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Old 09-13-2019, 06:42 PM   #1
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Default Lighting Relays

I have a lighting circuit with (16) led UFO lights @100 watts each. I would like to install a Lutron casetta switch kit so all the trucks can have remotes to turn on the shops lights.

Casetta has a 600w max. I’ve wired basic heating relays for 24v/120v LV t-stats. I’m not sure what to use for a 120v lighting circuit. Any suggestions ?


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Old 09-13-2019, 06:48 PM   #2
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I believe Lutron has a device that will help with this situation. It has to be wired in line with the dimmer, I believe. I cannot remember what it is called--- old age sucks
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:28 PM   #3
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There are a number of ways I could see it working out ...

If they are all on a single circuit switched at the breaker, you could put that circuit on the contacts of a suitable relay / contactor, and turn the coil on and off with a circuit switched by a Pico.

If they are on several circuits, you might find a multi pole relay that will cover it, you might need a lighting contactor, and again the coil will be energized by the Pico.

I am not sure if there is a limit how many Picos you can pair, if you have more trucks than you can cover with a single Pico it could be an issue, but you could install the bridge and let them control it with an app ... although that's a whole other can of worms.

You could use the Vive system that Kevin E. mentioned in another thread, put relays on every light, or other lighting control system, but that would probably be overkill if this is all they want to do.
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:48 PM   #4
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Take your choice:

https://www.platt.com/search.aspx?q=...ctor+120v+coil
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:11 PM   #5
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Looks like I just need a basic single pole contactor 120V/20A


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Old 09-14-2019, 01:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splatz View Post
There are a number of ways I could see it working out ...

If they are all on a single circuit switched at the breaker, you could put that circuit on the contacts of a suitable relay / contactor, and turn the coil on and off with a circuit switched by a Pico.

If they are on several circuits, you might find a multi pole relay that will cover it, you might need a lighting contactor, and again the coil will be energized by the Pico.

I am not sure if there is a limit how many Picos you can pair, if you have more trucks than you can cover with a single Pico it could be an issue, but you could install the bridge and let them control it with an app ... although that's a whole other can of worms.

You could use the Vive system that Kevin E. mentioned in another thread, put relays on every light, or other lighting control system, but that would probably be overkill if this is all they want to do.
With lutron Caseta and vive, I believe it's 10 pico remotes to 1 switch/relay pack/dimmer OR 1 pico remote to 10 switches, relay packs/dimmers without the bridge/hub.

We have done some lighting contactors before. Some were miltiple 3 or 4 pole contactors and some are 3 pole contactors controlling a whole panel.

I would use the Vive relay with a suitable contactor/relay. The Vive is the commercial line.

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Old 09-14-2019, 01:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WronGun View Post
I have a lighting circuit with (16) led UFO lights @100 watts each. I would like to install a Lutron casetta switch kit so all the trucks can have remotes to turn on the shops lights.

Casetta has a 600w max. I’ve wired basic heating relays for 24v/120v LV t-stats. I’m not sure what to use for a 120v lighting circuit. Any suggestions ?


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How many trucks are there? You may have to install the hub/bridge for it.

Without it, there can only be 10 remotes paired to 1 switch (IIRC).

With the lutron Caseta bridge, the devices have to be within 30' radius of the bridge. Caseta maxes out at 50 devices.

Lutron Vive, using their bridge/hub, the pico remotes communicate directly with the device, and must be within 30' according to the literature.

Fun fact: you can pair the Vive motion sensors to a Caseta switch, but then you cannot use that device on the Caseta bridge. The motions only work with the Vive bridge/hub.

Edit to add: lutron makes a 16 amp rated relay pack and it supports up to 10 pico remotes (I checked the installation guide). See image for details. You may be able to forget the contactor.

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Old 09-17-2019, 07:42 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by WronGun View Post
I have a lighting circuit with (16) led UFO lights @100 watts each. I would like to install a Lutron casetta switch kit so all the trucks can have remotes to turn on the shops lights.

Casetta has a 600w max. I’ve wired basic heating relays for 24v/120v LV t-stats. I’m not sure what to use for a 120v lighting circuit. Any suggestions ?


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Hmm! Need to think about it !
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:48 AM   #9
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Hmm! Need to think about it !
Please fill out your profile.

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Old 09-17-2019, 12:37 PM   #10
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You are putting way too much thought into this. Just slap a 20 amp rated rib relay in and control the coil with the Casetta switch.
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Old 09-26-2019, 04:46 PM   #11
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You are putting way too much thought into this. Just slap a 20 amp rated rib relay in and control the coil with the Casetta switch.


This was my first thought , but the rib relays I looked at online have a low voltage side. I would need 120 on both sides.


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Old 09-26-2019, 05:47 PM   #12
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This was my first thought , but the rib relays I looked at online have a low voltage side. I would need 120 on both sides.
RIB and just about all brands have models with 120V coils.

