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Old 07-25-2019, 04:35 PM   #61
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So what do you guys down south use to enter the top of a meter base using PVC? The threaded one from hack’s pic?

If we used that one we would have to use a metal threaded nipple with a female PVC connector
Nipple and female adapter if the inspector is a by the book guy.
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Old 07-25-2019, 04:47 PM   #62
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Yes, that is done everywhere.

While it is against code for the lack of listing as explained earlier, I have never heard of someone being failed for doing it.

The PVC connector is very tight in the meter hub so I will coat it with PVC cement which softens it and deforms it to fill in any crack or crevice. It is sealed super tight.
Here there is the lack of a listing and an actual code violation so inspectors will call you on it. Rarely done though because we have the glue in meter hub available
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Old 07-25-2019, 05:03 PM   #63
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Nipple and female adapter if the inspector is a by the book guy.
I've done literally thousands of service riser across several states using PVC straight into a meter hub. I have never seen an inspector bat an eye about it. It's only here in la-la land ET where it's an issue.
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Old 07-25-2019, 05:08 PM   #64
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I've done literally thousands of service riser across several states using PVC straight into a meter hub. I have never seen an inspector bat an eye about it. It's only here in la-la land ET where it's an issue.
If a normal electrician saw a rigid nipple coming out of a meter hub with a PVC female adapter on it and then PVC glued into it, he would laugh and say that a homeowner did it. 3 points of failure instead of one. Perfect example of why the electrical code should not always be followed.
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Old 07-25-2019, 05:28 PM   #65
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PVC to PVC is fine.. It's cast aluminum hub to PVC MA that's wrong. I only use EMT... I hate PVC on a pole, the thermal expansion and contraction is hard on the meter gear.

So there 🙂
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Old 07-25-2019, 05:35 PM   #66
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PVC to PVC is fine.. It's cast aluminum hub to PVC MA that's wrong.
It's not wrong, it's very right.
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Old 07-25-2019, 05:46 PM   #67
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I use those offsets top and bottom of meter sockets regularly. Just makes the job easier. No different than putting a male adapter into the hub. I think this is just semantics really and while I think the listing should be changed, again it’s one of those things I’m not worried about. The utility locally does weatherproof seu connectors into the hubs by the thousands. Same issue (or not).
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Old 07-25-2019, 05:57 PM   #68
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I use those offsets top and bottom of meter sockets regularly. Just makes the job easier.
If you use the meter offset on the top, then you have to turn the meter hub 180 degrees to move it away from the back of the meter pan.

With the meter hub installed correctly, it sets the KO far enough back that you can come straight out of it like in my picture. No meter offset needed.
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Old 07-25-2019, 06:27 PM   #69
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I've never run PVC into a meter base, but are you other Canucks saying that you're running a PVC TA straight into the meter base without a hub??
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:42 PM   #70
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I've never run PVC into a meter base, but are you other Canucks saying that you're running a PVC TA straight into the meter base without a hub??
I have done many but always used a pvc hub that the conduit glues into. All the overhead bases I’ve used had to be done with a hub as the top hole is a big square that the hub bolts into.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:50 PM   #71
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I have done many but always used a pvc hub that the conduit glues into. All the overhead bases I’ve used had to be done with a hub as the top hole is a big square that the hub bolts into.
Yeah, all the bases I've used are designed for a hub. I believe its a matter of water ingress. Just sounded like some guys are throwing a TA with a lock nut in.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:52 PM   #72
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I've never run PVC into a meter base, but are you other Canucks saying that you're running a PVC TA straight into the meter base without a hub??
The entire subdivision I'm in has every meter base with 2 TA's in the bottom - one supply from underground distribution, and 1 out to an LB and then to the panel in the house. I've seen tons in other towns and cities all done the same way.. If it's wrong, they're all done wrong.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:55 PM   #73
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I'm fine with this as long as the pvc hub is an accessory provided by the manufacturer or I don't have to spend a bunch of time finding or waiting for the proper bolt pattern to fit my meter socket. Locally, here, the utility provides the socket. However, I'm working on a 400 amp overhead. The meter socket is a different brand than usual and they gave me a another brands hub which is fine if it bolts up. Doing rigid steel this time, so what we are arguing about doesn't matter, but for the garden variety residential service, this can be a pain. If the utility doesn't care, I don't much either.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:56 PM   #74
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The entire subdivision I'm in has every meter base with 2 TA's in the bottom - one supply from underground distribution, and 1 out to an LB and then to the panel in the house. I've seen tons in other towns and cities all done the same way.. If it's wrong, they're all done wrong.
ahh, there's the difference. I've only ever done overheads. No need for a hub on the underside of a base.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:05 PM   #75
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ahh, there's the difference. I've only ever done overheads. No need for a hub on the underside of a base.
And for an overhead I've only seen PVC on some older houses.. All newer ones in most of Alberta need to be "metallic" (see copy from Fortis Guide).

The Customer shall:
 Supply and install the meter socket(s).
 Supply and install a metallic service entrance mast complete with weather head, clevis insulator and cable. The service mast or clevis insulator complete with bolt, shall be securely fastened to the building.
Note: Screw type insulators (service knobs) will not be accepted on new or
upgraded construction.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:37 PM   #76
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Note: Screw type insulators (service knobs) will not be accepted on new or
upgraded construction.
If something hits the O/H line, they want a good part of the house to come with it
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Old 07-25-2019, 11:15 PM   #77
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Yeah you gotta build solid, none of my masts have taken a hit yet but I have confidence they're solid. Used to have an inspector that wanted us to get a ladder and stand on the panel. Quirky ass buggers..
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Old 07-25-2019, 11:33 PM   #78
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I've done literally thousands of service riser across several states using PVC straight into a meter hub. I have never seen an inspector bat an eye about it. It's only here in la-la land ET where it's an issue.
I've done it too in thee states and not been flagged.

I have however known a couple guys to get bitten for it. I'm not sure if there were other issues that caused the inspector to be so critical so I can't say more.
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:13 AM   #79
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If something hits the O/H line, they want a good part of the house to come with it
I know when a tree branch fell on my overhead service it broke the wires at the splice by the weatherhead and cracked the weatherhead. The mast never moved. Stupid tree... lol
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:26 AM   #80
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And for an overhead I've only seen PVC on some older houses.. All newer ones in most of Alberta need to be "metallic" (see copy from Fortis Guide).



The Customer shall:

 Supply and install the meter socket(s).

 Supply and install a metallic service entrance mast complete with weather head, clevis insulator and cable. The service mast or clevis insulator complete with bolt, shall be securely fastened to the building.

Note: Screw type insulators (service knobs) will not be accepted on new or

upgraded construction.
Key word being mast. PVC is acceptable if you're not using it as an attachment point, just as a raceway. Ex. On the gable end of a house (or a two story) where you're not penetrating the roofline and are using a through bolt clevis as the attachment point.

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