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Old 05-21-2017, 02:59 AM   #1
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Default Recessing a receptacle in finished brick

Does anyone do this? If so, do you mind sharing your technique? I've installed many in tile walls with a diamond grinder. In my mind (scarry), I think the same technique should work, but the brick is a bit thicker than tile.

We have always mounted in on the surface with a bell box.

TIA
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Old 05-21-2017, 03:05 AM   #2
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Tapcon bit and some imagination

Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk
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Old 05-21-2017, 03:14 AM   #3
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This task is COMMON in Europe.

There are a TON of British YouTube videos showing technique and tools.

It's a rarity in North America.
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Old 05-21-2017, 03:20 AM   #4
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How thick the brick it is ?? a full sized brick or the thin brick style ??

that will make the differnce how you remove the brick and install the receptale in the brickwall.

I have done few of them in Philippines so it simaur to the European metholds of installing it.
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Old 05-21-2017, 05:43 AM   #5
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Here ya go
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Old 05-21-2017, 08:45 AM   #6
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If it's soft brick you can use an oscillating tool with a grit blade. Harder brick is going to need an angle grinder. Drill some holes with a masonry bit to define it's shape and make the corners.
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Old 05-21-2017, 08:55 AM   #7
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Like this?

Recessing a receptacle in finished brick-brick-1.jpg
Recessing a receptacle in finished brick-brick-2.jpg
Recessing a receptacle in finished brick-brick-3.jpg

For this one we used an angle grinder, SDS drill and a cold chisel. We had to do 2 like this. Took about 15 minutes per hole. We also had to cut in a receptacle box.

Recessing a receptacle in finished brick-brick-4.jpg
Recessing a receptacle in finished brick-brick-5.jpg

Not a good pic but you get the idea

Recessing a receptacle in finished brick-brick-6.jpg

Finish it off with some mortar in a tube and youre good to go
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:18 AM   #8
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I use the angle grinder, chipping hammer method myself with good results much like drspec posted.
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:34 AM   #9
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I take a Handy box and and outline the box with a pencil. Bring the box up against the upper brick so that the entire mortar joint is removed. Do the same on the left edge.
Use a 1/4" masonry bit at least 6" long the drill out the center of the pencil line all the way around keeping the holes as close as possible. Drill a few holes in the center and the brick will fall apart. Install the Handy box using Old Work Clips
Usually two in the bottom is all you need. This will permanently support the box and lock it in place. Fill in any gaps with mortar.
It looks original when I'm done.
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:37 AM   #10
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Hmmmmm, OWC's hold it that well?

I would typically screw it into the sheathing behind it, shoving something behind the box to keep it spaced out. Or a few tapcons thru the sides into the brick.
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DDesign View Post
I take a Handy box and and outline the box with a pencil. Bring the box up against the upper brick so that the entire mortar joint is removed. Do the same on the left edge.
Use a 1/4" masonry bit at least 6" long the drill out the center of the pencil line all the way around keeping the holes as close as possible. Drill a few holes in the center and the brick will fall apart. Install the Handy box using Old Work Clips
Usually two in the bottom is all you need. This will permanently support the box and lock it in place. Fill in any gaps with mortar.
It looks original when I'm done.
Why a handy box rather than another type?
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by readydave8 View Post
Why a handy box rather than another type?
I use a Handy box or Masonry box.
The threaded holes for the screws are inside the box area. Some other boxes have the threaded holes outside the box area and screws can hit the brick or get covered with mortar
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackWork View Post
Hmmmmm, OWC's hold it that well?

I would typically screw it into the sheathing behind it, shoving something behind the box to keep it spaced out. Or a few tapcons thru the sides into the brick.
Yes, OWC's push the box against the brick on the other edge and lock it in place. If there's room, I'll use four, two top and two bottom, but usually just two on one side.
I've never had it fail.
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Old 05-21-2017, 10:32 AM   #14
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If you look at the pic above you will see that the box fits between the mortar joints vertically. You can use a chisel or a hammer drill- hammer drill is easier to screw things up but I have done it.

Best is to drill a series of holes on the break where you want to cut and then chisel it oput where the mortar joint is. Basically remove about half a brick
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Old 05-21-2017, 10:56 AM   #15
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Diamond blade on a grinder for a BC1110 box or a 4" core drill for a BC54151-K box. Never secured the box with anything except I might use a shim to center the box if required. Mortar in place and you are golden.

Use the same approach with block too. Try to place the boxes near mortar joints or in the webs of blocks is possible.

Cheers
John

Cheers

John
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