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Old 10-29-2016, 01:11 PM   #1
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Default Minarik drives

I had a bit of an issue hooking up a minarik 23001C board on a farm fans 420J grain dryer. The motor that it controls is a 3/4 hp 200v D.C. Motor with a shunt field winding wired in series with the board. It controls the meter rolls. The thing is it was working fine until I went back to calibrate it and now it is looking like the the board is bad. I have 220 volts D.C. Across the field winding terminals which makes me think this way. I talked to a GSI dealer and they gave us the replacement board saying older style is no longer available but there was a controversy with another GSI dealer saying board is not right board should have been DO3-0854 but were able to get it to work, but that was with the motor not connected to the load. Wondering if anyone is familiar with this set-up as it is my first go around with it. By the way old board was blowing the fuse on L2 supplying power to it, and now fuse remains good.


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Old 10-29-2016, 01:17 PM   #2
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First pic is of new drive info.
Second is old board.
Third is new board


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Old 10-29-2016, 09:34 PM   #3
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Family Guy;
According to the Minarik manual, you can get 100 volt or 200 volt field power, depending on how you connect it. Does the 420J have any kind of speed control other than the Pot?
By the way, my GSI info shows that Part # D03-0854 is the Minarik 2300 board.
A D03-0104-3/4 drive will also work on a J series dryer. I have installed many as replacements and retrofits.

My phone is 402 795-5825 if you need any more help.
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:52 PM   #4
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Family Guy;

According to the Minarik manual, you can get 100 volt or 200 volt field power, depending on how you connect it. Does the 420J have any kind of speed control other than the Pot?

By the way, my GSI info shows that Part # D03-0854 is the Minarik 2300 board.

A D03-0104-3/4 drive will also work on a J series dryer. I have installed many as replacements and retrofits.



My phone is 402 795-5825 if you need any more help.


The pot is the only speed control.
Does the 220 volt field voltage sound like it is a bad board? The field winding is connected in series for 200volt.
The switch sw502 is set to 180. I am thinking this is the output to the field winding.
There is also no voltage between a1 and a2 so it is not looking good for the board.
Been thinking today and there is a possibility I got the wiper for the pot on the wrong place on the board. Whether it s1 or s3, but it was working before we connected it to load. Do you think this would cause the board to fail?
The customer is going to get a new board tomorrow and we are going to try it again.


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Old 10-29-2016, 10:49 PM   #5
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200 volt sounds reasonable for field voltage. Sw502 is for max Armature voltage (180 Vdc).
Usually incorrectly connecting pot wires does not destroy a drive, as long as they did not touch ground.
Is this still wired so that the SCR contactor opens the Motor lead connections? Most drives do not like this, so it should be wired to drop 230 VAC to the drive input. I have a J rewire drawing I could send.

You may also ask GSI tech support. They are more up to date on the latest replacements.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:13 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by jcaden View Post
200 volt sounds reasonable for field voltage. Sw502 is for max Armature voltage (180 Vdc).
Usually incorrectly connecting pot wires does not destroy a drive, as long as they did not touch ground.
Is this still wired so that the SCR contactor opens the Motor lead connections? Most drives do not like this, so it should be wired to drop 230 VAC to the drive input. I have a J rewire drawing I could send.

You may also ask GSI tech support. They are more up to date on the latest replacements.


I am unable to say for sure whether the contractor (I believe to be the scr) drops the 240 volt input to the board.
It gets it's power from the load side of the unload contractor in main control panel for the dryer.
I was in contact with the GSI tech support, but being the weekend it is hard to get a hold of them. Customer has corn in the field so is pushing to get it going, and got someone to meet him at dealership.
My email is [email protected] if you could send the Rewire drawing, that would be appreciated, thanks

We wired it in the free air and then mounted the board after we verified it to work. Dryer was not running so 240volt input to board was not there, but the pot still had power, so there may have been a possibility the soldered connection could have touched ground. No fuse was blown and we still had safety circuit though.



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Old 10-30-2016, 12:57 PM   #7
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Why not just order a chassis mount DC control?
They are inexpensive and are on the shelf at most motor shops and for sure KB can over night a drive to you.
I'm a firm believer in getting rid of stuff that is not easily replaced. This seems like a perfect time to buy a new DC control.

http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variabl...s_Chassis.html
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Valdes View Post
Why not just order a chassis mount DC control?
They are inexpensive and are on the shelf at most motor shops and for sure KB can over night a drive to you.
I'm a firm believer in getting rid of stuff that is not easily replaced. This seems like a perfect time to buy a new DC control.

http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variabl...s_Chassis.html
I agree..
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