[Hefty]

3 in emt out of top of panel. Rises vertically for 25' then 90s out perpendicular to wall along ceiling. 10' from wall I need to 90 horizontal to run parallel with the wall. This will run about 550' where it will then make the same bends to get down to another panel.

Will be pulling 4 - 300s AL thhn and a #2 ground.

Im going to use 90s from vertical to horizontal at the wall. For the horizontal change I was thinking of first installing a 90 then a 24 in pull box in the straight section. This way I can at least attempt the complete pull at once. The other option would be to use just the pull box for the change in direction without the 90. I would save about $70 this way but would have to bend and push the final section and would have to use pullies for the pull rope.

How would you do it?

Thanks

 

[Ultrafault]

Buy a wire puller. You only get one body and once its shot so are you.

 

[Hefty]

Buy a wire puller. You only get one body and once its shot so are you.

We have a wire puller. I just haven't pulled that size wire through 4 90s over 500'. Is that an easy pull with a tugger?

I would like to ditch the boxes altogether and use all 90s but I need to know the pull will be successful.

 

[CopperSlave]

It shouldn't be that bad of a pull with a tugger....and the conduit is plenty big. If you are concerned with the (4) 90's, could you set the pull box up half way in the run and make it in (2) pulls?

Pull once to the pull box, pulling enough conductor to reach the panel then set up at the panel and make the 2nd pull?

 

[Awg-Dawg]

You could put this wireway in after the second 90 and pull the wire from it to the other end.

That would leave only 40ft. of conductors to push.

The wireway I used was 4ft. long so you wouldn't have to fight the wire to get it in.

 

[220/221]

I would use 45's on the the second turn from the panel. Same at the other end.

Back to back 90's can be brutal.

Back to back 90's at both ends makes it even worse.

If you can get away with the look, use 45's everywhere and cut the resistance at least in half.

 

[hardworkingstiff]

Using a good tugger, I would not install a pull box (assuming the run indeed did not exceed 360 degrees).

 

[24hrsparkey]

I would use 45's on the the second turn from the panel. Same at the other end.

Back to back 90's can be brutal.

Back to back 90's at both ends makes it even worse.

If you can get away with the look, use 45's everywhere and cut the resistance at least in half.

This.

 

[Bbsound]

I would not hesitate at all to pull 4 90s.
Although using a 45 for the direction change would be good to do if it looks ok.

 

[DIYer4Life]

Using a good tugger, I would not install a pull box (assuming the run indeed did not exceed 360 degrees).

Yup.

The tugger always wins (even if you have it jumping up and down and banging on the floor :whistling2

 

[running dummy]

The only worry I would have is if I could get a string in it. Since you were only going to use one pull box anyway then I assume you had that part figured out. If it's not going to be noticed I would duct tape all of your fittings as you pipe it and then suck a string in. Or use compression fittings...$$$$ I've pulled straight passed more than 360* a few times without problems. (Obviously through a jbox) Tugger was starting to whine at the end but just give 'er the grits and stay clear of the machine haha.

 

[KGN742003]

Aluminum wire is crazy light, should be no problem with a tugger. Like RD said, tape your fittings so you can get a string in.

 

[hardworkingstiff]

Aluminum wire is crazy light, should be no problem with a tugger.

Exactly.

 

[HawkShock]

Install one of these half way...

And stuff it full of this...

Use the tugger, one shot.

 

[Control Freak]

You should have no problem pulling with a tugger. What are u pulling with? Basket? Fingers?

Also, I never run more than 100' with out putting a pulling point. I know the code doesn't require a pulling point for any specific distance but that was how I learned to run pipe. The reasoning behind it was that most snakes are only 100'. Now before anyone jumps all over this I know they make snakes longer than that and you can also suck a drag line through using a plastic bag as a parachute and a vacuum. I am simply stating my personal preference.

 

[DIYer4Life]

You should have no problem pulling with a tugger. What are u pulling with? Basket? Fingers?

Also, I never run more than 100' with out putting a pulling point. I know the code doesn't require a pulling point for any specific distance but that was how I learned to run pipe. The reasoning behind it was that most snakes are only 100'. Now before anyone jumps all over this I know they make snakes longer than that and you can also suck a drag line through using a plastic bag as a parachute and a vacuum. I am simply stating my personal preference.

A pull point every 100' on a 600' run of 3" pipe will be a HUGE waste of money.

 

[Mshea]

I did 3 straight pulls of 750 aluminum and it took 2 tuggers for the 800 foot run and 11 guys to manage the reels and rope. So a lot longer run and heavier wire but no bends and it was a complete B I T C H to pull in.
I can't imagine the result if there was a bend in those raceways
I can tell you 2 tuggers in series it was a miracle no one lost a finger too.
I would neverpull more than 200 feet without a pull box even if I did not use it. Ever tried to pull the wire out after a pull eye, or rope broke? Try and restart a pull if it sits in the pipe for long too. Soap becomes an anchor after a few hours.
That your run has 4 quarter bends is plenty scary even for the much lighter 300 MCM.
Put me down for a pull in point every 200 feet or after 2 90's and definitely not after 4 90s. If you think a $70 box is expensive, what does a lost days work cost? Multiply by number of guys needed for the pull and the box just got to be very cheap insurance.

 

[DIYer4Life]

I did 3 straight pulls of 750 aluminum and it took 2 tuggers for the 800 foot run and 11 guys to manage the reels and rope. So a lot longer run and heavier wire but no bends and it was a complete B I T C H to pull in.
I can't imagine the result if there was a bend in those raceways
I can tell you 2 tuggers in series it was a miracle no one lost a finger too.
I would neverpull more than 200 feet without a pull box even if I did not use it. Ever tried to pull the wire out after a pull eye, or rope broke? Try and restart a pull if it sits in the pipe for long too. Soap becomes an anchor after a few hours.
That your run has 4 quarter bends is plenty scary even for the much lighter 300 MCM.
Put me down for a pull in point every 200 feet or after 2 90's and definitely not after 4 90s. If you think a $70 box is expensive, what does a lost days work cost? Multiply by number of guys needed for the pull and the box just got to be very cheap insurance.

I guess this just goes to show how different things are for different people.

One of my last union jobs was a solar job at a high school. We pulled all aluminum THHN for the underground since many of the arrays were in parking lots far from the school. I had pulls 800+ foot long of 500MCM with nothing but myself and a Greenlee super tugger on one end and a 1st year on the other end making sure the wires were coming off the reels properly. It was "NoLube" wire so we didn't use soap except on the head. Went thru like butter.

 

[360max]

Install one of these half way...

And stuff it full of this...

Use the tugger, one shot.

...X2...:thumbup:

 

[running dummy]

Ever look up the price on a 3" straight condolet?

I had multiple runs of 4" and thought this would be a good idea. If I remember right they were $400+