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Old 03-24-2019, 08:47 AM   #1
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Default No PVC above grade Spec

We have a job that is slab on grade.
I just left a meeting this week and discovered the project will not allow PVC above grade inside of the building.
OFW.
I usually stub up high and cut off the excess PVC. Now it appears that we have to either use a coated/painted rigid nipple out of the slab or have a female adaptor flush with the slab.
This isnt a tilt up job. I dont see the point in it.
Is there an easy was to work around shooting the top of every stub-up or buying a crap load of rigid nipples??

Any constructive comments would be much appreciated
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Old 03-24-2019, 08:58 AM   #2
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That sucks to be you.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:13 AM   #3
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What is the reason? Stupid job spec?

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Old 03-24-2019, 09:21 AM   #4
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What is the reason? Stupid job spec?

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It seems like a tilt up spec leftover from boiler plate notes.
I asked the superintendent about it. He commented that they do quite a bit of laundries and that PVC doesnt last in those facilities.

So, yes, sux to me me.
I keep seeing these in EC Magazine:
http://www.carlonsales.com/techinfo/...ystem_7F89.pdf

It looks like you cut off the stub, ream it out with a special tool and cement in an adaptor.
It seems a bit expensive for what it is. Like 1,600 bucks for a set.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:28 AM   #5
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How about using a Styrofoam block pushed down onto the pipe. Then after the pour you could dig away the Styrofoam and glue on a female adapter.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:31 AM   #6
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How about using a Styrofoam block pushed down onto the pipe. Then after the pour you could dig away the Styrofoam and glue on a female adapter.
Would be quite a bit cheaper than rigid nipples or that fancy azzed Carlon internal reamer tool.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:32 AM   #7
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Would be quite a bit cheaper than rigid nipples or that fancy azzed Carlon internal reamer tool.
I could pour gasoline over the stubs to find them.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:32 AM   #8
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Rigid 90's?

I like Hax's option best
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southeast Power View Post
I keep seeing these in EC Magazine:
http://www.carlonsales.com/techinfo/...ystem_7F89.pdf
It looks like you cut off the stub, ream it out with a special tool and cement in an adaptor. It seems a bit expensive for what it is. Like 1,600 bucks for a set.
Highway robbery, yet, worth it.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
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How about using a Styrofoam block pushed down onto the pipe. Then after the pour you could dig away the Styrofoam and glue on a female adapter.
You could use foam pipe insulation...
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
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You could use foam pipe insulation...
True, but the typical pipe insulation might be too soft. I assume they make something more rigid.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:54 AM   #12
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:55 AM   #13
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That sounds like a typical spec. It is very rare that we stub up out of a slab with PVC. We never have them coated though. Sometimes on an outdoor slab like under a generator, I will paint on some foundation tar right where it comes out of the slab, before it gets poured. Inside a building I don't see the point.

Do a search for Yard Ells. You can get them coated. I always wondered why they call them yard ells. It might be because it is from about three feet of conduit? You may have to go into production making your own?

http://www.calbond.com/elbows/yard-ells/

There are other companies that make them. Maybe see how much and how fast you can get them.
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Old 03-24-2019, 10:05 AM   #14
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Do your stubups have to be flush with the finished concrete? Or are they allowed to come up through the concrete a few inches and they'll work around them when pouring and finishing?
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Old 03-24-2019, 12:12 PM   #15
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What about using EMT instead of PVC altogether? In the slab not in the ground.
Like I'm certain you are going to do on the next floor up.

You know. Tie the EMT to the rebar and have EMT stubs ready for boxes after the pour.
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Old 03-24-2019, 12:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackWork View Post
How about using a Styrofoam block pushed down onto the pipe. Then after the pour you could dig away the Styrofoam and glue on a female adapter.
I like his idea with that and I may want to refine the idea little more with that.,

I would glue on the adaptor on and put Styrofoam on it and when the pour is done then you just unscrew that short piece then screw on the rigid conduit.

so that is one of few option you can deal with it.
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Old 03-24-2019, 01:26 PM   #17
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Stub up the pvc as usual then go around and spray paint it silverish gray to make it look like RMC.
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Old 03-24-2019, 01:37 PM   #18
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Around here that spec is as common as blue sky.

The usual drill is to wrap packing foam around the outside of the stub out.

This stuff comes in sheets and is cheap. It's secured with duct tape or some such.

You simply wrap enough around so that you can slip on a metallic coupling.

You may find that you have to futz around to find a sweet fit. (metal to PVC)

Plan B is to let the PVC rise about an inch out of the slab and then force a female threaded coupling onto the stub. PVC solvent will soften the stub something tremendous. Double check this as I haven't fiddled with such a connection in years.

SP Products makes transition adapters. See EC magazine's latest ad.

On some jobs the spec called for rigid nineties at the stub. And that was that.

You might be interested in Stub-Ease by Emergent. ( pg63 EC magazine, March 2019 )

It's so new I haven't played with it.
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Old 03-24-2019, 03:35 PM   #19
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BTW, when PVC burns it releases amazing amounts of toxic fumes. ( e.g. HCN )

California is so paranoid about earthquakes and their resulting fires -- lost an entire city a century ago -- that PVC is allowed above ground only in special situations. ( farms, etc. )

We can't even get the AHJ to accept ENT for power circuits -- unless it's embedded in concrete. (Then it's way popular for ECs.)

Our Pocos love to use super sized ENT for their stuff. It's always entombed in concrete, of course. This way they don't have to fart around with factory PVC elbows to snake complex raceways into being. Our Pocos won't accept field bent ( heated ) PVC raceways, BTW. They are very rigid on this spec. What a PITA.
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:39 PM   #20
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That's an idea. I didn't even think of using smurf and all of the wonderful adaptors they make.
Also, the wrap is a great suggestion.
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