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Old 10-10-2018, 07:21 PM   #21
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I am one of those "Certified Installers" you speak of Hack....

On some of the installations I may be back to back of a panel and on some I can be over 100' away from the panel. I typically will offer a customer a few options, one of which is to essentially future proof it by pulling in to max it out. Then it is just a matter of setting the dip switches and changing a breaker at a later date.

But a lot of the people buying the cars never calculated the cost of the electrical installation, so they tend to go cheap.

What we have to do as a certified installer:

We must perform a load calculation.
We have to take pictures of the work done, multiple pictures of different items they spec. out.
We are required to pull a permit.
We then have some paperwork, well it is all digital, that we fill out. All of this gets uploaded to Tesla for their records.

It actually can put you at a disadvantage bidding against other EC's. I am always more expensive, even going against other guys that charge on the high end. The stuff they want takes time, that all gets factored into it.

The bonus is you get free warm ready to go leads from Tesla. Some can turn into nice projects.
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:35 PM   #22
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I applied twice to become a certified installer, I never heard a thing from them either time. I am both qualified and handsome, so there is no reason why they wouldn’t want me

After that, I vowed to take as much work from their installers as I can!
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:37 PM   #23
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I became certified in a weird way. I went out to a service call where a certified installer had screwed up the installation. The HO was livid and wanted me to talk to the Tesla people.

I got on the phone with them, emailed them my findings and a bunch of pictures. They ended up calling me back and getting me certified.

I think they try to keep the number of installers small in each location, so they can feed them decent leads on a regular basis. But... I don't really know!
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:23 PM   #24
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What are you guy’s using for a disconnect for the Wall Connector?
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:26 PM   #25
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What are you guy’s using for a disconnect for the Wall Connector?
A disconnect.
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:30 PM   #26
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I watched a Tesla drive by last week. First one ever. Around here we use real cars.
I also prefer a gas car, stick shift. But hate to tell you, that Tesla you saw would probably beat any gas muscle car you put against it in a race.
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:43 PM   #27
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A disconnect.
Thanks
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:10 PM   #28
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Mikey will help me.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:24 PM   #29
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I use either a 60a or a 100a fuseless disconnect. I do not use anything in particular on a regular basis. Kind of depends upon the space I have available.

Actually, I tend to use the knife blade type disconnects. It makes perfect sense to people, plus the dumb things have on/off stickers. Not the prettiest things to use, but people always are like "Wow, that looks cool". Like they have their own industrial set up or something.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:42 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switched View Post
I use either a 60a or a 100a fuseless disconnect. I do not use anything in particular on a regular basis. Kind of depends upon the space I have available.

Actually, I tend to use the knife blade type disconnects. It makes perfect sense to people, plus the dumb things have on/off stickers. Not the prettiest things to use, but people always are like "Wow, that looks cool". Like they have their own industrial set up or something.
Over here my location anything over 60 amp or above 240 volts it must have a local disconnect switch unless it is right under the load centre.

I get couple charger that set up to work on 240 volts line to netural or 400 volts phase to phase ( if I get lucky enough to get couple three phase verison )

Right now I have one location which it do have 480 delta but yes I can make it run in Wye set up so I can use 277 volts for charger. otherwise I can get a single phase transformer 240/480 volts may do it too.

I am pretty sure it did mention pretty clear in NEC about the disconnect requirement.
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Old 10-11-2018, 03:50 AM   #31
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Two pole 100 amp rated breaker enclosure, 2 pole 100 amp breaker, when the circuit feed point is not within sight of the charger unit. If it is in sight and not more then 50 foot away, then just the one breaker in the panel is suffice. I should just use a heavy duty safety switch setup, the blades on those are way superior to the breaker can's little bity stab in busbars. Just the looks throw me off though, it's kinda crappy looking for most garages. Most rich guy's don't wan't em at least in my experience.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:04 AM   #32
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Its an SAE standard for the vehicle connector. SAE J1722 with standard 24 foot cord (max 25 ft per NEC). Can supply Level 1 AND Level 2 chargers.

The battery charger is onboard the vehicle. The EV supply control box has the interlock and safety protection so that the terminals are dead until it is connected to the EV vehicle.

The power supply depends on manufacturer but shall be per NEC 625.42. Over 60 amps gets a disconnect per 645.43.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:32 AM   #33
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Two pole 100 amp rated breaker enclosure, 2 pole 100 amp breaker, when the circuit feed point is not within sight of the charger unit. If it is in sight and not more then 50 foot away, then just the one breaker in the panel is suffice. I should just use a heavy duty safety switch setup, the blades on those are way superior to the breaker can's little bity stab in busbars. Just the looks throw me off though, it's kinda crappy looking for most garages. Most rich guy's don't wan't em at least in my experience.
I have always used the same 100A disco that I use when I need one for a service. I was wondering if you found a cheap $16 100A AC disco

As for not needing a disco when it's near the panel, I never thought of that. Do you know the code article that would make that exception?
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:44 AM   #34
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Per 645.43 the disconnect has to be readily accessible from the EV equipment. So the panel could could serve as a disconnect....but the breaker has to be lockable in the open position.

Will AHJ buy the add on breaker lock doohickey?
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:44 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Per 645.43 the disconnect has to be readily accessible from the EV equipment. So the panel could could serve as a disconnect....but the breaker has to be lockable in the open position.

Will AHJ buy the add on breaker lock doohickey?

This is another great example of how the CMP's screw up the code book. I have some ev chargers mounted within 3 feet of the source electrical panel in garages. They are in a direct line of sight. They are adjacent. You can reach over with one hand and de-energize the circuit source to the ev charger , and lovingly pet and stroke the charger simultaneously with your other hand, much like you could do with that blonde babe you keep around with the leather neck collar and leash.
It's no wonder I never bother to go get a permit for an ev charger install.
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:50 PM   #36
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Read about 50% figured I'd chime in. The Teslas computer slowly ramps up charge rate when its plugged in. If it can charge up to 72A, but the plug is lets say 50A, it will detect it, and ****** its charge intake to match the plug. If memory serves right. You can also manually set the amount of charge you want it, but it will always go through its charge and test cycle to ensure their isnt any dangerous situations.
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