tools
hammer and bolster never breaks. try wide sds chisel bit about box size
hammer and bolster never breaks. try wide sds chisel bit about box size
Back box cutting
Anyone recommend any good SDS tools for this job? We have been using the Armeg kit, but the pilots keep breaking and it's a nightmare to get replacements without buying the whole tool.
Thanks, Chad
Thanks, Chad
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Fortunately the bulk of my work is in concrete block 
, so hammer and bolster is not really a viable option. SDS chisel bits are also not quick or neat enough for the purpose, but thanks for taking the time to reply
chad
, so hammer and bolster is not really a viable option. SDS chisel bits are also not quick or neat enough for the purpose, but thanks for taking the time to replychad
Not sure what you are doing, but if you are cutting block walls have you tried an angle grinder with the proper blade?
Don't know if it's the same in USA, but we use either single or double 35mm deep metal back boxes for most standard domestic outlets here, which need to be recessed, in this instance, 25mm deep into a solid concrete block wall.Not sure what you are doing, but if you are cutting block walls have you tried an angle grinder with the proper blade?
Therefore I need to be able to rapidly and accurately cut 75/75 by 25mm deep square holes into a concrete block
Good. Fast. Cheap.Therefore I need to be able to rapidly and accurately cut 75/75 by 25mm deep square holes into a concrete block
Pick any two.
Good and Fast?Good. Fast. Cheap.
Pick any two.
With a little bit of cheap
angle grinder, cut outline of box then hit with hammer and chisel or hammer drill with chisel attachment.
WEAR DUST MASK
WEAR DUST MASK
First I cut out the square outline with a 4" angle grinder with a diamond blade, like Brian said. I make an "X" in the center to help break out the pieces without chipping the outside edges. Then I drill two or four (depending on 1 or 2 gang) 1.5" holes with an SDS 1.5" core drill, to the proper depth, with a rotary hammer. This removes most of the material. You can go 2" if you have a pretty hefty rotary hammer. Then I chuck up the 1" and 1.5" SDS chisel bits to clean up the opening.
I don't use a pilot on the 1.5" core bit, I just hold the shaft in one hand while pressing that hand against the wall till it gets started.
Been using Milwaukee coring bits, they last many years.
I don't use a pilot on the 1.5" core bit, I just hold the shaft in one hand while pressing that hand against the wall till it gets started.
Been using Milwaukee coring bits, they last many years.
Thanks, but that sounds pretty dusty and time consuming, especially in concrete.First I cut out the square outline with a 4" angle grinder with a diamond blade, like Brian said. I make an "X" in the center to help break out the pieces without chipping the outside edges. Then I drill two or four (depending on 1 or 2 gang) 1.5" holes with an SDS 1.5" core drill, to the proper depth, with a rotary hammer. This removes most of the material. You can go 2" if you have a pretty hefty rotary hammer. Then I chuck up the 1" and 1.5" SDS chisel bits to clean up the opening.
I don't use a pilot on the 1.5" core bit, I just hold the shaft in one hand while pressing that hand against the wall till it gets started.
Been using Milwaukee coring bits, they last many years.
We have been using these http://www.axminster.co.uk/product....er_id=Armeg&name=&user_search=&sfile=1&jump=0
but the pilot bit breaks and is not too easy to rapidly track down a replacement. Just wondered if there were any similar, fairly dust free and fast products that anyone could recommend.
Thanks
Neat looking tool.but the pilot bit breaks and is not too easy to rapidly track down a replacement. Just wondered if there were any similar, fairly dust free and fast products that anyone could recommend.Thanks
I like how the picture shows a round hole being made and a perfectly square hole as the end result. Do they include magic dust in the kit?
As to bits... I've had great success with Bosch masonry bits and use them exclusively now. With a regular hammer drill make a pilot hole first and then use the stock bit merely as a guide? Or even a piece of rod?
Dose Bosch make an SDS bit that will chuck up into your tool?
My advice would be to call the manufacturer and order direct. If they won't do it, get one of their distributors to order a bunch for you. If this tool is really one you use a lot, call them and place a big order for a bunch of pilot bits. Quit buying 2 or 3 at a time and purchase in bulk so you won't run out!
Good advice, but was also just seeing if anyone knew of any potentially better products as well.My advice would be to call the manufacturer and order direct. If they won't do it, get one of their distributors to order a bunch for you. If this tool is really one you use a lot, call them and place a big order for a bunch of pilot bits. Quit buying 2 or 3 at a time and purchase in bulk so you won't run out!
So does the second tool have cuttung wheels that actually square up the hole with no chiseling required?
Now I'm jealous.
Now I'm jealous.
that is a neat looking tool.
I know this adds a bit of time but have you simply tried drilling the pilot hole with another sds drill the same size as the pilot bit of the tooll set and then using a simple dowel of the correct size inplace of the pilot bit in the tool to guide the cutting bit?
I know this adds a bit of time but have you simply tried drilling the pilot hole with another sds drill the same size as the pilot bit of the tooll set and then using a simple dowel of the correct size inplace of the pilot bit in the tool to guide the cutting bit?
Armeg
Use Armeg myself find the middle peg of the cutter snaps. have you tried screwix for spares.I some times use a mini grinder to cut them out, not very neat on a finished wall then use chain drilling.
Use Armeg myself find the middle peg of the cutter snaps. have you tried screwix for spares.I some times use a mini grinder to cut them out, not very neat on a finished wall then use chain drilling.
We always used to use the MkI Apprentice:laughing:
In Fair Faced concrete we used to [in the days before SDS and comb bits] use a good quality wood chisel. You got a far far neater finish in the corners. We did an 'Architects' house, bloody nightmare,bloke was a pi!!ock [like most of his profession]. All internal walls were fair faced concrete, no plastering. Had to cut in about 100 boxes:hammer: :sweatdrop: :thumbdown:
In Fair Faced concrete we used to [in the days before SDS and comb bits] use a good quality wood chisel. You got a far far neater finish in the corners. We did an 'Architects' house, bloody nightmare,bloke was a pi!!ock [like most of his profession]. All internal walls were fair faced concrete, no plastering. Had to cut in about 100 boxes:hammer: :sweatdrop: :thumbdown:
I enjoy hearing these odd to us Yanks terms for things and appreciate the efforts you make to offer translations for them. Once in a while tho......Fair Faced concrete...
re the 'back box' I am thinking another item gets attached to these with the actual device mounting to it but as 220/221 asked where/how the F do you run the wire?
how about if it is a block wall, the wall gets fished? The manufactures page does seem to show CMU wall.I enjoy hearing these odd to us Yanks terms for things and appreciate the efforts you make to offer translations for them. Once in a while tho...
re the 'back box' I am thinking another item gets attached to these with the actual device mounting to it but as 220/221 asked where/how the F do you run the wire?
Speaking of UK terms, I want to know what
is. I have never heard anything close to this or what it references to.pi!!ock
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