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Now a days I bet they made the drier right on the edge, ( cheap) lowest wattage to get the job done.
@Rich maize like the others have said it is not your issue. What happens at the next place, and the next it is a builder issue.

Oh and welcome, we can be a rough lot but we do help fellow electricians.

Cowboy
 

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"I have a 208 system, why don't I have a 240 system?"

People have devoted their lives to answering this question.
Recently new leadership asked me why, if we have 120v power...why do we not have 240V power like at "my house"...don't they add together? What's 208???

They're actually a degreed engineer. I'm feeling that twisted feeling in my gut as I stared at them and wondered how I could answer that and not sound like the a**hole that I am. I just walked out the door.
 

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Recently new leadership asked me why, if we have 120v power...why do we not have 240V power like at "my house"...don't they add together? What's 208???

They're actually a degreed engineer. I'm feeling that twisted feeling in my gut as I stared at them and wondered how I could answer that and not sound like the a**hole that I am. I just walked out the door.
The world is just full of mystery.

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The owner needs to buy a dryer that is rated 208 V or boost the voltage up

Let's just say the dryer is rated 5000 watts at 240 v. That means the Resistance = V^2/ P = 57600/5000 = 11.52 ohms

Now P (watts) = V^2 / R = 43264 / 11.52= 3756 watts. You have basically lost 1/4 the wattage at 208 V.

A simple way is to multiply the original wattage at 240v by 75% and that gets you close to the wattage at 208v..... 5000 x .75 = 3750 watts....
 

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Recently new leadership asked me why, if we have 120v power...why do we not have 240V power like at "my house"...don't they add together? What's 208???

They're actually a degreed engineer. I'm feeling that twisted feeling in my gut as I stared at them and wondered how I could answer that and not sound like the a**hole that I am. I just walked out the door.
Engineer with a degree, means they can memorize formulas and pass tests.

I used to give some pretty big BS explanations to engineers at work, and manage to keep a straight face while doing it. Except one time, electrician standing behind him started laughing as hard as you can without making any noise ... I finally lost it and started laughing too.
I just looked at the engineer and said, sorry, Kevin is making funny faces at me 😂
 

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Do they make 208V rated replacement elements?
It’d be the same element only with a lower output in watts because the voltage is lower you’d have to specify your required wattage based on your input voltage
 

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i'd like to know if OP found solution

meanwhile, to expand on other posts, see how air flow at exhaust hood compares to dryer that is working correctly
 

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Electrical contractor 37 years. Electrical inspector 2 years
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If you look at it as a heat problem, then switch to the hi heat setting which might be a medium/ high setting. The low heat setting might be a warm air fluff.
Long dry times are usually not enough air movement.
 

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End user is used to setting the dryer for a specific time, and with that time it is not getting dry. If they just let it go automatic, it will dry the clothes fine, it will just take longer. They could also just adjust their expectations on the time it takes to dry things from what they were used to before.

Most homeowners just need a little coaching when it comes to how their electrical stuff works.
 
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Because of this thread I was looking at a job that I am working on. The laundry closet has no make up air and a very tight fitting door. With the door open, the outside vent flaps are wide open but only half open when the doors are closed.
 

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Speaking of 208 volts on 240 volts appliances. What are your thoughts on this? I’m supposed to go look at installing this sometime soon. They sent me this manual. They have 208 3-phase but this inline heater seems pretty specific about wanting single phase with 240 volts. Of course it’s already been plumbed in.



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Speaking of 208 volts on 240 volts appliances. What are your thoughts on this? I’m supposed to go look at installing this sometime soon. They sent me this manual. They have 208 3-phase but this inline heater seems pretty specific about wanting single phase with 240 volts. Of course it’s already been plumbed in.



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Well it would work, but only at 75% power rating.
 

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I doubt if they'd notice, as long as it eventually heats up, I think they'd be happy.
I think people mostly do notice when 240V appliances are used on 208V supply. Bob Badger argued like you but eventually admitted it was very difficult to sear a steak on his 240V range that was supplied by a 208V source.

Will they work? Yes, but if you pay attention you will notice that along with lower range performance, clothes take longer to dry, water takes longer to heat. Like Viggmundir said,
Well it would work, but only at 75% power rating.
I think people notice a 25% reduction in power. Whether they can learn to live with it or not is different.
 

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I think people mostly do notice when 240V appliances are used on 208V supply. Bob Badger argued like you but eventually admitted it was very difficult to sear a steak on his 240V range that was supplied by a 208V source.
I find this interesting as AEP 208 stars are right at 217-220 volts around here.
 

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Because of this thread I was looking at a job that I am working on. The laundry closet has no make up air and a very tight fitting door. With the door open, the outside vent flaps are wide open but only half open when the doors are closed.
My doors are cut up 1 1/2" from floor to give air flow.
 
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