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Old 01-30-2015, 09:57 AM   #1
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Default proper seal tite connector installation

On this specific example how would you install the connector?
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:18 AM   #2
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no need for the plastic seal if entry is threaded
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:21 AM   #3
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I would install it as shown on the left. The limit switch body is threaded and will accept the connector without the locknut. I don't see any advantage of putting the sealing locknut on the outside of the fitting.

Last edited by Sparky48; 01-30-2015 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 01-30-2015, 12:07 PM   #4
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1) Screw part A into the hub (or hole w/locknut)

2) Install flex (with wires) with part B attached



And, I haven't used metallic sealtite in decades.

Last edited by 220/221; 01-30-2015 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 01-30-2015, 12:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 220/221 View Post
1) Screw part A into the hub (or hole w/locknut)

2) Install flex (with wires) with part B attached



And, I haven't used metallic sealtite in decades.
This is industrial work, they don't know what carflex is.
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Old 01-30-2015, 12:47 PM   #6
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If you read the UL information, it will tell you that the LFMC connector is only to be used with locknuts, it has not been evaluated for use with threaded entries.

That being said, it is done every day for industrial applications. I often use sealing locknuts with 90 or 45° connectors to lock them in the position that I want them to be in, but don't use them with straight connectors.
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:07 PM   #7
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Don, Once again the forum will not allow me to quote you.

I am not familiar with the UL writings.
In most every instance, entering a switch body like this, there would be no available threads for a lock nut unless you were to use it under the switch body.
I have always thought this was a waste of time. But have seen it plenty times.
Putting the lock nut on the connector threads first, then screwing the connector threads into the switch body, then tightening the lock nut up against the outside of the switch body. Is this what you mean?
I can see no reason to do this as I install the connector first and tighten it well.
In this case, the lock nut does absolutely nothing except possibly lock the connector in place? Whats the reasoning?
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Valdes View Post
Don, Once again the forum will not allow me to quote you.

I am not familiar with the UL writings.
In most every instance, entering a switch body like this, there would be no available threads for a lock nut unless you were to use it under the switch body.
I have always thought this was a waste of time. But have seen it plenty times.
Putting the lock nut on the connector threads first, then screwing the connector threads into the switch body, then tightening the lock nut up against the outside of the switch body. Is this what you mean?
I can see no reason to do this as I install the connector first and tighten it well.
In this case, the lock nut does absolutely nothing except possibly lock the connector in place? Whats the reasoning?
I think he's right if you want to "aim" a 90 in a certain direction, it may not"bottom out" pointing the way you need it to. A locknut would allow you to lock it in at any point.
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don_resqcapt19 View Post
If you read the UL information, it will tell you that the LFMC connector is only to be used with locknuts, it has not been evaluated for use with threaded entries.

That being said, it is done every day for industrial applications. I often use sealing locknuts with 90 or 45° connectors to lock them in the position that I want them to be in, but don't use them with straight connectors.
why are the threads tapered if they aren't for threaded hubs?
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:54 PM   #10
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Some connectors are listed to be treaded and other only with locknut and seal
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Old 01-30-2015, 02:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butcher733 View Post
On this specific example how would you install the connector?
I don't know how we get off topic but the question was/is "on this specific example". Where did the conversation on 90 degree fitting come from? That sure appears to be a straight connector to me.
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Old 01-30-2015, 02:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butcher733 View Post
On this specific example how would you install the connector?
left side
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Old 01-30-2015, 02:22 PM   #13
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Are there enough threads engaged in the installation on the right?

I'd install like the one on the left...
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Old 01-30-2015, 02:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcclary's electrical View Post
I think he's right if you want to "aim" a 90 in a certain direction, it may not"bottom out" pointing the way you need it to. A locknut would allow you to lock it in at any point.
Yep, that's the point I needed to hear. Thanks Jerry.

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Old 01-30-2015, 02:55 PM   #15
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Default So it don't go in to far

I have put the locknut on the outside when the connector would thread too far into the switch and be in the road of the connectors
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Old 01-30-2015, 04:05 PM   #16
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Yep, that's the point I needed to hear. Thanks Jerry.

Hey who you like in the game? Cheaters? or Hawks?
I'm REALLY going the Hawks win, but I'd be scared to bet that way. ....lol
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Old 01-30-2015, 04:07 PM   #17
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Are there enough threads engaged in the installation on the right?

I'd install like the one on the left...
Enough threads? Nobody mentioned explosion proof.
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Old 01-30-2015, 04:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Enough threads? Nobody mentioned explosion proof.
Finally! That's a very important question!

More specifically, is this in a hazardous location? If so what class and division?

Borgi

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Old 01-30-2015, 05:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Finally! That's a very important question!

More specifically, is this in a hazardous location? If so what class and division?

Borgi
It is not a classified location AFAIK. Tire press, steam, nitrogen, compressed air and hydraulics. oily and messy as hell in the pit where these are going.
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
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More specifically, is this in a hazardous location? If so what class and division?

Borgi
Senior class & South Eastern Division!
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