This one you can put 24VAC, 24VDC, or 120VAC on the coil:

https://www.functionaldevices.com/downloads/datasheets/RIBT2401B.pdf
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Old 09-28-2019, 08:48 AM   #13
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Functional Devices has a good article

https://www.functionaldevices.com/ab...ontact-rating/

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What are examples of electronic ballast loads? All the new LED drivers on the market fall into the electronic ballast category. That would include the LED bulbs that you can purchase at any home improvement supplies retailer. Many AC to DC power supplies or converters may be considered a type of electronic ballast, as the electrical components used in the power supplies or converters are similar to the electronic ballast loads. A lot of different loads fall into the AC to DC converter category, so if you have any questions about the type of load you want to control with a relay and which relay to choose, please call us!
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Old 10-03-2019, 07:07 AM   #14
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I’m not that experienced with relays. I’m confused as to how this would get wired?


I have a basic lighting circuit with a line and load on a caseta.




I just want to take the flow off of the caseta switch


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Old 10-03-2019, 07:29 AM   #15
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The reason for the relay is because the Caseta switch isn't rated for 1600W. Rather than energize the lights directly, the Caseta will energize the relay coil, the lighting load will be switched by the relay contacts.

So if there's an existing switch, you'd lift the two wires from the switch terminals and connect them to the yellow and orange. That's the contacts to load connection.

The black and red wires of the Caseta switch will connect to wht/black and wht/yellow, those are the coil. Connect the white and green on the Caseta.



Cap the white-blue on the RIB (you don't have 24V) and cap the blue on the Caseta that's for three-way wiring. If you want to make it a little more complicated, you could install the Caseta as a three way and replace the existing switch with a three way, that way no change for people turning lights on and off inside, and you may be able to locate the Caseta in a position where it gets better range to the Picos in the trucks.



Then you just pair the switch and the remotes.


Now when you close the switch with the Pico, the relay coil is energized, and the NO contacts close, and the lights come on.
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Old 11-13-2019, 03:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splatz View Post
The reason for the relay is because the Caseta switch isn't rated for 1600W. Rather than energize the lights directly, the Caseta will energize the relay coil, the lighting load will be switched by the relay contacts.

So if there's an existing switch, you'd lift the two wires from the switch terminals and connect them to the yellow and orange. That's the contacts to load connection.

The black and red wires of the Caseta switch will connect to wht/black and wht/yellow, those are the coil. Connect the white and green on the Caseta.



Cap the white-blue on the RIB (you don't have 24V) and cap the blue on the Caseta that's for three-way wiring. If you want to make it a little more complicated, you could install the Caseta as a three way and replace the existing switch with a three way, that way no change for people turning lights on and off inside, and you may be able to locate the Caseta in a position where it gets better range to the Picos in the trucks.



Then you just pair the switch and the remotes.


Now when you close the switch with the Pico, the relay coil is energized, and the NO contacts close, and the lights come on.


So this doesn’t make sense to me.

All I have is a casetta switch. Line and load.

The relay has 3 wires yellow/orange/blue


I fed the relay with 120v on the inside terminal and neutral on the common.

Now I have 2 wires coming from the switch red and black.....

I have a load going to the lights and a yellow and orange on the relay.

I tried it the way you explained with no luck.

I don’t have a white/black , white/yellow.

I will post a picture shortly.


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Old 11-13-2019, 04:09 PM   #17
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Here's the link to the data sheet. https://www.functionaldevices.com/do.../RIBT2401B.pdf
I've also attached a screenshot of the data sheet.

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Old 11-13-2019, 04:12 PM   #18
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So this doesn’t make sense to me.

All I have is a casetta switch. Line and load.

The relay has 3 wires yellow/orange/blue


I fed the relay with 120v on the inside terminal and neutral on the common.

Now I have 2 wires coming from the switch red and black.....

I have a load going to the lights and a yellow and orange on the relay.

I tried it the way you explained with no luck.

I don’t have a white/black , white/yellow.


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I think you're on the right track. I've never used these relays though...

Your Caseta would feed the 120 volt control terminal.

Common would be the neutral.

Orange and yellow are your load connection.

Am I wrong? I'm pretty sure this is right.

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Old 11-13-2019, 05:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WronGun View Post
So this doesn’t make sense to me.

All I have is a casetta switch. Line and load.

The relay has 3 wires yellow/orange/blue


I fed the relay with 120v on the inside terminal and neutral on the common.

Now I have 2 wires coming from the switch red and black

Take the neutral to the RIB and the lighting loads.

Take the hot to the line side of the Casetta and to the yellow of the RIB.

Take the switch leg from the Casetta to the line side of the RIB (the 120v leg)

Take the switch leg from the lights to the orange wire on the RIB.
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Old 11-13-2019, 06:24 PM   #20
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