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Old 01-20-2017, 04:58 PM   #21
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the angled cut works very well, but eventually will crack without tape. the 'hot patch' that i believe was discussed here in a plaster thread, is the answer to anywhere that is going to be seen often. not all that easy but doable with patience. the drywall repair guys i know say that a bigger hole is easier to patch and make look good than a small hole! i guess it depends on how much room youve got work, how much will be seen, how paint will not match, etc.!
What is a hot patch. I like the mesh tape for the butt joints,but they have to be feathered pretty wide. Hot?
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:03 PM   #22
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What is a hot patch. I like the mesh tape for the butt joints,but they have to be feathered pretty wide. Hot?
Hot mud is the powder that you mix into mud. In general, it is stronger, doesn't shrink, and won't crack as much as normal spackle that you buy pre-made in the bucket. It's a bit closer to plaster than spackle, but it's sandable (which is why the Sheetrock brand calls it "Easy Sand")

It is also nice because you can buy it in faster drying formulas, generally 90, 20, or 5 minute.

It's great for a first coat to really fill in all the voids, but it's a lot harder to get to look good for a finish coat, which is why tapers will usually use hot mud for the first coat and normal spackle for the 2nd and 3rd.
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:19 PM   #23
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Hot mud is the powder that you mix into mud. In general, it is stronger, doesn't shrink, and won't crack as much as normal spackle that you buy pre-made in the bucket. It's a bit closer to plaster than spackle, but it's sandable (which is why the Sheetrock brand calls it "Easy Sand")

It is also nice because you can buy it in faster drying formulas, generally 90, 20, or 5 minute.

It's great for a first coat to really fill in all the voids, but it's a lot harder to get to look good for a finish coat, which is why tapers will usually use hot mud for the first coat and normal spackle for the 2nd and 3rd.
I can do repair, and my own, but don't know the pro lingo, and will never have the patience to watch mud dry. Right up there with grass grow. I like to do my days work and sit around on the weekend. But when I am in the zone,look out.i wish I knew how to make mud dry faster. Clue me in. What is the adder to bump the dry time faster.
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:21 PM   #24
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I can do repair, and my own, but don't know the pro lingo, and will never have the patience to watch mud dry. Right up there with grass grow. I like to do my days work and sit around on the weekend. But when I am in the zone,look out.i wish I knew how to make mud dry faster. Clue me in. What is the adder to bump the dry time faster.
Just go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a bag of the 20 minute powder. Mix it up and apply.
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:38 PM   #25
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Just go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a bag of the 20 minute powder. Mix it up and apply.
For my own remodels, always just bought a 5 gal. Bucket of lightweight cause it goes on like butter. Sand the **** out of it till it looks good, walk around the room with 3 gal. Of moon dust, then fist myself out of agrivation cause now I can see the mesh tape sanding through. Throw another skim coat of lightweight on, sand again. Now hope the new paint will cover the thrashing I put on to the wall. Third coat of paint... Nope. Maybe I am just a perfectionist, but if you look from the side with the light on. Crap. I should be doing punch lists for engineering companies for a living...
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:52 PM   #26
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Taping, painting, tile, and many other trades are things that I don't care to do and that I believe other people can do much better, people who do it everyday for 8 hours.

My father's company has at least 10 union tapers working full time every day, they know exactly what they are doing. If I need work done I'll get one of them.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:02 PM   #27
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Taping, painting, tile, and many other trades are things that I don't care to do and that I believe other people can do much better, people who do it everyday for 8 hours.

My father's company has at least 10 union tapers working full time every day, they know exactly what they are doing. If I need work done I'll get one of them.
I have been watching the technique for years, but to put it in place is another story. The same people that I seen doing it I have the utmost respect for. Just like a bricky stacking one on top of one, or one on top of two. They have been doing it forever and know the trade. Perfected it, and made it theirs. Even though bricklayers have a love, hate relationship, I can respect what they do and have hired drywall finishers for some of my bigger projects as well.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:18 PM   #28
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Tip:

If you use buckets.

The green lid spackle buckets shrink. They are for first coats and larger gaps.
It's made to shrink and lock in place
Blue buckets are for 2nd and final coats, it doesn't shrink and crack.

Mix well until it's creamy like pancake batter.

Put on in thin coats.

Don't sand, use a damp sponge instead. You won't have the dust.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:53 PM   #29
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Tip:

If you use buckets.

The green lid spackle buckets shrink. They are for first coats and larger gaps.
It's made to shrink and lock in place
Blue buckets are for 2nd and final coats, it doesn't shrink and crack.

Mix well until it's creamy like pancake batter.

Put on in thin coats.

Don't sand, use a damp sponge instead. You won't have the dust.
May sound weird, but adding in some liquid dish soap and mixing "makes it glide on even smoother.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:56 PM   #30
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My father's company has at least 10 union tapers working full time every day, they know exactly what they are doing. If I need work done I'll get one of them.
You have a father? I thought you were an immaculate conception.
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Old 01-20-2017, 07:26 PM   #31
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May sound weird, but adding in some liquid dish soap and mixing "makes it glide on even smoother.
Yeah, but it leaves bubbles, pits in the spackle that you will notice when painted if you sand. The damp sponge will blend those out if you do it that way.
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:10 PM   #32
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Yeah, but it leaves bubbles, pits in the spackle that you will notice when painted if you sand. The damp sponge will blend those out if you do it that way.
When I tried it, it seemed to keep the bubbles out of the knife edge. Totally opposite of what you would think when adding dish soap. Try it...
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:18 PM   #33
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I tried that trick many moons ago, from advice from a carpenter.

Then a sheetrocker showed me the sponge trick.

Never going back..
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:21 PM   #34
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Don't forget about the purple lid. Green plus blue equals purple. Then there's the light green lid which I started using like 3.5 years ago, which is purple on steroids.
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:51 PM   #35
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I tried that trick many moons ago, from advice from a carpenter.

Then a sheetrocker showed me the sponge trick.

Never going back..
Sanding sponge works ok, but you can see a definite edge, kind of a cloud when the paint is on
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