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Old 01-29-2015, 07:08 AM   #21
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Locknuts on couplings?????
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:19 AM   #22
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Locknuts. And the issue being crimped on male box connectors to the panel, and crimped couplings down the whole pipe until it's destination.

If there were any junctions in the attic, it wouldn't be hard to modify the conduit run, but they ran far with no junctions.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:15 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by five.five-six View Post
Tubing cutter is a code violation IIRC

First trick: if there's no wire inside, heat it with a torch

2nd trick, cut it with a dremmel.

This kind of tubing cutter would be acceptable I believe.

http://www.toolup.com/greenlee_8600_...FW4V7AodpkcAyg
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:17 AM   #24
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Those , look like my next new toys
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:34 AM   #25
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I am always amazed that locknuts come off so easily after many decades.

Only one out of thousands give me trouble.

Maneuvering is tricky but, I would try the sawsall method.
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:34 AM   #26
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These were flush mounted in plaster board wall stud bays. The locknuts are a tacky kind of steel that tends to cling like the way some cast couplings are tacky against pipe.
I seldom, if ever use any pot-metal EMT connectors or pot-metal locknuts. Pot-metal Romex connectors usually come with the same type locknut. I use a steel one instead.
I use the drill method, someone else suggested. They snap right off, using channelocks.
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Old 01-29-2015, 03:45 PM   #27
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I use one of these to ream a pipe I've cut with a tubing cutter, works great:

http://toolsandparts.com/store/reed-...with-3-blades/
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:02 PM   #28
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A couple of times I have a piece of EMT that I had no choice but to cut with a tubing cutter. I found an old dull uni-bit takes the inside ridge down pretty quickly then a quick rub with a rat tail file and your good to go.

For old stuck locknuts I use the drill bit method. I just drill into the locknut on the edge of it and split the old crap off of the connector.
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:46 PM   #29
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Those , look like my next new toys
They work very well but they aren't cheap.
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Old 01-29-2015, 08:59 PM   #30
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How about PB Blaster on the locknuts?
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:21 PM   #31
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Hammer and a cold chisel... Drill and a carbide burr to cut through the side of it.. Die grinder... 24" pipe wrenches...

How big of a locknut are we talkin about?
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:42 PM   #32
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In panels use a small SDS electric hammer like a 1" Bosch with a precussion only setting and a worn out chisel. Or for that matter grind a chisel fat or blunt . I have seen a contractor use a similar setup to tighten 4"locknuts.

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Old 01-29-2015, 09:47 PM   #33
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In panels use a small SDS electric hammer like a 1" Bosch with a precussion only setting and a worn out chisel. Or for that matter grind a chisel fat or blunt . I have seen a contractor use a similar setup to tighten 4"locknuts.

LC
I'd be worried about the thing jumping around and contacting the hot lugs or something. Being a quick changeover, we had to prep everything as far as possible with panel and branch circuits hot.

All conduits besides the feeder were 1/2" and 3/4, but in a small 100 amp panel and tight together, which really only allowed a screwdriver or slim tool in there.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:56 PM   #34
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I've ran thousands of feet of emt using a tubing cutter. You have to score the outside and "snap" the pipe in the bender, after a little bit of practice it shouldn't leave a burr. In the instances that you have to remove a burr, this tool works great.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...deburring+tool

Don't get one with a plastic handle, they're crap.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:03 PM   #35
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How about PB Blaster on the locknuts?

The OP said it was in a nursing home, want to hear some sniveling? Use PB Blaster indoors then watch the staff start complaining as the stench flows throughout the building. PB Blaster stinks when used in the open air, use it a closed space & it really will stink.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:18 PM   #36
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soak overnight with PB Blaster
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:29 PM   #37
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Go down to the drug store and get some Oil of Wintergreen. It's a great non-toxic rust cutter and lubricant, plus it smells great. People will just think you are chewing a lot of gum.

Despite popular belief, WD40 is not that great of a rust cutter or lube. It's purpose is in the name; WD stands for Water Displacer. Personally I hate the smell, as do a lot of people. In high school I worked in a junk yard tearing apart antique cars, all we ever used was Oil of Wintergreen. I have never found anything better, including Liquid Wrench.
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:31 AM   #38
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Crappiest tool ever
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:56 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeagnt54 View Post
I've ran thousands of feet of emt using a tubing cutter. You have to score the outside and "snap" the pipe in the bender, after a little bit of practice it shouldn't leave a burr. In the instances that you have to remove a burr, this tool works great.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...deburring+tool

Don't get one with a plastic handle, they're crap.
Not sure but, I think everyone here will agree that if someone showed up on my job with a tubing cutter expecting to run EMT, I would either get his money or hand him a shovel.
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Old 01-30-2015, 07:19 AM   #40
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Quote:
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The OP said it was in a nursing home, want to hear some sniveling? Use PB Blaster indoors then watch the staff start complaining as the stench flows throughout the building. PB Blaster stinks when used in the open air, use it a closed space & it really will stink.
Hard to make the nursing homes I worked in smell worse
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