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Old 05-18-2018, 09:04 PM   #1
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Default Good evening. I need some info about fridge receptacle. Is it must be separate circui

Some home owns fridge is only 300 w. It is not big power consumption
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Old 05-18-2018, 10:56 PM   #2
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Some home owns fridge is only 300 w. It is not big power consumption
are you a licensed electrician??
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:42 PM   #3
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The rule is in Section 13.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:23 AM   #4
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your right, the fridge doesn't draw so many amps that it needs its own receptacle, but code requires it, thats politics for ya.
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:51 AM   #5
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your right, the fridge doesn't draw so many amps that it needs its own receptacle, but code requires it, thats politics for ya.
It's not politics. You could take out that little fridge and put in a power pig. I have seen 20 amp fridges.
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:49 AM   #6
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It's not politics. You could take out that little fridge and put in a power pig. I have seen 20 amp fridges.
Wow! You have seen some serious shlt. I didn't know that. Are you OK friend?
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Old 05-19-2018, 06:55 AM   #7
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The fridge is on a separate circuit because of starting amps on the compressor. They don't pull much once the compressor is running but starting is a high load at least in the older ones.

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Old 05-19-2018, 07:42 AM   #8
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The largest draw on an average refrigerator is not the compressor, it's the defroster in the freezer. Once a day, the defrost timer shuts downs the compressor and turns on the heating element to melt the ice build up. Usually the heater is in the floor of the freezer section. I've seen them as high as 1,000 watts, most are around 750 watts. A typical compressor uses less than 500 watts in a new refrigerator.
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Old 05-19-2018, 03:04 PM   #9
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The largest draw on an average refrigerator is not the compressor, it's the defroster in the freezer. Once a day, the defrost timer shuts downs the compressor and turns on the heating element to melt the ice build up. Usually the heater is in the floor of the freezer section. I've seen them as high as 1,000 watts, most are around 750 watts. A typical compressor uses less than 500 watts in a new refrigerator.
at first i thought you were trolling so i decided to look for info cause some people these days believe just about anything someone says but yeah man you taught me something for sure ^.^

From Wikipedia if anyone cares to read and broaden their understanding:

The defrost mechanism in a refrigerator heats the cooling element (evaporator coil) for a short period of time and melts the frost that has formed on it. The resulting water drains through a duct at the back of the unit. Defrosting is controlled by an electric or electronic timer: For every 6, 8, 10, 12 or 24 hours of compressor operation it turns on a defrost heater for 15 minutes to half an hour. The defrost heater, having a typical power rating of 350 W to 600 W, is mounted just below the evaporator in top- and bottom-freezer models and below and sometimes also in the middle of the evaporator in side-by-side models. It may be protected from short circuits by means of fusible links. In older refrigerators the timer ran continuously. In newer designs the timer only runs while the compressor runs, so the more the refrigerator door is closed, the less the heater will be on and the more energy will be saved. A defrost thermostat opens the heater circuit when the evaporator temperature rises above a preset temperature, 40F (5C) or more, thereby preventing excessive heating of the freezer compartment. The defrost timer is such that either the compressor or the defrost heater is on, but not both at the same time.

Inside the freezer, air is circulated by means of one or more fans. In a typical design cold air from the freezer compartment is ducted to the fresh food compartment and circulated back into the freezer compartment. Air circulation helps sublimate any ice or frost that may form on frozen items in the freezer compartment.

Instead of the traditional cooling elements being embedded in the freezer liner, auto-defrost elements are behind or beneath the liner. This allows them to be heated for short periods of time to dispose of frost without heating the contents of the freezer.

Alternatively, some systems use the hot gas in the condenser to defrost the evaporator. This is done by means of a circuit that is cross-linked by a three-way valve. The hot gas quickly heats up the evaporator and defrosts it. This system is primarily used in commercial applications such as ice-cream displays.
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Old 05-19-2018, 03:52 PM   #10
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at first i thought you were trolling so i decided to look for info ^.^
Look at the amperage on the name plate of any refrigerator and then look at the amperage of the compressor. Since the compressor shuts down during defrost, and the heater has the largest demand, the name plate rating is the amperage of the defrost heater, not the compressor nor a combination of the two. I've never seen a compressor with a larger amperage than the heater.

If the freezer section of a refrigerator has large ice or frost build up, the defrost heater needs replaced. Disconnect it and measure continuity before replacing it. If the heater tests good, then the drainage tube is clogged. Water accumulates in an evaporator pan at the bottom of the appliance. It could also be the defrost timer or heater temperature limit control.
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:03 PM   #11
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Very old refrigerators like pre-1950's did not have defrost timers and heaters.
The owner had to empty it, unplug it, and let the freezer section melt for about 12 hours. Many of them were damaged by the owner using an ice pick and accidently penetrating the refrigeration lines.
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:20 PM   #12
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Very old refrigerators like pre-1950's did not have defrost timers and heaters.
The owner had to empty it, unplug it, and let the freezer section melt for about 12 hours. Many of them were damaged by the owner using an ice pick and accidently penetrating the refrigeration lines.

And children that died getting trapped in them
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Old 05-19-2018, 06:51 PM   #13
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While all of that is true, the main reason I want my refrigerator separate is I do not want anything else being able to trip that breaker. have too much money inside.
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Old 05-19-2018, 07:59 PM   #14
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Every circuit in the kitchen has to be on its own circuit. Thats why remodels are so expensive.
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Old 05-19-2018, 11:22 PM   #15
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do you mean every circuit has to be on its own breaker
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Old 05-20-2018, 04:22 AM   #16
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2018 CEC code change on fridges. There must still be on a dedicated refrigerator circuit but you can put more than one on it. This is meant for bigger kitchens with small wine fridges etc as they do not require a dedicated circuit.
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Old 05-20-2018, 08:49 AM   #17
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2018 CEC code change on fridges. There must still be on a dedicated refrigerator circuit but you can put more than one on it. This is meant for bigger kitchens with small wine fridges etc as they do not require a dedicated circuit.
What about the kitchen fridge and a beer fridge in the basement?
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:27 AM   #18
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What about the kitchen fridge and a beer fridge in the basement?
You really need to change up that arrangement.

- You only go to the kitchen fridge 2-3 times a day
- You need to go to the beer fridge downstairs 12-24 times a day.

Move the most used fridge to the kitchen. (They actually mention that in Apendix B for 13-724(a)(ii)

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Old 05-20-2018, 10:52 AM   #19
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He needs a code book.

Here is a cheap one @99cents...
https://psknight.com/cec

'18 code book (26-652(a)) seems to suggest refrigerators. The '15 code book (26-722(a)) seems to suggest refrigerator.

They change the rule #'s, -wording also so it's all too confusing for this guy. Glad I'm retiring.

Our Standata will probably get involved...

We are still on the '15 code here 99. So I guess a fridge is a fridge is a fridge.

^^ I just blew away 15 minutes on a fine Sunday morning on this.
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:29 PM   #20
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What about the kitchen fridge and a beer fridge in the basement?
mmmmm beer
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