safe.

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Yeah, and there's billions of hand-driven screws too, but that doesn't mean there isn't a better method. Honestly, 99% of the MC I install is the break-N-snip method, because it's a little here, a little there. If I were roughing a couple thousand feet per day, I'd use the Roto Split.
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:29 AM   #52
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There are literally billions of "crack and cut" connections across Canada working just fine. It's not hack, it's just like so many other things in this trade: there's a technique to it. It's not that hard to learn to do it right, it's fast, it works, it's safe.
It's also silly.

Most of us were doing it that way well before the Roto split came out, so we know how it works and how to do it right. The same way as how people walked or rode a bike to work before cars. You can still walk or ride a bike to work now, but why would you when there is a much easier and smarter way to do it better?
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:40 AM   #53
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I bought a roto split when I first started, but I found it really awkward to use. Couple that with the fact that not a single other electrician around me carried one, I returned it. So I've been doing the crack and cut for 10 years. At the price of the one 99 posted earlier, I'll give it another shot.

I don't really think crack and cut vs roto split is comparable to screwdriver vs drill or walk vs drive, however. Both of the examples the latter option is vastly faster. I'll accept that roto split is probably a little faster, and is more consistent, but crack and cut its still pretty darn fast.

Where I can see it really being beneficial is where you need to strip a long section of cable, one where you'll need to do it in sections. When you crack and cut it, the subsequent sections have a hard time sliding over the bent area. With a hacksaw or roto split, the cable stays straighter so it should slide off easier.

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Old 07-11-2019, 09:46 AM   #54
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I bought a roto split when I first started, but I found it really awkward to use.
Have you tried the one with the lever? It came out a little while later. It might be less awkward for you.

It's really very easy, just pop the wire in and squeeze the lever. With the lever held down a turn or two of the crank is all you need to get thru aluminum MC.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:32 AM   #55
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With today’s aluminum MC and a new blade it probably cuts in half a turn. With the extra lever your using squeeze pressure to do two things. Hold the wire in the tool and pressing the wheel into the armor. Sometimes I thing it gets squeezed to hard when you squeeze to hold the wire in the tool. It causes extra pressure on the blade and makes the crank harder to spin and eventually it binds it up.

That’s why I like the one with the thumb screw and not the extra lever. The only squeeze pressure is to set the blade. It needs very little pressure. To much and it locks the blade up. Just set the thumb screw loose so it holds the wire between the corrugation and keeps it from moving forward. It’s not something that has to be adjusted with each cut. Just lay the wire in the tool. Looser is better. I don’t need all the other adjustments on the new ones, that allow for different sizes of MC, and help center the blade.
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:38 PM   #56
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These roto-split conversations always crack up me. There's always a contingent of people who are against them and talk about how great using dykes and other cutters are. I simply can't understand that mentality at all. The roto-split is vastly superior in every way. I'll use the "split and cut" method if I'm doing a few cables. But beyond that, I'm carrying a roto-split.

To sum up - using dykes or "split and cut" is an old 1970's vehicle with a carburetor, while using a rotosplit is a 2019 model with computerized fuel injection. They both work, but one is vastly superior.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:40 PM   #57
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Ok so I ordered one from the link 99 posted, $15-ish Canadian after tax, not bad. Out of the package, I was not too impressed. The set screw that sets the depth of cut was catching on the little switch that toggles between "standard MC" and "small MC" so there was a click when you released the pressure which I found annoying. Also the cable was being pushed too far into the tool, so the blade wasn't centred, giving inconsistent cut results. Sometimes the blade would bottom out before it could cut all the way through the armour, even with the set screw backed all the way off. So I made some modifications.

1st photo: I removed the set screw and used my bench sander to taper the last few threads so it wouldn't catch on the little switch anymore.

2nd & 3rd photo: I removed the little red plastic spacer thing that I guess is supposed to keep the cable centred under the blade. I tapped the hole left behind to 1/4-20, cut a machine screw to an appropriate length, threaded it in, then peened the end threads so it wouldn't fall out later.

Now the tool performs nicely and I think I'll be happy with it.

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Old 07-19-2019, 12:11 AM   #58
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Ok so I ordered one from the link 99 posted, $15-ish Canadian after tax, not bad. Out of the package, I was not too impressed. The set screw that sets the depth of cut was catching on the little switch that toggles between "standard MC" and "small MC" so there was a click when you released the pressure which I found annoying. Also the cable was being pushed too far into the tool, so the blade wasn't centred, giving inconsistent cut results. Sometimes the blade would bottom out before it could cut all the way through the armour, even with the set screw backed all the way off. So I made some modifications.

1st photo: I removed the set screw and used my bench sander to taper the last few threads so it wouldn't catch on the little switch anymore.

2nd & 3rd photo: I removed the little red plastic spacer thing that I guess is supposed to keep the cable centred under the blade. I tapped the hole left behind to 1/4-20, cut a machine screw to an appropriate length, threaded it in, then peened the end threads so it wouldn't fall out later.

Now the tool performs nicely and I think I'll be happy with it.

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Nobody listens. That’s the one I said not to get. Too many bells and whistles.

That’s the only one they carry at the counter these days. You need to order the original with the thumb screw, without the extra lever. At least it’s not the Klein or Southwire knock off. Those would be broken in a week.
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Old 07-19-2019, 01:53 AM   #59
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Nobody listens. That’s the one I said not to get. Too many bells and whistles.

That’s the only one they carry at the counter these days. You need to order the original with the thumb screw, without the extra lever. At least it’s not the Klein or Southwire knock off. Those would be broken in a week.
The first one I had was a Klein, you're right it was garbage. This one is the only one home depot Canada had on its website, and I only bought it because it was so cheap. Anyway now that I've modified it it works fine.

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Old 07-19-2019, 03:38 AM   #60
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Nobody listens. That’s the one I said not to get. Too many bells and whistles.

That’s the only one they carry at the counter these days. You need to order the original with the thumb screw, without the extra lever. At least it’s not the Klein or Southwire knock off. Those would be broken in a week.
Yeah, the one with the set screw is the only one. I didn't even know there was a newer version with a selector switch.

Once you get it set right, one or two turns is all it takes.
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