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Ok for those that do this for a living I am hoping this is easy. Thx. for any insight/help. Respectfully, plz. read carefully so as to not assume or draw conclusion w/o facts - this is a unique effort or application (I think). :)
SETTING = CA, residential, outdoor, 120V/15 amp line.

EXISTING = outdoor dual on/off switches in dual gang surface mount box on brick wall... one switch turns on 2 pillar lights on posts in front yard... 2nd switch operates a regular surface mount grounded dual receptacle (which we have a fountain and sm. water lights plugged into constantly). All 1/2" Sched. 40-80 conduit and watertight fittings. B/W/G 18 G solid wire used. FYI -Electricity for switches and this outlet is down the line from a builder's GFCI outlet (came w/house). The above 2 switches and box were added later and work fine and to code (or so we were told).

CHALLENGE/NEED = based on the above, how do I get constant power to a newly installed dusk/dawn light (14G b/w/g solid wire) extending off roof awning to 4' off house (to light up area in front of home yard & sidewalk near house so security cameras show more than pitch black at night!). Is there a way to get CONSTANT power to this light with existing wiring and without disrupting the operation of the setup described at beginning of this post (with outlet & 2 switches)? (FYI- I cannot pull more wire in conduit as is.) I have tried to draw power off switch box and outlet (diff. wires) and the best I can get is new light to go on ONLY when I turn on the pillar light switch for example. In other words I can operate new light only when light switch is on but not when switches are in off position. Because of this (and from my view, not an electrician!) i am thinking I need to tap into the 'hot' black BEFORE the dual switches and run a separate/new conduit to meet up with the existing receptacle to connect this new hot black to the lamp black (the ground and white should be fine as are already wire nutted to other whites/greens in receptacle box). Does all this make sense ok? Is my logic/though correct or is there an easier, faster, more efficient way please? Sincere thx. for your professional expertise and understanding. :thumbsup:
 

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There has to be a feed in the switch box, with constant power.

Also, 18 gauge for an outside outlet? Never heard of that, I'd run a 12 gauge.

I'd hire an electrician, probably cost you $150 and you won't have to do a thing! :)
 

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I pretwist and then use wire nuts. Solder pots rule.
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It's a DIY kinda job.
Call a local DIY professional.
Look under electrician in your phone book.
 

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