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Old 02-07-2019, 10:17 AM   #1
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Default Terminal Torque

What do you guys use to torque motor starter, or contactor line and load lugs. Really aything that requires pretty high torque 30-45lbs or more and has a phillip's or a flat head screw? Most of the torque screwdriver I've seen are rated for 60 inch pounds at the most
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Old 02-07-2019, 11:31 AM   #2
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I never used a torque screwdriver before. Where are you getting the specs from?
Maybe contact the manufacturer and hear what they have to say.
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Old 02-07-2019, 12:34 PM   #3
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What do you guys use to torque motor starter, or contactor line and load lugs. Really aything that requires pretty high torque 30-45lbs or more and has a phillip's or a flat head screw? Most of the torque screwdriver I've seen are rated for 60 inch pounds at the most
No Philips or flathead screw is going to "require" anything close to 30-45 foot pounds. Where are you getting these numbers from?

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Old 02-07-2019, 01:23 PM   #4
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No Philips or flathead screw is going to "require" anything close to 30-45 foot pounds. Where are you getting these numbers from?

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I have seen it before and after they stripped out the screw they realized it was INCH POUNDS.

Check your specifications.
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Old 02-07-2019, 03:09 PM   #5
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I use either a flat head, Phillips, Allen head or hex driver screw driver ( which ever one fits) and my hand.
Tighten so itís tight but not to tight.


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Old 02-07-2019, 03:24 PM   #6
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I use either a flat head, Phillips, Allen head or hex driver screw driver ( which ever one fits) and my hand.
Tighten so itís tight but not to tight.


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While I tend to agree for branch circuit wiring many of our customers are specifying torque screwdrivers. And then there is that pesky NEC.
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:01 PM   #7
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While I tend to agree for branch circuit wiring many of our customers are specifying torque screwdrivers. And then there is that pesky NEC.
Just tell them they're torqued to German specs....they're all

Goodntite

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Old 02-07-2019, 10:46 PM   #8
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Im seeing a lot more labels and sticky warning tabs that have to be removed to install the wires saying max torque rather than required torque.
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:30 AM   #9
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Im seeing a lot more labels and sticky warning tabs that have to be removed to install the wires saying max torque rather than required torque.
That was bound to happen once impact drivers became popular as screwdrivers.
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Old 02-08-2019, 07:12 AM   #10
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I have seen it before and after they stripped out the screw they realized it was INCH POUNDS.

Check your specifications.

Man! I'm getting too old for all of this... these new torque requirements remind me of the AFCI nonsense... just a big pain in the butt! How many thousands of lugs have all of us torqued down perfectly down through the years?
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Old 02-08-2019, 07:45 AM   #11
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That was bound to happen once impact drivers became popular as screwdrivers.

That shows you how old school and out-of-touch I am... I have never owned an impact driver. Hammer drill yes... impact, no. I still actually tighten screws and lugs down by hand.... how crazy in that?!
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:08 AM   #12
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Foot-pounds, inch-pounds, and Newton-meters are the typical torque ratings I’m familiar with.

If it is a UL-508 rated panel then the terminal torque ratings are required to be on a chart inside the panel or on the drawings.
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:23 AM   #13
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I remember how I hated it when they changed the code and I started having to ground ceiling light fixtures. I remember how I hated it when they changed the code and I started having to ground switches. I remember how I hated it when they changed the code and then I had to make sure my boxes were all pretty much flush with the drywall. I remember when they changed the code and I had to start using handle tie's on multiwire branch circuits. I remember when they changed the code and multiwire branch circuits became pretty much stupid to even consider running in any single phase panel period thanks to these stupid new circuit breakers some jackass invented that didn't work like they said they were supposed to. I remember when they changed the code and I had to quit running all the home runs into the panel thru a single 2" pvc terminal adaptor even if I put one of those fancy plastic bushings on the inside of the panel after the locknut. I remember when they changed the code and.............................


I don't even think twice now about any of the above...
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:49 PM   #14
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Sorry I misread anywhere between 20-40 inch pounds. Anyway what do you all use to reach the proper torque?
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Old 02-08-2019, 01:00 PM   #15
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My torque screwdriver is ALL metal. Even though I would never use it in an energized panel I still hate the fact that I am holding a metal device.
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maintenance2 View Post
Sorry I misread anywhere between 20-40 inch pounds. Anyway what do you all use to reach the proper torque?
Anything on this page


https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...e+screwdrivers

They should make these in different sizes

https://www.amazon.com/TorQ-Armour-M...e+screwdrivers
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:38 PM   #17
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That was bound to happen once impact drivers became popular as screwdrivers.
Especially with guys that only use impacts!
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:44 PM   #18
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Man! I'm getting too old for all of this... these new torque requirements remind me of the AFCI nonsense... just a big pain in the butt! How many thousands of lugs have all of us torqued down perfectly down through the years?
See that's a subjective statement.

How many lugs have you seen that had heat marks from being too loose?

How many so tight that some conductors were dug into or cut off?

Not all of us clearly have the feel for it.
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:51 PM   #19
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I bought a torque screwdriver for each van. I would guarantee only one has ever been used. One more completely useless code that cost me money that I will never get back.
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:56 PM   #20
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Many, many years ago as a 1st year apprentice I helped my JW use some Kearneys to splice some 500MCM together. A couple of days later another JW asked me if we had hit them with a hammer & then tightened them some more before taping (we had not). The 2nd JW shook his head and said there’s going to be trouble with those splices later.

From that point on I felt like if beating them with a hammer was what it took to make up a Kearney correctly then they may not be the best product to use, at least on large High current wires.
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